QA1 adjustable rear shock install on GJKHPA body cars.

[rbryant]

All,

Here is write up by Warren Hall (csxtra) on his install of '73-87 Buick Regal QA1 Dual Adjustable rear shocks on his Shadow.

This is something that I have been working with a couple of people on for a while as a cost effective way to get adjustable rear shocks for the GJKHPA body cars.
They are pretty much a perfect fit with the exception that custom bushings or spacers are needed for the top and bottom.

Warren used steel bushings but Aluminum bushings would also be perfectly fine for this application and would be easier to drill out (especially if you get the 5/8" OD bushing that needs the ID enlarged from 1/4" to 25/64" instead of the more expensive steel drill bushing.).

Note: In my experience the 3/8" ID aluminum bushings have an actual ID of ~.383" which will just barely fit a M10 bolt through them without the need for drilling (your mileage may vary).

He has also ordered my BC Coilover front kit for the car and we will be working on rear spring adjusters shortly. See my BC shocks thread for more info on the fronts.

I also want to thank Jeremy Mitchell (iTurbo) who also test fit these for me. He may have some additional pictures of his install to post here shortly.

-Rich


Content Below was given to me by Warren Hall (csxtra)

Preparing QA1 TS801 or TD801 shocks for rear mounting on GJKHPA bodies:

The TS801 and TD801 are rear shocks for 73-87 Buick Regals (including 84-87 GNs), as well as other applications. The TS801s are single-adjustable, with one knob adjusting both compression and rebound at the same time. The TD801s have two knobs that allow adjusting compression separately from rebound.

They are the correct length for the rear of the GJKHPA bodies, but they come with a T-bar mounting at the top, and a short bottom bushing, neither of which work for our application.

Out-of-the-box (next to a stock-style rear shock):


Removing the T-Bar: Using snap-ring pliers, remove one of the c-clips holding the T-Bar in place, put the T-Bar in a vise and work it out of the bushing.

T-Bar and snap ring after removal:



Now the shock has two open bushings on each end, ¾” at the top, and 5/8” at the bottom. We need to find sleeves that are 1 5/16” long and have an inner diameter of .3906 (25/64”) to mount them in the stock location using the stock M10 bolts.

Top bushing (3/4” opening): Bottom Bushing (5/8” opening):


Finding Bushings for top and bottom eyelets:


Two options:
1. If you have old stock shocks which have 5/8” OD sleeves in them, you can order a new 5/8” ID urethane bushing for the top (QA part # 9032-106 – sold by both Summit Racing and Jegs), replace the top bushing with the new one, then press your stock sleeves into the top and bottom.
2. If you don’t have these sleeves, you can get new sleeves at McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for the 5/8” and ¾” bushings. This is what the rest of this write-up will cover.

Finding suitable ¾” and 5/8” sleeves:
There are a few problems with finding sleeves that will work for our application:
1. There are no 1 5/8” long sleeves available. This can be overcome by either getting a 1 ¾” sleeve and cutting it down, or getting two shorter sleeves that add up to 1 5/8” in length.
2. The stock bolts are M10 which require at least a 3.906” (25/64”) hole to slide through.
3. McMaster Carr has no standard spacers with the correct inner diameter. They do have 3/8” ID spacers, which have a ¾” OD that can be made to work for the top eyelet, but the ID will need to be enlarged. They also have no spacers with 5/8” OD that have an ID anywhere close to the 25/64” we need.

The solution I went with for the top eyelet was to order four ¾” OD, 3/8” Screw Size Zinc-Plated Steel Unthreaded Round Spacers, two of them 7/8” long (# 92414A477 – $3.79 each) and the other two 3/4” long (# 92415A132 – $3.49 each).
I had to get a 25/64” drill bit to open up the ID a bit, but since 3/8” is so close to 25/64”, it was very easy to do.


Top eyelet and spacers before installation:



The bottom eyelet was trickier. They do have 5/8” OD spacers available, but the only ones that come in the right lengths (7/8” and ¾”), are ¼” ID (7/8” – # 92414A467 $3.11 each, ¾” – # 92415A111 - $2.91 each). Those would work if you had a drill press and a way to hold the spacers straight so you could drill them out to 25/64”.

There is another way (the way I went). McMaster Carr has 25/64” Steel Press-Fit Drill bushings with a .3906” ID and a 5/8” OD available in 5/8” (# 8491A359 - $6.41 each) and 1” (# 8491A731 - $8.26 each) lengths. I ordered 2 of each; they pressed in perfectly, and the stock bolts slid right through.

