Still not right - geniusses needed

[Dave]

Okay guys I shimmed the WG can wish 2 5/16" washers on each bolt, also bought 1/8" longer bolts, and it works a lot better. Boost response is noticably sooner, and it doesn't fall of anymore when bringing back 2nd gear.

Also while brake torquing at got an extra 300 RPMs and another 2psi. So it stalls now at 2,700 RPMs and 3psi. Not enough! It's gonna need atleast 3,300 and 8psi to do it for me. Hell I might even take 5psi at the same RPMs.

I just got off the phone with Cindy and verified my setup. That's what it use - T3/T04B 50 trim, S2 turbine wheel, .63 exhaust, .42 compressor with a Super 50 wheel. I don't see why she would have suggested a bad setup, I believe this will work alright once I turn the boost up.

Maybe with the boost up and the WG acting faster I will spool up quicker and maybe achieve some more balls while trying to get it up to stall.

One last thought - could my cam timing be retarded a tooth? I might have to look into an adj. sprocket.

[contraption22]

I just got off the phone with Cindy and verified my setup. That's what it use - T3/T04B 50 trim, S2 turbine wheel, .63 exhaust, .42 compressor with a Super 50 wheel. I don't see why she would have suggested a bad setup, I believe this will work alright once I turn the boost up.

Maybe with the boost up and the WG acting faster I will spool up quicker and maybe achieve some more balls while trying to get it up to stall.

One last thought - could my cam timing be retarded a tooth? I might have to look into an adj. sprocket.

I'm still confused. Where does the T04B come into this?
That looks like a Turbonetics TurboII compressor housing to me. So what you have is the dreaded "half-assed hybrid", a T04E wheel in a T3 compressor housing. This is a poor poor combination, as has been proven by several besides myself. There are bandaid fixes, and other things you can do to make spool "okay", but the fact of the matter is, you will be handicapping yourself with a poor turbo combination.

No matter what you do with your car from now on, you can always pretty much guarentee, it would run alot better with a proper turbo. Convince Cindy to let you return this turbo.

[Dave]

I'm still confused. Where does the T04B come into this?
That looks like a Turbonetics TurboII compressor housing to me. So what you have is the dreaded "half-assed hybrid", a T04E wheel in a T3 compressor housing. This is a poor poor combination, as has been proven by several besides myself. There are bandaid fixes, and other things you can do to make spool "okay", but the fact of the matter is, you will be handicapping yourself with a poor turbo combination.

No matter what you do with your car from now on, you can always pretty much guarentee, it would run alot better with a proper turbo. Convince Cindy to let you return this turbo.

If I can't get it to build anymore boost or RPMs while brake torquing I'm going to have to. For now it's fine. It's a lot smoother in the boost than the stock T3. I like it a lot, except for the slow spool and no boost while BTing.

We'll see how it goes tomorrow when I turn the boost up. I'm off to put more miles on it.

[Dave]

Cindy said I can swap for any turbo, just fine. Would the T3/T04E w/ a S2 wheel be okay?

[puppet]

That's really nice of Cindy.

[unluckyty]

Dave,
I had issues with the t3t4e .63 stage 1, in the Shelby Z with an automatic. Hard for me to brake boost it. I think a TC with a higher stall, is needed to take full advantage with these turbos. With a manual tranny they are alot easier to work with.

I think I only could get a 14.0@99.9 with it. I just could not get a good launch. sounded like a jet trying to take of at the line, though a full 3" exhaust.

Try putting back in a stock computer, and adjusting your fp back down, might make a difference, before you remove the turbo.

Greg

[turbo xtc]

Dave,
I had issues with the t3t4e .63 stage 1, in the Shelby Z with an automatic. Hard for me to brake boost it. I think a TC with a higher stall, is needed to take full advantage with these turbos. With a manual tranny they are alot easier to work with.

I think I only could get a 14.0@99.9 with it. I just could not get a good launch. sounded like a jet trying to take of at the line, though a full 3" exhaust.

Try putting back in a stock computer, and adjusting your fp back down, might make a difference, before you remove the turbo.

Greg

hard to brake boost a auto?I have never had that problem.what restrictor are you using for the waste gate i used a .20 and my boost skyrocketed so i went down to a .15 and that slowed my boost down a little then i changed to a .18 and it seems to work great for in town and on track (boost creep/spike)i boost a auto tranny and i have found out that i can use boost creep to my advantage as for brake torqueing it is harder for a standard then a auto

[unluckyty]

It's not hard to brake boost an automatic tranny , that is the advantage of an auto trannny, hard to brake boost a stock auto tranny with a large turbo.
Standard tranny just rev to 5k drop the clutch(with slicks) and go, no bb needed.
Boost control was a g-valve only.

