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Thread: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    Bond's Build Thread - Twin Turbo Shadow

    Well, since everybody has been bugging me to post this, I decided it was time to show the worl. I've put in quite a bit of progress and had meant to create one of these a long while ago, but figured I would do one big series of posts now instead.

    So here goes:

    The beginning.

    Bought the car spring of 2008, paid $300. Was advertised as a 93 "Duster" V6 and ended up actually being a 93 Shadow ES; not a problem as I prefer the Dodge crosshair grill. Already had all logos and badges stripped of it except the dash badge. Ran gorgeous. Had 4spd auto that had recently been swapped out of a Dynasty. Drove fantastic, and the exhaust the guy had on it made it sound like a small block. Was that dark green color which is quite common with the nastiest tan / fake wood interior. Fake wood?!? WTF!

    It was in decent condition - or at least it looked to be. The floor needed a bit of care, as it was starting to get soft in a few places. The rear lower fenders (dog-legs, the lowest furtherst back part of the rear fenders) were getting soft too; these always seem to rot out in Shadows. The hood was swapped from a parts car the guy had - probably a 4cyl as the hood rubs the intake plenum - but its at least in decent shape. Needs 1 small area of touch up. Spare tire well was rotted through.

    My intentions were to spend a few bucks, fix it up and use it as my daily, as my daily driver at the time - an 88 4 dr Shadow with some seriously custom bodywork - was beginning to require some immediate attention: headgasket, a bit of body work, and some general loving. After thinking about it, I decided to scrap the 4 door; it had done its job and owed me nothing. I went a bought a new car, and the
    Shadow fell by the wayside.


    Spring 2009 - The plan.

    With my parents getting sick of it sitting in our driveway, and myself not wanting to get rid of the Shadow, I finally sat down and made my plan:
    - Keep the V6
    - 5 Speed swap
    - Konis and Eibachs
    - Serious head work
    - Stripped out interior with roll cage
    - no creature comforts - stereo, ac, power windows, locks etc all ripped out
    - possible turbo
    - Full SDS EFI system with GM coilpacks
    - 3" exhaust
    - Minor body restoration
    I went through and listed all the parts (I thought) I needed, and created my shopping list with a rough budget.

    Also, since I never ended up actually scrapping the 4door, it became storage


    Summer / Fall 2009

    I began acquiring some parts. Basically, I was averaging 80+ hour work weeks and because of the ridiculous overtime my Shadow savings had been growing. I took this opportunity to gather up some of my "Go Fast" parts:
    - 2x Racespex HayateII fixed back racing buckets
    - 4x XTC 17in Rims with almost brand new 205/50ZR17 rubber
    - Full set of ProSport blackout gauges - Oil Pressure / Temp, Water Temp, Narrowband, 8K Tach, Boost / Vac.

    ( I know they're not gofast, but I get +5hp for the wheels being Chrome! )





    Summer Fall 2010

    Pulled the car out from behind our brand new built barn / shop. Went to work stripping everything. Full interior was removed, all body panels were stripped off, everything was sorted and stored accordingly. I didn't realize the extent of some of the body work required until the carpeting and all the undercoating had been stripped away. Also took the time and cut out the spare tire well flush with the floor, and roughly began sanding the floor to remove some of the heavy paint and crud that had built up.

    At this time, I also went and did some more part hunting, and ended up with:
    -2x KYB GR2
    -2x KYB Gasadjust
    -Brand new front calipers and Pads
    -16gal Summit Racing Fuel Cell - foam filled with dual -8AN feeds and sending unit
    -Airtex 280LPH inline fuel pump
    -Russel Performance Inline fuel filter
    -Mallory 30 to 100PSI AFPR with it's own bypass! This AFPR goes on the pressure side, not the return side like most.
    -Precision T3/T4 - 50trim .60ar / Stage 3 .63ar - External gated
    -Tial 50mm BOV
    -Tial 38mm Wastegate
    -DIY's MS2 v3.57 for the 3.0L
    -Grant Racing 4 spoke steering wheel w/ billet hub



    Once the entire interior was stripped clean, I went to down tearing down the engine compartment.



