Are you getting spark at all or are you not getting spark where you want it? What about injector pulse? Are you getting that? If you don't have a noid light you can use a stethoscope and listen for the injectors to "click" while cranking.
A.J.
Are you getting spark at all or are you not getting spark where you want it? What about injector pulse? Are you getting that? If you don't have a noid light you can use a stethoscope and listen for the injectors to "click" while cranking.
A.J.
No spark period. Figured if I had spark, I should have injector pulse... however, I had my hand on the connector to the computer while I was cranking with the coil wire off, and it arced ONE TIME at the same time the whine in the computer quit, so I'm thinking somehow the connector to the computer isn't making proper contact with all the pins!! Of all the fu*kin problems I could have had, SUDDENLY the damn pins don't make proper contact! Not sure how to be sure that this is the problem since I couldn't reproduce the same result twice, but it seems there might be hope.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
You should have the neg. battery cable on the block, then a ground strap from the engine to the firewall and a ground from the intake to the fuel rail. I've never heard of a SMEC having an issue with bad connector at the 60 pin, and the SBEC on the 90 cars have the same type of terminals in the connector so I don't see it being a bad connection at the computer.
Ok, I determined the problem is in the computer... which really pisses me off cause it worked when I sent it in. Anyway, I took the computer out of my dd and I have spark and all the electronics work normally, but I don't have injector pulse now! I get power to the BLK/GRN wire when I'm cranking, but the injectors don't do anything!
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
What I am saying is, I'm now using the STOCK computer from my other car, and I'm getting everything but fuel. I have power AND fuel to the injectors, but they don't seem to be opening. They are SRT injectors...would that matter? I know another guy used a stock computer to get his running... Unaclocker or maybe Una in this forum.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
The computer I sent off was to be calibrated for SRT injectors. I had two cals made for this EXACT setup, SRT injectors, motor, intake, etc. and neither one fired the coil or injectors. Only progress I made solving this problem was using stock parts from the TIV car I drive every day. Therefore, the computer I sent off was smoked after I sent it off, and before I plugged it in for the first time. The TIV computer I used to diagnose the damn problem is back in my daily driver still running fine, even after being hooked up to the SRT injectors for several hours cranking away... So basically I blew over $200 for 2 cals and a socketed ecu only to be EXACTLY where I was a year ago with all my stock components. Only difference is that I didn't know I could run this setup with minor mods to my stock parts! Blew out my brand new starter and battery during this ordeal as well, so grand total of around $500 to learn that my previously functioning ecu is now bad, and I could have had a reliable vehicle a year ago WITHOUT all this damn headache!!
You can't calibrate a computer for a different impedance injector. You can only calibrate for flow. So it is possible using the wrong impedance injectors smoked your computer. It's the same reason you can't use a test light to test for injector pulse. A noid light has the correct impedance and will simulate an injector in the system.
When you're building a custom car you have to expect hurdles. Just because it's been done before, doesn't mean it's going to go smoothly for you. I just installed a '98 5.9 engine in a '94 5.2 Dakota. For a week it's been running like crap. I was getting frustrated that I just spent $1700 on a truck I can't drive on the street. It turns out the '98 5.9 injectors I was using were smaller than the '94 5.2 injectors causing a lean misfire. I almost spent another $120 on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and an unknown amount of time on fabbing this up on the truck. I ASSUMED (assumption being the mother of all f-ups) that the 5.9 injectors would flow more. I was wrong. Now the truck runs great.
A.J.
My '88 Shelby Z T-top 2.4 90+ interior swap..... IS ALIVE!!!
Thanks for the help guys!
I had to use stock injectors, because the SRT injectors are high impedance. Before I figured that out, I had the computer from my daily driver in it while the SRT injectors were in it, and it didn't fry the computer thank god! Oh, the calibrated, socketed computer was bad as well.
Last edited by stitus; 08-21-2011 at 10:14 PM.
We told you earlier,
Glad its alive.
Getting bad cals happens, even from the factory, so whomever did them for you will most likely redo them for nothing, so don't get mad.
FYI, when doing custom stuff, its wise to use stock components to get it running, then install the custom cals etc after you know it starts.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
cool... this is the first and ONLY custom project I am going to do! lol Sucks that I had 2 cals and neither one worked though, so I know the computer I sent in is now bad When I started this project, I wasn't even aware that I could get it running with stock components unfortunately.
The computer I made for you is probably OK. But I did have an issue with the SBEC cals that was fixed in May. Send me a PM, I'll be happy to make an update for you.