When I switched back to a little mitsu turbo, it was a very nice combo, brake boosted great and would run 14.9 all day long on street tires at 15# of boost.

Dave I hope you get your problem fixed, get that beast back to the track, maybe well be there at the same time. Be nice to run both cars together.( the Shadow , I no longer own the Z)

turbo xtc what time did you run at the track?

Greg

[TrrboJeep]

Bryan, Does the car feel as strong as it did before with this hybrid on it, once underway? I only ask because time after time, I've seen folks step up to a larger turbo on their vehicle, only to run slower than they did with the old setup. It is a black art to get the right combination of parts to work in perfect harmony with one another. A larger turbo is one ingredient in the recipe, but as some have said, head work, (porting) larger valves, and a lot of other machining, is needed to realize the full potential. Hang in there, and don't give up, you'll get it sorted out.

[Dave]

Joel - I know I'll get everything figured out. My friend has a stock Miata and last night him and I gave it a short blast. I bb it to 3psi and let out, had him through 1st but he was right there, pull 2nd, and then the damn thing pulled real slow through it and it was stuck at 5,000! Afterwards I check my timing.... the dist. was clocked at 12*.... the other direction! Turned it again and all was fine.

Turbo XTC - Today I'm turning the boost up. If I can't get it right I'll try the restrictor. Which side of the MBC do I put it on? I'm assuming before the MBC.

Greg - That's what makes me wonder if I'll ever find the right turbo. I don't have money to port the head. Serious mods are coming this winter.

[Dave]

Okay the MBC is all the way in... 16psi. I'm running 12* base timing and it has a nasty timing rattle. I though, okay, turn the timing down and the rattle will be gone... yes, it went away, but pulled like a wimp through the gears and boosted up much slower. What's wrong with the picture here?

I know the WG can is weak, looks like I'm spending more money or trying to figure out how to get the '89 large can to work. Maybe use it and just make it threadable.

[Turbo_Rampage]

What it that brass fitting on the oil feed line thats threaded into the turbo? On my TU S.S. lines the oil feed line goes under the WG actuator arm..

The large 89 WG actuator should bolt right on,

[cordes]

Cindy said I can swap for any turbo, just fine. Would the T3/T04E w/ a S2 wheel be okay?

I would go for the super 50 trim wheel with that combo if it were me. I have a 50 trim wheel since it was what was in stock at the time. I love it compared to my halfassed hybrid. According to Mike the S50 is even better, so I don't see how you could go wrong there.

Many guys including myself have switched from the HA-hybrid and have had a lot of sucess with the T04E comp housing with a 50 or super 50 trim wheel and a S2 turbine wheel in a .63 housing.

[Dave]

My understanding is that with the bigger housings and wheels, the less boost response.

How would I gain a quicker boost response with an even larger compressor housing? Granite it's flowing more, but there is less heat and pressure, which are the two factors that increase velocity.

I should ask her for a T3/T04E 50 trim, with a Stage 2 turbine wheel in a .63 housing, with a .60 comp. housing with a Super 50 compressor wheel.... right??? With that would I be able to use my same lines? What's involved in making it fit?

[omnivore]

Is the cat plugged up? Just a thought. Would definitely cause some lazy spoolage.

[butchsuppe]

Just a suggestion, had basiclly the same problem when I made my own G-valve + forgot to drill a vent hole, boost got trapped in the can + wouldn,t shut after first boost. Check the vent on your controller.

[Tony Hanna]

Did you swap the cam? I know that there is a difference between the cams that came with the square tooth pulley and round tooth pulley. If you change them and just swap the gears the timing will look like it's on but the cam timing will be off a significant amount don't recall how much.

[Tony Hanna]

That's interesting. I'm pretty sure I didn't post that last one. John, Did I forget to sign out when I was fooling around on your computer the other day?

[87glhs232]

Did you swap the cam? I know that there is a difference between the cams that came with the square tooth pulley and round tooth pulley. If you change them and just swap the gears the timing will look like it's on but the cam timing will be off a significant amount don't recall how much.

4* adv. or retard....depending on parts used.

4* retarded if using a round tooth cam ('88 and up) with a square tooth gear. Ran it like that in my glhs for a year. Boost hit real hard at 4k. I bought a Fidanza gear and set the cam back to 0*. Better low end response, but not a total animal at 4k. When I have the time I'm gonna mess with the cam timing to look for a middle ground.

DAVE- if it skipped a tooth, you'd be 9* off, and it would let you know.

[Dave]

Cam timing "was" dead on. It was perfect.

Stock head, stock cam, stock intake, mega-ported exhaust manifold (very thin walls), open downpipe, 2.5" SV, 2.5" DP.

17psi came on at 4,600 RPMs. That's terrible.

Head is now off, T3/T04E 50 trim, S2 wheel is going on this week as soon as I get the head back from being ported.

I will make it work right.