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Thread: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

  1. #101
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Maybe not the Rev , speed limiter and cruise control .

  2. #102
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    yeah what he said^^^^

    you cant raise the rev limiter but you can adjust fuel and spark timing and you can fake out the O2's and you can fake out the tps and stuff like that.

    its not for all engines obviously like something that has ecu support like our turbo ecu's but for something like the 3.0L that has limited support, its pretty good.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  3. #103
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    If you move the rev limiter (and speed limiter if you want) in the SBEC you can basically do everything else in the FIC.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  4. #104
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Hmm. I might have to try this out on my 3.3/3.8 later.

  5. #105
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    cool.

    i wonder if going over all the connections for injector #6 might help the CEL.

    or swap injector 5/6 wiring to see if the problem moves with the FIC Channel thats controlling that injector....

    Brian
    Wonder where in the line I make the switch. I wish someone could tell be the definition of that injector 6 circuit fault. For all i know it's faulting all and listing one.had to troubleshoot when you don't know the probkem beyond Mr red light.

    I don't know about AEM FIC6 for nitrous. Megasquirt can pull timing on the hit. Maybe FIC8. Don't care to look it up.
    To get Lozier's car up to its original intent the rev limiter must go up. That's where all the easy power is.

    I don't think it's honest to day stock drivability remains. The tip In problem I have seeks to be a common issue. I did find an interesting explanation from an AEM tech.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  6. #106
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Wonder where in the line I make the switch. I wish someone could tell be the definition of that injector 6 circuit fault. For all i know it's faulting all and listing one.had to troubleshoot when you don't know the probkem beyond Mr red light.

    I don't know about AEM FIC6 for nitrous. Megasquirt can pull timing on the hit. Maybe FIC8. Don't care to look it up.
    To get Lozier's car up to its original intent the rev limiter must go up. That's where all the easy power is.

    I don't think it's honest to day stock drivability remains. The tip In problem I have seeks to be a common issue. I did find an interesting explanation from an AEM tech.
    i thought they had individual injector drivers and codes in your car....

    how did you get the code? key dance or scanner?

    id move pins on the SBEC. and then move pins on the FIC plug to see.

    oh i didnt realize that the tip in was that bad. is it a bog?

    does the AEM dampen the TPS signal so the stock ecu doesnt apply its accel enrichment?

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  7. #107
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    i thought they had individual injector drivers and codes in your car....

    how did you get the code? key dance or scanner?

    id move pins on the SBEC. and then move pins on the FIC plug to see.

    oh i didnt realize that the tip in was that bad. is it a bog?

    does the AEM dampen the TPS signal so the stock ecu doesnt apply its accel enrichment?

    Brian
    Scanner to get the code. It wants to give more information but then doesn't when I hit proceed. I have 6 drivers and the FIC has 6 of its own injector drivers.

    Possible there is delay in the conversion process of the Analog in and out but I wouldn't think much... It doesn't do anything anything odd when watching it on the AEM programming.
    Its a full on shake the car misfire with leanout on the wideband. Seems like a well known issue since they added an accel enrichment function on the last update they ever did.

    I can't do much right now because the walbro seems to be shorting out internally. Seems like the reason I was suffering spark blowout recently was the pump going out and both the pump and coil receiving power from the same dedicated relay. I took the coil and put it on its own relay with just the low power draw AEM and ignition came back to normal. Then blew amp AGC gold fuse on the freeway driving to work. Shorted the fuse with a wire to get to the parking lot, only melted it twice (18 guage jumper on the 10 guage wiring). Glad I had that wire just in case.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  8. #108
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    If injector power is coming from ASD as well maybe its possible that the sagging voltage on ASD circuit has something to do with your injector code.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  9. #109
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    I don't know if this has any bearing to the discussion, but my 87' 3.0l SMEC(low impedance injectors) seemingly had a max impedance on the injector circuit as well as the more obvious minimum. I tried to use injectors from a 00' dakota 3.9l on my van and the ECU killed the engine after a few seconds of running(and starting perfectly I will add) with an accompanying "power loss" light and injector code. These injectors ohmed out at 12 ohms(they are pink if it matters). To me, this means that something like the FIC needs to closely match the original injector impedance. At least for an SMEC, that is.