    Spent the summer basically tearing the entire car apart in the driveway. Removed as much as possible without turning the car into a rolling pool. Bumpers, fenders, rotten exhaust system, rotten brake and fuel lines, front brakes and lines, all engine / front end electrical, headlights, signals, tail lights, hood, etc was removed and stored. Disconnected all engine bay harnesses, and stripped down non-essential engine parts. Removed the tranny cooler / rad, grill, and TCU and ECU. Basically, prepping for bodywork and engine removal.



    Once the engine was removed, I was at a bit of a standstill. Our shop wasn't 100% completed, so I couldn't bring the car in just yet. So I began doing some other stuff. Basically removed all wiring harnesses, and stripped them clean of useless wiring. Also brought the dash in and began modifying that for all new gauges, switch bay, and MS2 mounting / wiring. I had initially planned on using much of the factory wiring harness that was there, so I was splicing into some of the factory wiring for things like the speedo, turn signal signals (the green arrows in the cluster), etc. Spent a weekend removing 18 yr old electrical tape / matte tape and re-looming.



    After the harnesses were done, I went on to the dash itself. Took the cluster I had in my parts car, cut the back out of it and made a custom plate for the front. It was made using 1/8" Plexiglass and cut using a scroll saw. It sits inside the lip of the cluster body quite well, and the bottom Status Light box was modified to screw directly over the bottom to hold it in place. At that time, I didn't have the money available to buy a new aftermarket Speedo, so I made up a simple mount to house the factory unit in the new cluster box. This will be painted with gloss black caliper paint on the backside, as that will give it a mirrored glass finish on the front.



    After the cluster had been roughed and modified, I began completely rewiring the power system to the dash. Single switch controls master power to the dash, switch for headlights, high beams, fog lights, fuel master, and horn. Made up rough plate for the switches, again using plexiglass. Since the center console was being removed, I took the power window switch out and modified it to mount where the old headlight pull switch was mounted.

    Removed the ashtray and it's mount then took the ashtray bezel and screwed it to the back plate so the gap is at least filled. Using a 1.5DIN to single DIN stereo bracket from my 4 door - again using plexiglass - I made a 3 gauge pod where the factory radio would be. Worked on pretty good. Also spent some time hand scuffing the entire dash, then vinyl painted it black




    The shop gets completed, and the cars inside. Jacked her up, and began pulling what was left of everything off. Remove dthe doors and hood, dropped the axles and tranny, k frame, front suspension, rear suspension and sway bar. Pulled all the rear brakes apart.

    At this point, I spent a few hours, and made a frame for the body to sit on. It's about 3 feet off the ground, has little 5" tires on it, and a simple steering system so I can roll the body around and do my work on it at a decent height. Also means that undercarriage works is much easier.




    I picked up a portable garage from our local Canadian Tire. This was to be used a my removable "Body Shop", so I could work on the car without worrying about rain and moisture, but not get our shop coated in dust. Pushed the door up to the rollup for the shop, and had exhaust fans blowing outside. Then the sandblasting began. Started at the front and worked my way towards the back.


    Last edited by bond_bbs; 04-29-2018 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Updating Title

  2. #2
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    This made the prep work for the floors and soft spots much easier. The car had the typical holes - parking brake cable area was rotted; about a 8inch x 12inch patch was made for the drivers footwell.




    Rear driver footwell corner was also missing and underneath the drivers seat mount had a 4x2 inch hole as well. There were a few other minor softspots that needed attention as well. Nothing some 16 gauge sheet metal cannot fix! There was also a few other spots that needed attention:

    - Inside tops of the rear shock mounts were soft



    - Upper passenger footwell was rotted through into the engine compartment / wheel well



    - Driver side wheel well seam was seperating (the shock tower and body spot welds had rotted through).



