My Masi engine build

[GLHNSLHT2]

interesting.

[2.216VTurbo]

whoa I haven't heard of a spacer plate being needed to clear the starter?? Did the 284 put the starter in a different place? How's Alan running a 523?

Yep, tin is different, I first tried to use the 284 piece and it was a no go with the bellhouse bolt holes or the starter. I just used the tin from the donor car that gave up the 523. Also the turbo on my yellow Masi is stock frame, it just has a really big(for the teeny IHI that is) '19T' compressor wheel. it spools horribly and you can hear it choke (surge right?) all the way to 4300 RPMS when it comes alive Not very driveabl and next time the turbo is off I'll put on another with a 16T wheel in it. Don't know the specs, those are just the names my turbo builder uses. unfortunately he has never been able to find a larger turbine wheel for the RB5 shaft size.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Interesting. Not sure how I feel about it but interesting considereing I have a GT30R sitting here I was going to put on mine.

[Reaper1]

It'll go on...you just have to make some concessions to do it! LOL

[turbovanman²]

It'll go on...you just have to make some concessions to do it! LOL

Gee, concessions with a turbo mopar build, nah, doesn't happen,

[Ondonti]

Yep, tin is different, I first tried to use the 284 piece and it was a no go with the bellhouse bolt holes or the starter. I just used the tin from the donor car that gave up the 523. Also the turbo on my yellow Masi is stock frame, it just has a really big(for the teeny IHI that is) '19T' compressor wheel. it spools horribly and you can hear it choke (surge right?) all the way to 4300 RPMS when it comes alive Not very driveabl and next time the turbo is off I'll put on another with a 16T wheel in it. Don't know the specs, those are just the names my turbo builder uses. unfortunately he has never been able to find a larger turbine wheel for the RB5 shaft size.

While I am not a fan of clipping, they have great results with a 10-12 degree clip and you could probably have Matt Monett make you a Titanium Aluminide turbine setup that would spool much better. Spendy but makes compressors larger then 19t's spool faster then 16t's
A single one of his DR750 Billets (tdo4 frame) with billet wheel recently supported 300+ whp on 25 pounds and pump gas. 200ft/lb @ 3100 rpms, 300ft/lb @ 3900 rpms. Probably $2000+ dollars to try to use your own turbine housing.
He came up with the turbo because so many people with 3000gt's cry about ANY lag and they also cry about changing manifolds for larger frame turbos. Of course you are probably screwed and would get no use out of anything but the compressor wheels :P In that case I would want to port the turbine housing if it was not unobtanium.

[2.216VTurbo]

While I am not a fan of clipping, they have great results with a 10-12 degree clip and you could probably have Matt Monett make you a Titanium Aluminide turbine setup that would spool much better. Spendy but makes compressors larger then 19t's spool faster then 16t's
A single one of his DR750 Billets (tdo4 frame) with billet wheel recently supported 300+ whp on 25 pounds and pump gas. 200ft/lb @ 3100 rpms, 300ft/lb @ 3900 rpms. Probably $2000+ dollars to try to use your own turbine housing.
He came up with the turbo because so many people with 3000gt's cry about ANY lag and they also cry about changing manifolds for larger frame turbos. Of course you are probably screwed and would get no use out of anything but the compressor wheels :P In that case I would want to port the turbine housing if it was not unobtanium.

I have probably 5-6 hours of porting in the turbine housing and the wheel has an 8 degree clip. It's as good as the RHB5 is gonna get I think. When I get the Rampage and Daytona RT running(they are just a couple weeks away) I think a header and relocated turbo are in order. I'm thinking something 2876-ish, I want the spool by 3500 or so and 300 WHP is enough for the old man car

[turbovanman²]

$2000, holy shitt balls,

[Reaper1]

I've been told the head can flow enough to support 1000+hp with a good port job, so 800 doesn't really surprise me.

As for the stock turbo..I'll push it as far as I can without spending too much on it. Once it either can't go any farther, or I am ready to upgrade, it will be taken off and never used on this engine again.

[GLHNSLHT2]

If I have enough clearance between the head and the firewall I have an idea. I'm crossing my fingers it works, I might throw up a mockup engine in the engine bay this weekend just to see.

[GLHNSLHT2]

So Reaper, today I tried removing the studs from my two manifolds. The two studs that aren't in blind holes came right out. The two that are in blind holes are stuck in there. I even hit the manifold with the mapp gas torch for quite a while and still no go. Since it's getting a T3 flange welded on I just hacked them off. But don't expect them to come out. Probably going to have to have a machine shop drill them out and re-tap them if you plan on using the stock setup. They're also 8x1.25mm FYI.

[Reaper1]

So Reaper, today I tried removing the studs from my two manifolds. The two studs that aren't in blind holes came right out. The two that are in blind holes are stuck in there. I even hit the manifold with the mapp gas torch for quite a while and still no go. Since it's getting a T3 flange welded on I just hacked them off. But don't expect them to come out. Probably going to have to have a machine shop drill them out and re-tap them if you plan on using the stock setup. They're also 8x1.25mm FYI.

You mean the turbo mounting studs (I'm guessing since you refer to the T3 flange)?