Bottom eyelet and Drill Bushings before installation:


To install the spacers/bushings, just put one in each side of the bushing and press them together in a vise. It is a good idea to run a 25/64” drill bit through the sleeves after pressing them in just to remove any burrs and make sure the bolts slide through without too much resistance.

Shock with the eyelets installed:


Compared to the ones they are replacing:




Installation is the same as the stock shocks:

[cordes]

Thanks for the info Rich. I've been wondering if anything by QA1 would work for a long time now. Good to see that it will. It also looks like there will be some great options from a little better than stock all the way to the double adjustable stuff like what Warren went with. Very nice to see.

[Vigo]

Thanks for the info. Finding/making those bushings is something i had to deal with when installing KYB AGXs (single adjustables) to the rear of my Aries. Definitely not a big hang up, especially if you can avoid doing any real work by buying $20 of bushings!

This looks like a very nice option for those who are willing to spend the money (~$500 for a pair of double adjustable qa1s).

[rbryant]

Thanks for the info. Finding/making those bushings is something i had to deal with when installing KYB AGXs (single adjustables) to the rear of my Aries. Definitely not a big hang up, especially if you can avoid doing any real work by buying $20 of bushings!

This looks like a very nice option for those who are willing to spend the money (~$500 for a pair of double adjustable qa1s).

Just think for another $700 you can get the wireless remote controlled adjustment module for them...

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1973-1977-...nt-System.html
(although it might not have been released yet) I wonder if I could adapt it to work with the front BC struts...

They go pretty high end so it is good to have the options but the single adjustables will probably be sufficient for most people at ~160 each.


The bushings for these are actually even easier than what we did for the rear BC setup on the Lbody because their original poly bushings can be reused.
They really are a great fit.

If Konis are more your ball of wax then you could do the same thing with Regal Konis although I don't know what size bushings those use.

Regal shocks are a great solution given that all of the Konis are discontinued now...

-Rich

[zin]

Neat! I've suspected that they had something that would fit... Now we just need to see if the Fox body struts (or whatever) can be adapted to the front...

Mike

[rbryant]

Neat! I've suspected that they had something that would fit... Now we just need to see if the Fox body struts (or whatever) can be adapted to the front...

Mike

I still think the BC coilovers will still be the best setup for the front.

They are valved correctly for a 4cylinder FWD car, the spindle adaptation is all worked out, the camber plates are included and already adapted, etc. Working on a QA1 setup would be starting from scratch and I don't think it would be nearly as clean. If you want dual adjustment on the struts then the ER series from BC is available so we are all set.

I just couldn't get a BC rear setup for the GJKHPA body cars that was going to cleanly bolt on. It was just an issue where most of their supported cars have a different type of shock/strut configuration so that is why I looked into the QA1s.

For the rear I am not concerned about FWD vs RWD or engine weight but in the front I would be. I am sure it could be done but I don't see a reason to do it.

Both BC and QA1 are both adjustable shocks and our front and rear suspensions are completely different suspension designs so there is really no advantage in shock brand matching.

-Rich

[shackwrrr]

Awesome. I was thinking bilstein circle track shocks. They are rebuildable and revalvable. And cheap enough to have a few pairs around. Ive revalved a few and they are really easy. The most difficult part is the nitrogen filling

[Vigo]

If Konis are more your ball of wax then you could do the same thing with Regal Konis although I don't know what size bushings those use.

If they only adjust rebound then i would have no interest. I have some k-car rear konis and the rebound-only adjustment isnt nearly as useful to me as even adjusting both compression and rebound at once would be.

[rbryant]

If they only adjust rebound then i would have no interest. I have some k-car rear konis and the rebound-only adjustment isnt nearly as useful to me as even adjusting both compression and rebound at once would be.

Plus if you have to unbolt the Konis to adjust them it becomes a real pain and not worth it.

-Rich

[Johnny]

Now...which ones for the mini van.........

[rbryant]

Now...which ones for the mini van.........

Always a minivan weirdo in the crowd...

Well just to fuel your fetish... I suggest the TS-504/TD-504

From Napaonline's description of the shocks:

Daytona rear:
Shock Compressed Length : 13.375"
Shock Extended Length : 21.500"
Shock Travel Length : 8.125"

Caravan Rear:
Shock Compressed Length : 11.75"
Shock Extended Length : 18"
Shock Travel Length : 6.25"


From the Napa info, the caravan shock is about 3.5" shorter than the car shock (someone should really verify that).

