Maybe just the red showing thru the silver paint in the welded corner?
Maybe just the red showing thru the silver paint in the welded corner?
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Possibly...
---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------
Here's the measurements I made in the car for the roll bar (2 summers ago)...
The Mustang ('79-93 fox) Competition Engineering roll bar measures 51.5" at the widest, and 45" at the bottom. It's a little tall so that it can be cut down to fit, but I imagine it will still be about 47" wide or so at the bottom after it's cut to height.
Last edited by ShelGame; 07-28-2015 at 09:19 AM.
Yeah, that might work. Didn't realize you were usingt he Fox kit, but wasn't sure if CE made a G-body kit. I'm definitely interested in seeing pics of the kit pre-install. Wonder if it would work in a P-body as I havn't seen any kits for those.
I prolly have a hundred more pics of my S&W kit install than are on the BAP site, so LMK if you want to see anything specific.
EDIT - added a pic. One thing the kit did do (which I think the fox kit does also) is bend in at the bottom to get past the sill to the floor.
JT
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Yeah, the CE kit does that, too. I wasn't sure it would until I actually saw it in person (in my garage). But, it very closely matches my measurements (sorry for the poor sketch, I had meant to convert it to CAD...).
One other difference is, mines 'just' a 6-point kit, not a 10-point cage like yours...
JT
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I don't 'need' it at all. I'm just trying to stiffen up the car a bit. We have to add the bar to legally delete the rear seat (and seat belts ). I honestly don't know if only 5 points is legal or not. I always thought it was 6. I still have to re-read the rules before I get to welding...
Pretty sure 5pt is legal from 11.49 to 10.00 (as long as under 135mph) in the safety rules, but not sure about the stock class allowing the rear seat delete rules.
JT
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I finally found (and bought) a set of 24.5" slicks from Jason Hagger. Got them mounted up last weekend. I think I need wider front wheels now. They're cantalevered just a little bit on these 15x6" rims, lol. If anyone has a line on some used 15x7" Mopar Small Bolt Centerlines, please let me know.
I'd take pics of the car, but it's not pretty with it all up in the air and stuff...
Does anyone know what the blower unit in a Daytona weighs? 50lb?
complete box with both cores ? I'd say about that, maybe a little less even.
Hold up dude!... Learn from a veteran drag racer before you start throwing money away! I've Drag raced for 9 years before finding a more stimulating passion and cheaper, my passion now is snowmachining in the mountians. Now back to you, before you even think about adding sub frames or even a roll cage get the car to a frame shop, make sure it is square before you go to cutting and welding! Weld a bent car and it will never launch straight!!! Since your running a stock class you have to play the rules to the "T". So if your not running fast enough for a roll bar DON'T put it in. Your first goal is to loose weigh within the rules. Your roll bar will weigh more then the back seat. You need to work on cheap mods first such as removing sound deading, seat foam, useless dash stuff ect. free horse power. Another thing here is to do one Mod at a time, reason for this is if you do 5 mods and only pick up a few thousand's, you don't know if a mod made any gains or lost you time. Ok let's talk about holding a car at the line while spooling up the turbo, Line lock on the brakes and a MSD two step launch control ignition. For traction at the launch, tie the front control arms down and put air shocks on the rear to stiffen the rear up so it don't squat. If you watch a slow motion video of a car leaving the line, it will raise the front end of the car, lower the rear of the car, all this before a wheel moves. With air shocks on the rear and a solenoid hooked to a switch after hitting 2nd gear on the shifter to activate a dump valve for the air shocks you should launch very well and consistent and eliminate rear squat. I have more info if your are interested.
It doesn't weigh that much. I'd bet on the 25-30# range. I'll know very soon, however. As soon as TU is able t send out the aluminum radiators I'll be pulling my box to clean it and replace both cores in it. I'll weigh it before and after.
Thanks for the advice. Since I already have the 2nd fastest BF/S car in the country, I don't think I need to go any faster. if you get NitroJoes stats, you can look me up. Been 2nd for years to Dennis Chapman's '88 Shadow 2.2 T1 car. But, only by a couple hundredths...
Actually, everything I'm doing this winter is to try and get the car more consistent. Adding the rollbar is really just to try and stiffen the car up. If you've ever looked under an '89 Daytona and compared the 'frame rails' to a 90+ you'd see there is a huge difference in the chassis stiffness. The later frame rails are at least 1/2" taller than the early ones. The roll bar may not do anything at all for me ET wise, but it can't hurt to stiffen up the chassis. Plus, I do occasionally run SS/EC with the car in IHRA and the roll bar is required for that class.
The weight reduction stuff is to try and counter the added weight of the roll bar. As it is, I run the car about 100lbs heavy; all the 'extra' weight is on the front end for traction. I have 100lb ballast box in the RF engine bay, and a 50lb bar at the bottom of the rad support. I have taken the 50 off before, but I lose 60' time when I do. If I take 50 out of the box, I get wheel spin on the RH side (even with a phantom grip).
Right now I'm looking at:
Roll bar = +100lb
Rear seat = - 50lb
Seat Belts = -15lb
Racing Harness = +8lb
Blower unit = -40lb
Wire harness = -20lb
Carpet pad = -12lb
Park Brake pedal/bracket = -5lb
All told, that should be ~35lb lighter. All behind the front axle, which is where the weight needs to come from.
I also already have a line-loc, but it doesn't hold the car worth a damn at all. With the skinnies on the rear, I just drag them thru the water. Maybe it would work better if I lowered the tire pressure, but then that would add rolling resistance at the top end.
I will never run an MSD in this car. I'm working on adding a good 2-step to the stock computer. If I can't get that to work, I'll just powerbrake it another season until I do get it working.
As for the suspension, I have some different ideas about how to make it work. I originally had Mopar rally springs on the rear with the Carrera adjustable shocks. Still have the shocks, but I went to Eibach lowering springs all around. Dropped the CG of the car about 2" and picked up a little in short time. I have a traction bar idea for the front end that I want to try (borrowing an idea from Warren's car - not sure if he still runs it).
---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------
Well, it's been dry for years. There's no heater hoses under the hood, no AC hoses, etc. So, It's just the blower unit and dry cores.
JT
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Last edited by ShelGame; 01-21-2012 at 12:06 AM.
And the 10pt allows smaller size tube...
JT
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Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
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And, I don't know how much it will weigh when installed, the shipping weight of the kit was like 110lbs (including boxes), so I assume that the installed weight will be much lower...
True... It seemed I had to cut a few inches off the end of each tube with the S&W kit
JT
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
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I can attest to the wiring not being much. I have my dash harness out now, and eliminated a few things that the car no longer has, or never had. I didn't save really anything, but it made the harness simpler. It's free, it keeps me entertained, and it doesn't hurt.