    Fast forward a bit - because bodywork and sandblasting suck! So there aren't many pictures up until after things are primered. While I was busy doing the bodywork, I put in new rockers from CrossCanada (WORST Pbody rockers EVER, btw.. Do NOT recommend CrossCanada for a Pbody), cut out chunks of rear fender, dog legs, interior, front crossmember support (the upright between the trunk latch and motor mount in front of rad), and a few other things. Also made up a quick 1/8" plate to help reinforce the front motor mount, drilled and plug welded that on.

    - Fixed Rear Quarters:



    - New rockers



    Also went ahead and mixed up some thinned down rubberized Box Liner to do the entire undercarriage of the car. Sprayed the engine compartment, front crossmember, entire under floor and interior floor from front to back, front and rear inner fenders, etc. This stuff is tough, durable, and even welding only burns off about 1" out.

    Also took the time to seal up and sandblast my block




    Sent my heads away to my local race-engine builder to have a valve job, resurfacing, mild porting / polishing, and new guides / seals put in. A few hundred bucks later, I have shiny gorgeous heads!



    The same weekend I got my heads back, I also made a trip to pick up an A543 from, ironically, a 93 Shadow. Got it for cheap, and the only issue was that the output extension housing was broken off when it was being removed. Thanks to Dr. Shred for helping me out with this part!



    Once the block was cleaned up, I primed and paint it Ford blue (Ford guy at heart ), sanded primed and painted my Valve covers to match and began reassembling the engine. Brand new:
    - MLS headgaskets
    - Water Pump (Front and Back)
    - Oil Pump
    - Alternator
    - Power Steering Pump
    - New gaskets for everything.
    - Timing belt
    - Custom water crossover pipe (Mine was rotten through)
    - 30# Ford Racing injectors



    Modified the fuel rail, and removed the FPR mount, drilled out the ends and welded in some steel 8AN hydraulic fittings I had kicking around. Worked out perfectly - threw a set of 45* AN fitting on to verify all is well.

    Once I got my heads back, got them bolted on then went to work on the intake. First, I cleaned up what I had - sandblasted lower and upper intake after sealing them up good and tight, then painted blue to match the block. Also took some time with our mill and made up some 1/2" billet aluminum plenum spacers. Began mocking everything up, and realized my issue: My plenum has an EGR port on the bottom, and evern with 1/2" spacers, wouldn't clear my thermostat housing. So, after brainstorming with the old man - we came up with this idea:



    I would hack the factory mouth off the intake, machine a piece of billet down to the ID of 60mm, OD of 70mm with an 85mm lip to have a 6 bolt flange that will have a piece of aluminum plate bolted to it for the Throttle body. The reason for going with 60mm ID:
    - I was only planning on running a 58mm TB to start with right now, it's the biggest I could go with running into even more hood clearance issues (while still having a TB on it, and I didn't want to take any more of the material from the upper plenum.

    ---------- Post added at 01:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:06 AM ----------

    Once we had it all TIGed up, I mocked up the TB, and intake, and removed any excess aluminum from the TB moutning plate. I then resanded and repainted the body of the plenum, but masked off the mouth to keep it aluminum and cleared it to help it from staining.

    Finished putting the engine back together. Heads on, gaskets, sealed, RTV all over the place , new thermostat, plugs, cap/rotor, fresh paint.. etc.. picture tells all:




    Will continue posting later on. Need to keep writing, and working on it

    Also - I should get +150hp for owning the web domain 6g72.net for my image hosting

  3. #3
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Among other things that have happened since that - built an 8 point rollcage, and box-linered it black. Bent in my shop out of 1 5/8" .134 tubing. My old man builds 7.50 certified drag chassises, so we have this stock and a mandrel bender in house.


    Built the mounts, and mounted my intercooler. It also



    Rebuild my gauge cluster - had an incident with the piece of plexiglass, and ended up breaking it. Decided a piece of 16guage sheet metal would be better. While I was doing this, I had gotten a new Autometer metric speedometer.