The TS-801 is 21" extended, 13.5" compressed

We need something that is either an "eyelet" or a "t-bar" mount on both ends and the 504 is the only option even close to the right length with those ends (or even one matching end)...

The TS-504 is 16.380 extended, 11" compressed

The 504 is 4.62" shorter but I assume that anyone wanting this setup on a van has already lowered it by at least an inch anyway so the shock can be shorter and not cause any problems... If it is a problem qa1 sells 1" extensions for $10-12 each.

The 504 is a double eyelet so it should come with 5/8" bushings on each end.

The 504 is a universal shock so there is no way to cross reference the 504 to other manufacturers like we could with the TS-801 (Buick Regal) shock.

-Rich

[turboshad]

This looks great Rich. Excellent work

[ShelGame]

FWIW, VW bug rear shocks work great on a lowered minivan. Not sure if there's a QA1 for the vintage bug rear end...

[shayne]

never hurts to have another shock option. are these shocks gas charged? do they say what the shock seals are made from? i know that koni uses viton seals in their rebuilds which has a very good wear resistance and a very high heat tolerance (300 f+) just wondering how well these could last in a daily driver in an area with pretty extreme conditions.

[rbryant]

never hurts to have another shock option. are these shocks gas charged? do they say what the shock seals are made from? i know that koni uses viton seals in their rebuilds which has a very good wear resistance and a very high heat tolerance (300 f+) just wondering how well these could last in a daily driver in an area with pretty extreme conditions.

http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/d...nd-struts.html

Stock Mount Shocks and Struts
QA1 Stock Mount Shocks and Struts
A stock mount shock is what you’re looking for if you have a stock vehicle that has not had any alterations to the original suspension. Front and rear applications are available in non-adjustable, single adjustable, double adjustable and drag race specific valving options. Check out our vehicle search to see the products available for your ride.

Aluminum Shocks for High Performance
• American made and manufactured in Lakeville, MN
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• Machined aluminum body for unmatched durability, easy maintenance and show quality appearance
• Three step sealing system eliminates seal drag and dirt intrusion
• Revalveable and rebuildable

[Ondonti]

Now how about a Qa1 insert for the front....
I was already planning on a set of Qa1's but not for standard suspension in the rear.

[rbryant]

Now how about a Qa1 insert for the front....
I was already planning on a set of Qa1's but not for standard suspension in the rear.

Why would you want to mess with the fronts?

We have BC fronts and also have the option of Koni inserts for the fronts. There is no reason that front and rear brands have to match.

QA1s offerings are mostly muscle car shocks and circle track shocks. The Regal shocks are great for the GJKHPA cars but fronts would take a ton more work and we already have good options. Even the Fox body mustang struts would be a lot of work and they start out 2.5" too long so lengths would not be a great match.

-Rich

[Ondonti]

Why would you want to mess with the fronts?

We have BC fronts and also have the option of Koni inserts for the fronts. There is no reason that front and rear brands have to match.

QA1s offerings are mostly muscle car shocks and circle track shocks. The Regal shocks are great for the GJKHPA cars but fronts would take a ton more work and we already have good options. Even the Fox body mustang struts would be a lot of work and they start out 2.5" too long so lengths would not be a great match.

-Rich

That BC website is a wreck when it comes too applications. Not everyone has an L body or neon. Being able to buy things for a car you don't own is not an answer.
the only fronts on there are "ER" 1900 dollars and I can't understand the need for 99.995% of people. Not sure who is selling inserts.

[rbryant]

That BC website is a wreck when it comes too applications. Not everyone has an L body or neon. Being able to buy things for a car you don't own is not an answer.
the only fronts on there are "ER" 1900 dollars and I can't understand the need for 99.995% of people. Not sure who is selling inserts.

Yea the BC website could use some work in that regard. It would be nice to see pictures of every application but they are generally more busy taking orders.

They have the pdf of all applications: http://bcracing-na.com/downloads/BC_...ATION_LIST.pdf

All of the applications that they have are also listed in the ordering drop downs on my site. Almost everything is available in BR and then less in RAM and even less in ER.