  10. #110
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Vigo View Post
    If injector power is coming from ASD as well maybe its possible that the sagging voltage on ASD circuit has something to do with your injector code.
    Simple feed wire slowly shorting out more.and more. Fixed. Not as much duty cycle left as I would have liked. 68% peak duty cycle stock. Not sure if i want to go 85% or 90% though my GenIII 4 hole injectors might be more tolerant. I can't remember my research there.
    Quote Originally Posted by lightbulb010 View Post
    I don't know if this has any bearing to the discussion, but my 87' 3.0l SMEC(low impedance injectors) seemingly had a max impedance on the injector circuit as well as the more obvious minimum. I tried to use injectors from a 00' dakota 3.9l on my van and the ECU killed the engine after a few seconds of running(and starting perfectly I will add) with an accompanying "power loss" light and injector code. These injectors ohmed out at 12 ohms(they are pink if it matters). To me, this means that something like the FIC needs to closely match the original injector impedance. At least for an SMEC, that is.
    I was thinking the FIC must have to spoof something. No options software wise.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  11. #111
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Been doing research on injector duty cycle as well as doing math for my fuel capacity. I made a spreadsheet to automatic populate fuel pressure per pound of boost up to 25 psi for whatever rate of gain I want to select. According to an employee at injector dynamics modern generation iii injectors ( car has 4 hole modern injectors as of a few months ago due to a failure) often have a recovery time of only 0.75 millaseconds. Older injectors often had a minimum recovery of 2.2 milliseconds and based upon old fashioned low rpm rev limits, r3comm3nded duty cycles were 80%. 0.75 millaseconds at 12,000 r.p.m is still 92 percent duty cycle and at only 6200 rpm I can go up over 95 percent duty cycle and still give recovery time for the injectors. Anything beyond that the injector will not discharge fully and add a little bit extra feel because it opens too easily.

    I tried 3:1 rate of gain on regulator which required finding a BEGI restrictor hidden inside a hose in a box of hoses and cutting that hose open when found. Must have forgot what its for.
    3:1 didnt work as I had to use all my duty cycle headroom too get back to proper mid/high 11 AFR. Was already at 92% duty on a spike at 9psi boost and was spending time at 88%. Will try for 4:1 rate of gain but that will only give me maybe 16psi before pump pressure Is too high for reliability. Was shooting for 20psi+ at stock rpm limit. So what this means is I need some 60# injectors if I increase the rev limiter or want more boost.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  12. #112
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    4:1 ratio works enough that I could raise boost but now that I am using map based enrichment m, the noise Ian the Map signal is killing me. Can't have something going from 170k pa to 149kpa. That's equivalent to pressure change of 3 psi up and down in about 0.050 seconds. Not good for fuel trims that fit higher as boost increase s. The fuel trims are all over and this must cause some very leans combustion events.

    I have reference at the end of the ported factory I take manifold. Next try is rederenced to throttle body neck on plenum. Then I will try lawnmower fuel filter as an expansion chamber/damper and last a restrictor before the lawnmower fuel filter. Also considering grounding thr FIC directly to battery in case there is some sort of backfeed? Possible since this map sensor is terrible in boost bit not otherwise. Might also have to take apart the fic inner case and zip tie map connections and check the little filter/damper it comes woth.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  13. #113
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    i wonder if some of the noise is the difference in signal ground vs power ground.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  14. #114
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    i wonder if some of the noise is the difference in signal ground vs power ground.
    How does that work. Right now the fic is grounded to the main harness ground point for the factory ECU and other wiring. The issue is mainly Rising when I hit full Boost at high RPMs over 4,500 then it gets really choppy and the fuel trims get very choppy going from let's say 24% added fuel down to 14%. I feel because I'm changing between cells which are increasing by large amounts since this is a non-turbo calibration this causes wild fluctuations in cylinder cylinder air fuel ratio. The oxygen sensor cannot pick this up because it takes an average of everything.

    That is scary which is why I think the fic needs to have a perfectly smooth map signal over anything else in order to be safe for a non turbo calibration. For a stock turbo car you are just making fine touch changes so noise means less.