    Also took the time to finish wiring the dash, and completely rewiring the entire car. Brakes, signals, flashers, headlights, everything from tip to toe is completely my wiring. Very few wires running through the compartment. I'm using the factory fuse block, and my MS2 will be mounted directly behind it (shielded, of course). I rerouted and changed fuse locations, but other than that, it works fantastic!



    Took the time and modified the factory seat rails - swapped out electic seats for manual rails from my old 4 door - and mounted the seats and test fit them. Ripped apart the steering column and mounted my new steering wheel as well.



    Mounted my 5spd shifter, and build the bracket and mounted my handbrake - stolen from a Datsun 300ZX I have for parts.



    It between all this - more bodywork






    Also had to find somewhere to mount my fuel cell. Because Summit's dimensions lied (Said it was only 8.5" deep, find out it's actually 11.5" deep), I had to modify the trunk floor to mount it higher up. The factory spare tire well is about 8.5" from the trunk floor to lowest point, give or take, so my plain was to just built a sealed tunnel inside for filling. Because of the difference - and to guarantee no bottoming out the cell, I had to make this:


    Safety laws don't allow fuel systems to be inside the vehicle, so it's a solid welded sheet metal (16gauge - thicker than our body metal) box, that rises ~5.5" from the floor of the trunk, and gave me the room I needed to guarantee ground clearance. The fuel filler will now be behind the license plate, and the tunnel is solid welded to the cell containment box, and welded to the rear body. The top is removable to allow my access to my 8AN return line, sending unit, and Vent / Evap lines and breather. The top bolts on, and will be sealed with silicone glue when it's being put together for the last time. Also had to make a flange for the cell to fit the filler tube over - to actually you know, let gas into the cell :P




    Took this opportunity - more like annoyance of climbing underneath - to cut and run all my fuel lines. 8AN send and return lines, Airtex pump, inline filter. Also made custom mounting brackets for them as well, and mounted my AFPR inside the engine compartment and ran mylines.



  4. #4
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Looking good.

    Do you have any better pics of the finished intake neck? I've been considering doing something like that to one of mine as well.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  5. #5
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Wow, way too much work for me, wow, great job,

    Why a 50 trim, seems kinda small?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

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  6. #6
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Two thumbs up for bringing the body shell back to life. V6 isnt my thing but I still gotta give respect and credit where its due and it certainly is here.

    For the rocker panel skins I think there all the same whether there cross-canada, sherman ect. there all the same imported junk made from recycled soup cans. Tabco is the only company who makes decent patch panels and they dont make them for our cars.

  7. #7
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Quote Originally Posted by Vigo View Post
    Looking good.

    Do you have any better pics of the finished intake neck? I've been considering doing something like that to one of mine as well.
    I do have a few better pics kicking around, and I'll post them up later on when I get home from work.

    ---------- Post added at 07:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:51 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    Wow, way too much work for me, wow, great job,

    Why a 50 trim, seems kinda small?
    The 50 trim is a little small, but unlike most people - I'm not looking to rev this sucker to the moon. Planning on short track / autocrossing / tight road course racing, so I want instant power at any throttle position.

    Plus - my future goal is actually going to be a set of twin turbos, and when that happens I'm just going to pick up a matching 50trim and run a pair.

    ---------- Post added at 07:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by 135sohc View Post
    Two thumbs up for bringing the body shell back to life. V6 isnt my thing but I still gotta give respect and credit where its due and it certainly is here.

    For the rocker panel skins I think there all the same whether there cross-canada, sherman ect. there all the same imported junk made from recycled soup cans. Tabco is the only company who makes decent patch panels and they dont make them for our cars.
    Thanks for the props man, I do appreciate it. I know many aren't V6 people, but it's what was in the car, so I figured what the hell!