[GLHNSLHT2]

Oh sorry just went back and read it again. You were talking about manifold to head bolts and when you said 4 bolts I thought you were talking about turbo to manifold studs. My bad.

Found another Masi only part today. Well as far as I know. The bracket that bolts to the block and holds the passenger side motor is shaped different to clear a boss on the masi head on the front lower corner. I took a pic here: http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4386 So don't lose that part Now you can probably just grind a little clearance out of the 8v piece if you don't have that part.

Also here's how you run it without having to make an adapter http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4365

[Reaper1]

Good thing I have that mount! They did some pretty good modification as compared to the regular 8V one from what it seems. I don't know that I'd trust grinding on the 8V one to clear as the Masi version is actually formed that way and is flanged out.

Interesting way to run the turbo! I've seen that done before on some hybrid engine conversions and a TIII. Yeah, it'll clear, but for me there are a few things I don't personally like. #1 being that the turbo pressure tube going to the IC has to pretty much go over the valve cover. Technically there is nothing wrong with this, but for me, aesthetically it isn't very pleasing. #2 is that if you want to run, say, a 4" intake, there isn't a lot of room over there to do it and once again I think it would end up going over the timing belt area, plus there is A/C stuff all in the way (or at least on my car there will be).

It does solve a few problems, such as starter clearance, drainback angle, room for exhaust.

I guess at that point it comes down to what are you willing to deal with and what makes you happy. In the end I still think an over-the-transmission mounted turbo is the best solution, but then you open up a whole other can of worms! LOL

---------- Post added at 10:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------

Oh...update on me working on the engine...well, I didn't technically work on the engine itself, but peripherals. I got my remote oil filter/cooler adapters in the other week, and when I looked at them I decided they weren't finished very efficiently. There were no smooth transition radii, there were pinch points, ect. So, I broke out the Dremel and went to work on them last night. I ended up with products that make me much more happy, and should make the flowing oil much more happy as well.

[GLHNSLHT2]

The Masi mount is REALLY clearanced. The 8v mount you'd have to grind maybe .125 in just a little spot to clear the boss just to allow the head to sit totally flat. You could probably drop it on the floor and dent that corner enough on accident to clear that's how close it is.

I'm not sure if I'm going to run the compressor in that orientation. It probably could be ran like an SRT4 setup and go down behind the motor which I may or may not do. The intake tube is going to go down, loop around and come up over the tranny and go to my cold air box like I had on the 8v setup I think.

Also how are you linking pics from Facebook? I tried it yesterday and couldn't get it to work.

[GLHNSLHT2]

well disregard the last link in post #53. Not sure why I forgot I needed power steering. Working on what is needed to run the manifold in the stock orientation with a GT30R.

[Reaper1]

To link from FB, just open the pic in a separate tab, find the thing that says "copy image URL", left click it, then when you are writing your post, where you want to put the image, just click the "insert image" icon then "paste" into the URL box that comes up. That's how I do it anyway. There may be an even easier way.

BTW, if you simply try to open the picture in FB by clicking on it, you can't do this. It's VERY frustrating!!

[Reaper1]

I went and worked on the engine some more tonight. I rechecked the timing of the valvetrain with the front accessory pulley off. It was good, but the intermediate shaft is off. Something is fishy there, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

I also rechecked the leakdown in #1 and #3. That's as far as I needed to go to realize that there really are more problems than just the valves hanging open or something. So...off with the head! LOL

I methodically took off the cam caps, took pictures of them all, and the cam journals. The exhaust side looks fine. The intake side....not so much. #10 cam cap is showing some nasty wear, like debris got caught in there. There are some scuff marks on some of the other caps as well. Something isn't quite right here I think.

Oh, just for reference: the cam cap nuts are 13mm. The head bolts are 12mm 12-point. I don't know if they are factory or not. There are no markings on them at all.

I either didn't know this, or had forgotten, but the Masi uses a unique headgasket as well. It blocks off the front oil return/crankcase balance hole. It also doesn't have that rectangular section on the front where the A/C compressor is that hangs over.

Anyway, I pop the head off and it immediately becomes apparent why I'm seeing what I am on the leak-down. #1 cylinder is fragged! It looks to be from SEVERE detonation, or possibly FOD intake. Whatever it was, debris also bounced to #2 and #3, but didn't do too much superficial damage, but it could be why I'm having pressure leakage out of the intake side.

I've seen damage like this before on Mike Stimac's car and I know it was repaired. I also know I've seen this type of damage repaired on Honda heads, so it's not the end of the world, just a bit more of a delay and monetary investment to have a runner.

#1 piston is DONE. All the rest look ok, but I noticed #4 might have a bit too much wall clearance. I'll have to measure it and see what I get.

I DO have pictures of all of this, but I lost my cable to download them, so until I find it I'm screwed as far as posting them...well posting them easily.

I hope to get into the bottom end of the engine late this week, maybe this weekend.

[GLHNSLHT2]

those headbolts are stock.

You'll want a nice set of raised compression JE's anyway so the pistons are no biggie

Sucks about the damage. Can't wait to see pics.

[Reaper1]

Yeah, I was going to go with JE or Wiseco. I personally like Wiseco better, but I know JE already has the information to make the pistons because that's what Mike Stimac is running.