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Thread: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

  1. #21
    turbo addict
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Wow, lotta work, good going.

    Quote Originally Posted by bond_bbs View Post
    And canadian tire primer is a great cheap way to rust proof something temporarily! Couple spray bombs saved me from having to re-sandblast everything..
    Under cover it might be, I'm not sure it isn't porous if something sits out in the rain, or surface stays wet.

    (For those of you thinking "why bother" if it's under cover... well... the humidity gets so bad here at times that you can WATCH clean metal rust... seriously, clean something off, leave it sitting for 2 or 3 hours and it looks duller, wipe a rag over, get red rust on it... )

    Just a FYI, some of the dollar and discount stores have got "rebranded" duplicolor spray cans for cheap, including red oxide and gray primer. It's got a paper "color my world" or something label wrapped around it.

    Another FYI, Home Hardwares have Phosphoric acid for about $6 a bottle, in the cleaning section, as "safe cleaning acid" or something like that, (I guess for descaling toilets)

    Just wondering where you're getting your other body supplies ad blasting sand though... crappy tire always seems like too much for too little to me.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  2. #22
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    I just use the cheap CT rattle can stuff to prevent the humidity and moisture from rusting stuff. It's also decent for small metal parts or plastics / vinyls too, but far from a high grade primer. I just had issues in the winter when I was sandblasting - the propane heater in our shop kept the humidity high, so I had to blast and seal everything within like 1/2 hour or the surface rust would start.

    I actually live in the Port Colborne / Wainfleet area, so I get everything from Young's Automotive. There prices are lower or at most consistent with Napa / Crappy T / mechanic shops, but I know the guys well, and they've always been good to me. I get almost all my body stuff through them - for eg. the body filler I use isn't Bondo, it's Rage filler. It's smoother than bondo to apply, dries quicker, and sands easier but comes out just as tough and the price is a little lower. I get all my paint, primers, and many of my air tools through them.

    I also love dealing with them because they have EVERYTHING in stock or next morning. Went in a got my PS pump, pulley, full 89 daytona rear disc brakes and wheel bearings, a wheel bearing for my Mazda, parts for my GFs Nissan, and they had everything in stock. I was shocked. CT always has to order shiit and then you wait.

    ---------- Post added at 01:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 PM ----------

    Also - I know many people in our area suggest Automotive Warehouse for parts, but I REFUSE to deal with them. They screwed me a few years back, and although their parts are generally a bit cheaper - the quality of their parts is barely on par with CT at least from my experience.

  3. #23
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Yeah I'm not so happy with AW parts any more. But anything I need "right now" they have. Though you get cases where they only want $10 for the exact same part CT wants $80 for... and I don't like most CT junk either.... though sometimes they have that 60% discount on a name brand part deally going on... but it usually turns out that they don't have it for my cars... PartSource is CT owned so they're no different, but I end up getting odds and ends there because there's one in walking distance when I've spread my car all over the driveway.

    My local independant guys are Collee Automotive on Dunn St in the Falls, but they have a smallish store so mostly it's an overnight order... but they can get some decent brands and made in canada and usa stuff.

    I'll have to see if I can get to Young's Automotive if I get out that way, I hate bondo too, "grew up with" something different that I can't get here.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  4. #24
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    My Steel intake manifold started rusting like crazy (along with even the aluminum in the Duster) when it sat under a car cover and tarp (missing rear lexan window).

    I sanded off the rust and used some Industrial CIC (corrosion inhibiting compound). Stopped all just exceit a few tiny spots that I didn't sand well enough but nothing serious. Really just needs another dab there.
    I wish I had a garage to work on bodywork in.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  5. #25
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Many times, a tarp can do more harm then good - on hot low humidity days, the condensation build up inside can cause some serious corrosion, and because the tarps generally block most wind and direct sunlight to the water it creates, it takes longer to dry. Watched a friends Civic rot to nothing underneath a tarp over a winter.

  6. #26
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Yah, I'm highly suspicious of tarps and covers because of that. IMO, you're better off parking it ON a tarp rather than UNDER a tarp... to stop moisture cycling off the ground. (You wanna tent it in the middle with a 2x4 so you don't get puddles under) ... it would probably be okay if you can rig it so you've sealed it from the ground and put a tarp over without touching the car, like throw 2 tires on the roof, one on the hood, one on the trunk. Tented and angled as much a poss so water runs down the inside and gets out, rather than lands on the car.

    Also I figure over winter, you're better off letting the snow bury a car you're not driving than keep on clearing it off. Water has to be wet to rust, so if you leave it in the deep freeze it's good, if you let the sun keep melting thin layers of snow and ice off it, and the cabin is like a greenhouse so it will get above air temp in the sun anyway and melt snow around it, then you'll get more rust...... for that reason I never kick the ice off my rockers either unless it's rubbing the wheel (As long as it's frozen enough to stick there it's highly unlikely that it's chemically active at the metal, it's an extra layer of protection against wet brine and slush off the road that IS chemically active)
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  7. #27
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    I think I need to do that with my Starlet.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  8. #28
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Digging up this old thread. I'm just gonna leave this here



    Hydraulic clutch and 1st of the 2 turbos is mocked and mounted.

  9. #29
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Is it wrong that all I see is that hydraulic clutch? Love to see more about that in the future. If I had that setup I would look into the hydraulic damper setup my Toyota Alltrac is putting into his car after decimating the worlds supply of rear ends and transmissions.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  10. #30
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Is it wrong that all I see is that hydraulic clutch? Love to see more about that in the future. If I had that setup I would look into the hydraulic damper setup my Toyota Alltrac is putting into his car after decimating the worlds supply of rear ends and transmissions.
    I'll take more pictures - but basically all I did was heavily modify the clutch arm, made a bracket for where the clutch cable usually runs, and found a universal pull-type clutch master and slave cylinder. The master cylinder fits under the dash neatly. I'll definitely grab a few more pictures when I get a chance.