    I'm pretty sure Cross Canada bends up their own rockers - at least from what people have told me - and their measurements for the pbodies suck. Their bends weren't sharp enough, and the front straight edge wasn't long enough. Needless to say - the factory body lines are a little bit different.

    Not like it matters too match anyways as I have the factory ES body kit that I'm going to be gluing to the body once it's primered.

  8. #8
    turbo addict
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)



    awesome

  9. #9
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Cool Build! Looking forward to seeing more progress

  10. #10
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Great work! Keep us posted! I love seeing other P-bodys getting ressurected.

  11. #11
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Thanks for the comments guys, hoping to hammer up some more pictures and information later on tonight after I do some more bodywork.

  12. #12
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    I know I've been saying I'd update soon blah blah blah - well, here goes:

    When I was building my engine back in the cold weather, I discovered my water mid pipe had rotted through - varying holes of varying sizes, and couple that with how badly my waterpump had rotted, I decided to build a new intermediate pipe out of some aluminum stock I had kicking around. It's 1 single piece, with an oring groove for the waterpump. Also has an 3/8 NPT threaded bung for a fitting the heater core line into and a 90 degree outlet for the intake 180 degree hose.



    TIG welded it up, and the mounting plate actually goes on the outside of the bellhousing. Machined the rad end down with some smooth grooves so I can put a factory sized rad hose on it.


    For the beginning of this week, and periodically between then and now, I've been doing some more body work.

    Had a nice sized hole in the front lip of the hood, as well as a soft spot on the inside on the opposite side:


    Step 1: Fiberglass.. Took the air sander and ground out any rust and took all the paint / primer off that was previously on there. The fiberglass was packed in there until its gushing through the front. I used long strand kitty hair to give it the strength it needs as the hole was about 2.5" wide and about 2" tall.



    Step 2: Sanding.. and some body filler. After I had managed to get the fiberglass filed down to roughly the same contour as the lip, and ripped down the edges on the inside, I went ahead and did about a 24" section across the entire lip to blend it in nicely. Couple coats / sands / reapply of filler, and she was smooth as silk!


    While I was doing surgery to the hood, I took the opportunity to hack a large section of the inner frame out. This hood was transplanted from a 4cyl car, so the inside rubbed on the V6's plenum. This will give me the clearance I need:


    The rear hatch.. well, that's a different story. The factory hatch from the car had NO lip left at all. The only thing holding it on was the previous owners attempt at a bondo job. So, the hatch I'm using on this car is actually from my old Shadow - my 88 4 door. It never had a factory spoiler or rack, and my custom spoiler only had 4 bolts - 2 on each outer edges, so it's in decent shape. The outer lip was pitted mildly, so a little bit of filler was used to clean that up, but the inside lip was a bit rough. The edge was in 1 piece, so I didn't need to worry about maintaining / rebuilding the factory body line, which is always nice! But she definitely needed some attention. Fiberglass to the rescue!




    JUST A WARNING to Pbody owners: If your factory spoilers gaskets around the bolts aren't sealing, be prepared to get a new hatch. The drain holes are too high, and water sits in the lowest seem. Rots from the inside out, and it ain't pretty or easy to fix. Once you see paint flaking on the outside, you may as well write the hatch off unless you're really good with sheet metal, shaping, flush welding, and body filler!

    I also took the doors off the car, and finished fixing / filling the front of the new rocker panels. The Cross Canada rockers were about 3/4" too short to meet the lower front fenders, so I had to weld in some bent up sheet metal patches. So, hi-ho body filler and 40grit!




    I had to do some small pit-filling work on the windshield roofline, as well, I also had a small 3/4" x 2.5" hole on the passenger-front side of my sunroof hole. You guessed it - fiberglass, filler, and filing!


    Not sure if I posted this before - but my new gas filler home, and it smoothed out:



    After having enough of bodywork for a few days, I spent the weekend basically tearing apart, finalizing, repainting, cleaning, and rebuilding the interior. First had to strip non-permanent dash parts off, and to show how my cluster actually fits:

    See - it's just sheetmetal screwed into some homemade standoffs bolted to the factory plastic housing (that I primed black).