    I just ran the vacuum signal to the neck of the 3.0 plenum and added a small restrictor that I got from AutoZone and also a small fuel filter after the restrictor. Response time does not seem to be delayed from watching the guage but a datalog would have told the truth. I have taken a small pull but not a full high RPM pull to test this. It was smoother up to 4500 RPMs where i had to let off. I guess I can still try to put a larger fuel filter on if I do have noise persisting. I will report when I know more. No test of ground.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  15. #115
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    If you use shielded wire for the MAP wires it should help reduce electrical noise if the noise is coming from crosstalk between wires. You could also try putting a small capacitor between the signal wire and the ground wire to "dampen" the signal. Sounds like you are thinking the fluctuations are coming from the pneumatic side of things. In that case, as RPM increases the amount of fluctuation would decrease unless the sensor is EXTREMELY sensitive. If you have access to an oscilloscope you can probe each of the MAP sensor wires to see where the noise is coming from and where it is manifesting itself. My guess is that it's coming from the ignition system. If you discover that the noise is at the same frequency as the ignition pulses try putting a choke in series with the coil or ground the MAP sensor to a better ground. If you move the ground for the MAP sensor it would be best to use the same location to ground the FIC itself so that both have the same ground reference. If the ground reference is different there will be an offset in the pressure reading.
    Last edited by lightbulb010; 07-07-2016 at 10:17 AM.

  16. #116
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by lightbulb010 View Post
    If you use shielded wire for the MAP wires it should help reduce electrical noise if the noise is coming from crosstalk between wires. You could also try putting a small capacitor between the signal wire and the ground wire to "dampen" the signal. Sounds like you are thinking the fluctuations are coming from the pneumatic side of things. In that case, as RPM increases the amount of fluctuation would decrease unless the sensor is EXTREMELY sensitive. If you have access to an oscilloscope you can probe each of the MAP sensor wires to see where the noise is coming from and where it is manifesting itself. My guess is that it's coming from the ignition system. If you discover that the noise is at the same frequency as the ignition pulses try putting a choke in series with the coil or ground the MAP sensor to a better ground. If you move the ground for the MAP sensor it would be best to use the same location to ground the FIC itself so that both have the same ground reference. If the ground reference is different there will be an offset in the pressure reading.
    I have a ground stud installed aerospace style at the stock driver frame rail common ground and I added the FIC ground to that spot. Internal map sensor so bo wires. Guess it's time for direct battery ground to avoid the coil.

    Edit, I looked and I have a large guage stereo wire going from the common ground stud to the battery. Not sure how moving the ground 6" onto the main terminal would help....???
    Last edited by Ondonti; 07-07-2016 at 06:37 PM.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  17. #117
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Is the ground stud electrically connected to the frame rail or is it isolated by something and just mounted there? Could the noise be coming through the frame? If it's not electrically connected to the frame, moving the grounds to the battery probably won't help unless the noise is coming through something else that's also connected to that stud. It might be best to try and prevent the noise entirely rather than avoid it. You could try to use a choke on the coil(or whatever the actual noise source is) the FIC power wires or both. You can find a suitable choke inside a computer power supply or you could get a power filter made for a CB radio/car stereo etc. They are usually just a little plastic box containing a choke and a capacitor. If you decide to use a power filter on the coil it would be best to remove the capacitor because it could increase dwell depending on the size of it. The choke is there to help reduce high frequency noise from things like the ignition system and injectors. The capacitor is there to smooth out spikes and low frequency noise like that which can be created by switches and relays turning on and off. If you have ever had a car stereo that thumps when you hit the brakes and whines at a pitch directly related to your engine RPM you know exactly what I'm talking about. Don't neglect the ground connections for the other systems either. Make sure the connections for the offending noise source are good ones.

    With all that I have said, it's hard to say where the fluctuation is actually coming from without directly measuring it in some way.

  18. #118
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    The sensors are kept on a separate power system (5v regulated from the sbec) with its own dedicated ground for those sensors (black with blue stripe) .

    All the power driver components have their own power feeds from the battery and dedicated ground (black with white stripe) as these create more electrical noise from switching higher current loads.