    Finished mocking and welding stainless bracket for the second turbo today.


  11. #31
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Who makes your clutch setup?

  12. #32
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Alright - I've got the engine yanked so I can start building my headers, so I snapped a few more pictures, and to answer the questions:

    Ondonti: The top bracket is a piece of 1" square tube notched, then 2x 3/16" stainless pieces bent to make the fork mounts welded the sides. The bottom mount is the factory release arm, trimmed off and . From the release pin to center of the mounting hole is about 1 5/8".

    Karlak: The clutch setup is a Turbo's Unleashed Stage3 6-puck. Just installed it and a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel, and new factory throw out bearing.

    The clutch master/slave setup a Race Ready CNC universal pull-type setup [LINK FOR DETAILS]. The kit includes the master and slave cylinder, with the flare fittings and bleeder. It's pretty well built. Waiting to get my braided stainless line before I can fill it up and test it out.






  13. #33
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Nice fabrication work. And cool project over all.

  14. #34
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Been really busy these last few weeks. Picked up most of the parts I need to finish the project. New wiring harness, new light connectors, 3" exhaust cat and muffler, oil filter relocation stuff, an fitting, an hose, etc.

    Received my the new rad, got it mocked up and the mounts made and ready to weld and install it. The new rad is 3" thick, so I cut a small piece out of the upper rad support for the filler neck to allow me to set the rad further away from the engine.






    As well, pieced together 1 side of my turbo headers. They are 1.75" primaries into a 2.5" round 3-1 collector, which goes down to a T3 2.5" rectangular flange. Hoping to have the front side completed this week.




  15. #35
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Nice work man!. Subscribed

  16. #36
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Quote Originally Posted by spiro440 View Post
    Nice work man!. Subscribed
    Thank you! Trying to keep at it. Hoping to have it done before the end of summer.

    As for progress, received my Daytona ebrake cables, and have been fabbing the cable mounts and such (no pics of those yet). In my old pics, I had the ebrake handle mounted, but I've decided to move it forward closer to the shifter.

    As well, I have finished building the tube header for the front side of the engine. I've also started building the down pipes, and plumbing the 2x 38mm external Wastegates into the headers/downpipes. Pics soon!

  17. #37
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Pics coming soon. Everytime I post them or links to them I get 403 Forbidden / blocked from TM for 12hrs or so.

  18. #38
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)




  19. #39
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Finally got my pics posted (previous post). I have the headers, up-pipes, downpipes and external wastegates done. In the process of pulling everything apart and tig welding them all solid. I had to modify the rear bobble-strut mount to give me some space to fit the bobble strut and the 2.5" exhaust merge. Pics soon of the 2.5" merge flaring to 3" and bending down into the factory exhaust tunnel.

    I ran out of tig gas earlier, so I also pieced the rear section of exhaust together on the body. (Pics soon). A 3 bolt flange where it'll meet the downpipes, into a 3" flexjoint, high flow Magnaflow cat and muffler in the middle of the car, then over the driver side of the axle and out the tail. Once the welding is done and I have it together, the engine should be going back into the car for the last time. Still tonnes of work to do...

  20. #40
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Tis been a while, but progress has been happening. Life came up, and ended up not touching the car between July and February, so he's an update:

    The pictures were taken with my 6yr old smart phone, so a few of them are not the greatest.

    There were a few things I didn't get photographed, such as yanking the transmission off and cleaning the diff housing, resealing it and the extension housing and installing the Fidanza aluminum flywheel and my TU 6 puck clutch. Also picked up a bunch more miscellaneous parts - 10AN fittings and lines for all the oil returns.

    Had the TIG welding finished up on the headers and downpipes. Heat relieved the heck out of everything, but it all bolts together quite nicely.




    After that, took the opportunity to remake the radiator crossover tube (the pipe that sits between the V of the block and goes from the water pump to the bellhousing. Originally, I was only going to remake the block section in aluminum (you can see the end of my original redesign in the picture above). The mad scientist and I decided - with how close exhaust pieces were in this area - we should try and put the hose connection further out. So we came up with this idea:



    It routes through the block like usual, but bends down and runs between a space in the transmission casing. It bolts up using one of the bellhousing bolts and a bolt from my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder mount.

    After this was fabricated and fit, we put the engine into the car. I had previously built the body side of the exhaust system, just had to finish up the downpipe flange to mate up with the body 3" system. I had just enough room to fit a 2.5" elbow between the firewall and the rear header, which then transitions to 3" into a 3 bolt flange mating up to the body section.




    Once I had the engine in, and the turbo system all bolted up, also put my homemade oil filter relocation block on the engine:



    Over the past week, I've been piecing together the cold side of the system. Mounted the rad, intercooler, and started routing piping. Cutting, fitting and welding the aluminum together. Also had a buddy bead roll the pipe ends for me. Mocked up the filters to check for clearance and spacing and to measure how much 3" aluminum I need for the upper filter.





    And today, spent some time getting my oil filter relocation bracket installed. Mocked and checked with the sandwich plate installed. Cut and ran the -10AN lines to the block to verify header and radiator clearance. Came together quite well.




    AND finally.. I cleared some stuff out of the way, took a few steps back and grabbed this pic. Ignore the missing silicone couplers. I have them, just forgot to put them back on for the pic.

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