Since you write your own cal this may not be an issue, but don't you want your operating temp to be close to normal for a run?
I usually try to get the temp to where the thermostat opens,(I have a 180 stat) before a run, I thought it could be more consistent that way.
It looked like you were around 159 at the beginning of that run.
I don't have a t-stat anymore. I usually try to start the run at 160F. In the past, that meant that I ended the run up near 200F. It's much cooler now, with the pump spinning faster. I may need to add a restrictor in place of the t-stat. Which also might help the flow through the #4 adapter.
this! plus it may slow the flow through the rad giving the coolant a chance to actually cool too. also, what about running the #4 coolant mod feeding the head with cool coolant from the top of the waterpump body (like a few others have done), instead of trying to just pull more hot coolant through it?I may need to add a restrictor in place of the t-stat. Which also might help the flow through the #4 adapter.
ive also never liked the fact that the turbine housing sits directly under #3 runner, and without an intercooler and mitsu turbo, im wondering if the intake temps are just to hot for #3? are you running any sort of coatings/covers for the intake/turbine?
Last edited by OmniLuvr; 08-11-2015 at 10:33 PM.
I think a restrictor in place of the T-stat is exactly what you should be experimenting with to see if you can increase coolant flow through the #4 mod.
You could also do some really low effort testing to see if this is a good idea before making a restrictor plate, by just clamping the upper radiator hose to various degrees of constriction with some pliers and seeing how it acts.
http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70547-H.../dp/B00A8FNOP0
(also sold at Harbor Freight for about the same price)
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
The restrictor will also create increased pressure in the block to prevent boiloff. Hot spots and boiling don't transfer heat. That is the reason for running them. Not sure that is actually happening in a T1 powered car but its possible, especially since its happening on the top end.
As a side note, I would enjoy seeing a pressure sensor tapped into a block to observe real coolant pressures in different locations under different situations.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Throw in a 180 stat and give it a try with the new pulley
No space for a T-Stat anymore.Originally Posted by Keito
I had acannel make me this adapter plate to install -12 AN lines for the upper rad hose (lower is -16AN).
Besides, the reason I removed the t-stat and went to the electric water pump was to try and cool the car off better between runs. When you get to round 3 or 4, they often tell you to just come back to the lanes. With a 180 t-stat in there, the coolest I could get the car is 180F between runs (if that even). Now, I can get it back down to 160 in like 5 minutes.
I think I'll just try a 1/2" hole in a plate under the t-stat housing. It should also help pull water out of the #4 adapter.
As for the #3 runner temp - that's a good point OmniLuvr. I hadn't though of that before. I think I'll pick up some temperature paint and see what the temp difference is between the runners. I don't currently have any kind of heat shield back there. But, I have thought about it for years. Just a simple turbine blanket off eBay might work.
This looks like it should fit the Mitsu turbo. Might need to get 2 of them (1 for the 'Tona and one for the Omni).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-Titanium...2e4daa&vxp=mtr
I think I just had a heart attack.
How about this one? It's much more reasonable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/371408120483...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Temperature paint as in paint that changes colors depending on temp? Painting an intake with that is a neat idea..
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yep, they make these in 25F increments. I figure, start at 125, go up thru 250F; paint small stripes on each intake runner, see if there's any significant difference between runner temps...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempilstik-T...item235677017c
Race teams use them on brake rotors as a tell-tale for how hot they got.
Last edited by ShelGame; 08-12-2015 at 02:07 PM.
Now that's something that I could see owning.
Got the Tempilstiks today. Next time I get the Daytona out, I'll put some on the intake to check the temperature of each runner.
Awesome! I am interested in what the results turn out to be!
I posted earlier in my GLH thread by mistake; reading about the Tempilstiks - they don't work like I thought. I thought they were like brake rotor paint in pen format. But, they're really more like crayons that melt at a specific temperature. So, they'll be a little harder to use to check the intake runner temps. I'll have to get them hot, then shut the car down quick and rub the different stiks on to check the temps. Not so convenient, but probably still useful.
Since DropBox changed their public folder policy, I moved all of my Daytona pics over to Flickr.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/146396513@N07/87k49U
Rob, if you get a sec can you look at this thread,
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...Who-s-done-it-!!!!!
Your input is needed.
Thanks!
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