    The aem fic is reading sensors and driving injectors so I'm surprised it doesn't have more separate power/grounds for its internal systems.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    How does that work. Right now the fic is grounded to the main harness ground point for the factory ECU and other wiring. The issue is mainly Rising when I hit full Boost at high RPMs over 4,500 then it gets really choppy and the fuel trims get very choppy going from let's say 24% added fuel down to 14%. I feel because I'm changing between cells which are increasing by large amounts since this is a non-turbo calibration this causes wild fluctuations in cylinder cylinder air fuel ratio. The oxygen sensor cannot pick this up because it takes an average of everything.

    That is scary which is why I think the fic needs to have a perfectly smooth map signal over anything else in order to be safe for a non turbo calibration. For a stock turbo car you are just making fine touch changes so noise means less.

    I just ran the vacuum signal to the neck of the 3.0 plenum and added a small restrictor that I got from AutoZone and also a small fuel filter after the restrictor. Response time does not seem to be delayed from watching the guage but a datalog would have told the truth. I have taken a small pull but not a full high RPM pull to test this. It was smoother up to 4500 RPMs where i had to let off. I guess I can still try to put a larger fuel filter on if I do have noise persisting. I will report when I know more. No test of ground.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  19. #119
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    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by lightbulb010 View Post
    Is the ground stud electrically connected to the frame rail or is it isolated by something and just mounted there? Could the noise be coming through the frame? If it's not electrically connected to the frame, moving the grounds to the battery probably won't help unless the noise is coming through something else that's also connected to that stud. It might be best to try and prevent the noise entirely rather than avoid it. You could try to use a choke on the coil(or whatever the actual noise source is) the FIC power wires or both. You can find a suitable choke inside a computer power supply or you could get a power filter made for a CB radio/car stereo etc. They are usually just a little plastic box containing a choke and a capacitor. If you decide to use a power filter on the coil it would be best to remove the capacitor because it could increase dwell depending on the size of it. The choke is there to help reduce high frequency noise from things like the ignition system and injectors. The capacitor is there to smooth out spikes and low frequency noise like that which can be created by switches and relays turning on and off. If you have ever had a car stereo that thumps when you hit the brakes and whines at a pitch directly related to your engine RPM you know exactly what I'm talking about. Don't neglect the ground connections for the other systems either. Make sure the connections for the offending noise source are good ones.

    With all that I have said, it's hard to say where the fluctuation is actually coming from without directly measuring it in some way.
    You guys know more about electronics by far but factory wiring gin an sbecii car has a direct ground for almost everything ecu related on the driver fender. The only other ground is opposite fender. I
    My ground style grounds directly to the fender just like the factory screw with serrated washer. The fic has 3 ground wires and I have these tapped into one larger guage wire which leads to this common ground. I believe there are 3 ground wires only because each pin has an amperage limitation. I learned this from the megasquirt group where the megasquirt has 6 or so ground wires even on a megasquirt 2 because each pin can only hold so many amps.

    I added a 2nd restrictor near the first and a 25% larger filter chamber. I only see 3kpa movement at most up above 4600 and rock steady before that rpm.
    I don't know what this means for electronic noise.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    The sensors are kept on a separate power system (5v regulated from the sbec) with its own dedicated ground for those sensors (black with blue stripe) .

    All the power driver components have their own power feeds from the battery and dedicated ground (black with white stripe) as these create more electrical noise from switching higher current loads.

    The aem fic is reading sensors and driving injectors so I'm surprised it doesn't have more separate power/grounds for its internal systems.

    Brian
    I just bought some 60# Siemens injectors because I couldnt find any extra fuel for more than a few psi boost. Now I will set rate of gain very small. Should be fun. Betting clutch is the next weak link.4 puck with a 250k or 300k mile stock 3.0 plate
    .Btw stuck on phone still unless I visit parents. Zzzz
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  20. #120
    Garrett booster
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    177

    Re: 3.0L AEM FIC Discussion

    Glad you got it sorted out. Where do you think the fluctuations were coming from? I'm assuming they must be from the intake valves opening and as the engine revs up and sucks in more air the pressure in your intake fluctuates wildly at a high rate of speed. I can't think of where else the fluctuation would be coming from unless there was a leak somewhere. It would be interesting to see if the same fluctuation occurs with a larger intake and/or TB.

    Can't wait to see the results with the bigger injectors. I like the idea of this FIC. Almost makes me wish I hadn't already gone through the trouble of rewiring my van for the Megasquirt. Good luck!

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