-Rich

[iTurbo]

I'm also doing this on one of my cars. My '87 Shelby CSX chassis is getting overhauled and I'm using the BC coil over kit that Rich (and others) have been developing. The fronts are getting the BC Racing "BR" adjustable coil-overs, but the rears are getting the single adjustable QA1 TS-801 shocks discussed in this thread. I've finally had time to retrofit them for use on my CSX so I thought I would take some pics and do a write-up to help anybody else out that is considering doing this to their car.

OK, here is a picture of the QA1 TS-801 shock as delivered. It includes a small bag of hardware that includes two metal sleeves, two bolts, and two nylock nuts. Just so you know, you won't be using any of the included hardware.

Attachment 34919

First, thanks to Rich for letting me know about the TS-801 shocks as they are a high quality shock that is adjustable and doesn't require much to adapt to our cars. Finding something like this already off-the-shelf takes a lot of time and research. The TS-801 are also available in non-adjustable versions (TN-801) and double adjustable version (TD-801). I ordered mine through Summit Racing and had them in no time. Here are some dimensions I measured off the TS-801 and a stock replacement shock. As you can see, they are very close to the stock shocks in both compressed and extended lengths.

Monroe OEM replacment shock lengths:
compressed: 13.250"
extended: 21.375"

QA1 TS-801:
compressed: 13.500"
extended: 21.000"

Attachment 34933 Attachment 34934

The TS801 will not install on our cars out-of-the-box because the bushings/sleeves on both the top and bottom are not setup correctly. First we will address adapting the bottom as it is easier. The TS801 comes with the correct polyurethane bushing installed on the lower shock eyelet, but the included metal sleeves are not the right size. All that needs to be done is to remove the OEM metal sleeves from your old shocks. You will need all four OEM metal sleeves (top and bottom) so go ahead and press them out if you have a press. Or you can do like I did and use a bench vise and some deep sockets. In the picture, I used a 11/16" deep socket as the reciever and a 3/8" deep socket to press the sleeve out.

Attachment 34920


After you get them pressed out, you should clean them off with a wire wheel and they'll look like this.

Attachment 34921

Next we can go ahead and press the OEM metal sleeves into the TS801 bottom eyelets. All I used was a bench vise and the 11/16" deep socket.

Attachment 34923 Attachment 34924

The top is a little more complicated. It has a large steel T-bar that is secured into the top eyelet with large snap rings on each side. First we have to remove the snap rings that secure the T-bar into the top eyelet.

Attachment 34930 Attachment 34931 Attachment 34925

Then, using a bench vise and a 13/16" deep socket as a reciever, I press the T-bar out.

Attachment 34926

Now only the poly bushing remains in the top eyelet. The problem is that the ID is 3/4" and that's too big for our 5/8" OD OEM metal sleeves. So we also gotta press the poly bushing out of the top eyelet and replace it with a 5/8" ID version from QA1. It's a major pain in the --- to remove this bushing in my experience. This is because the bushing has 'shoulders' that keep it from coming out of the eyelet. I ended up using a worm gear clamp from an old heater hose and squeezed/pressed it out with a bench vise. Or you could just cut the bushing apart to get it out since you will not be reusing it anyway.

Attachment 34927

For the next step, you'll need a couple of new polyurethane bushings from QA1 in order to work with the OEM metal sleeves you pressed out of your old shocks. These were in stock at Summit Racing as well for about $7 each. The QA1 part number is 9032-106. The bottom shock eyelet already has this correct poly bushing installed but you'll need to replace the poly bushing that the TS801 comes with in the top eyelet with these ones.

Attachment 34922


After the 3/4" ID poly bushing is pressed out, you can press the 5/8" ID version back in it's place in the top eyelet. Now we can press the OEM metal sleeve in just like on the lower eyelet.

Attachment 34928 Attachment 34929

Now that the bushing/sleeve issue has been addressed, the TS801 should have no problem mounting onto the rear of our cars reusing the stock bolts. I have not fully installed mine yet, but in the time that I was test fitting things I noticed the top shouldn't have any issue at all with fitment and the bottom might need slight clearancing done to the rear axle shock mounting tabs since the TS801 has a larger diameter body near the bottom than an OEM shock does. The shock body does come really close and it may not need clearancing at all; just depends on how close things are when everything is installed with the car on level ground.

Here is a picture of the BC coil-over kit that I have put together so far for my '87 Shelby CSX. This is the BC Racing SRT-4 "BR" front kit, along with the adapted QA1 TS-801 adjustable shocks for the rear and BC Racing rear springs. All I need now is the SRT-4 front adapter kit and rear spring adjusters from Rich and I will be set!

Attachment 34932