    I recently picked up my last 2 gauges - a Volt Meter and Fuel Level gauge (Autometer Phantom gauges), as well as a Sunpro dual gauge Pillar Pod set up. I knew it would be too big for my A-pillar section of rollcage, but I knew I would find a satisfactory place to mount it. I ended up screwing it the belly of my dash. It's nice - hidden from view (No Ricer points for me ), and I can still see them while in my driving position.


    While I was wiring them in, I took the time and set up my Fuel pump relay, wired my sending unit from the fuel cell, and wired my MS2 harness into my fuseblock and to the FP relay.


    Cleaned up and permanently mounted / wired my power window switch. It was just roughly mocked (read: duct taped) in place before.
    .
    [small]Yes, that's a zip tie with screws, but it works and won't short out the pins![/small]

    Once I began putting my interior back together, I decided it's time to modify my shifter. The factory shifter isn't exactly short, and I didn't feel like shelling out hard earned money for a shorty, so I decided to do it my damned self!



    The hole is the factory roll-pin hole, and I decided to use that as my mounting point for my new-ish shift knob (was in my daily).


    I cut the shifter shaft off at the top of the electric tape mark, drill a straight hole in bottom of the new knob, and drove a cotter pint through it. Took a little electrical tape and filled in the small gap from the shaft to the inner knob, pinned it, and she's good to go! This pic is me holding the piece I cut off next to the shifter where I roughly cut it off from to show the length I lost.


  13. #13
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Because I'm planning on priming the entire outer chassis in the next few days, I took the time and completely cleaned and finalized much of the interior. All openings are getting taped up, so it's actually one of the safest places in my shop for the stuff to be. Installed both buckets, seat belts, driver's racing harness, painted ebrake, repainted my dash, vacuumed floors of rogue sandblasting sand and bodywork dust, and did some serious wire tucking / routing under the dash. Also finished any loose ends I had for dash wiring before I bolted all back together





    Vigo - I'll get those intake pictures posted up soon. Hunting for all my detail pics of it.

  14. #14
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Did you get a weight on those seats?
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  15. #15
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Gotcha on the 50 trim.

    Again, nice work,
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  16. #16
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Did you get a weight on those seats?
    Factory seats from this car including the driver's electric controls was over 100 lbs, these 2 Racespex seats, their shipping weight was 22lbs. That's not including rails, so ready to mount we're talking probably 30lbs, maybe 35lbs total.

  17. #17
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Did you use the stock sliders?
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  18. #18
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Surrey, BC
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    64

    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Wow..impressed. Id like to think I would put in that kinda work to save my P if the time came, but you have some determination there.

    I see Canadiantire ValuePrimer

  19. #19
    Garrett booster
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Niagara Falls Canada
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    155

    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Did you use the stock sliders?
    Yup. I ditched the eletric slider for a manual one from my old 88 Shadow. The racing seats are only about 3/8" narrower than the factory, but about 4" shorter. The amount of movement from the factory slider to floor bolt holes made up the width difference, and to mount the seat to the rail - I used the factory front hole on the sliders, but bored a set of new rear holes about 3 - 4" in from the tail of the sliders. I'd have to go measure for the exact difference, but this isn't too far off.

    ---------- Post added at 08:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:02 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueShadow View Post
    Wow..impressed. Id like to think I would put in that kinda work to save my P if the time came, but you have some determination there.

    I see Canadiantire ValuePrimer
    Thanks for the comments. I love my Shadows! Have had 2, already, and would get another one!

    And canadian tire primer is a great cheap way to rust proof something temporarily! Couple spray bombs saved me from having to re-sandblast everything..

  20. #20
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Turbo224's Avatar
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    Feb 2006
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    Salt Lake
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    1,689

    Re: Bond's Build Thread (Finally)

    Cool project, keep the pictures coming

    ~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
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