'89 Daytona C/S NHRA Stocker

[ShelGame]

That is interesting. There would have to be some pretty good hardware on the board to run the pump if it does indeed come from there. I can't imagine that they would do it that way, but who knows?

It's not enough power to run the pump, but for sure the pump is drawing some power thru the board. The noise it makes is the kind when an electric motor is powered, but not enough voltage to turn; Just a hum. My concern is that, it will still draw quite a bit of current thru the SBECII that way and possibly burn something out in the SBECII or the fuel pump itself. It's a Bosch 044 external, and not cheap to replace. Nor is the SBECII.

My suspicion is that the circuit internally is used to also power the baro solenoid and alternator field for diagnostics. Without the 2nd ASD sense wire, I got codes for both the alt field and baro solenoid (that both work fine for the SBEC-I). So, I think a zener diode to prevent current from flowing out of the SBECII from that pin will do the job. I think.

[cordes]

Could you use a little relay for it? If it's not drawing a ton of current a small SS relay could be the ticket.

[Vigo]

I would just wire a relay into the adapter harness so it's sort of self-contained to the harness. You may have to run the power feed for the relay outside the adapter harness, but that's one external wire at the most.

[Ondonti]

What is the rule on headgaskets? Headgaskets control the flow of water into the head so you can close down some flow in 1-3 and open things up at #4 and get the exact same result. Stagnant coolant is the fault of the headgasket design since its been known since before 2.2's existed that headgaskets can be used to even out hot spots.

Manufacturers don't seem to put a lot of thought into that.

[ShelGame]

What is the rule on headgaskets? Headgaskets control the flow of water into the head so you can close down some flow in 1-3 and open things up at #4 and get the exact same result. Stagnant coolant is the fault of the headgasket design since its been known since before 2.2's existed that headgaskets can be used to even out hot spots.

Manufacturers don't seem to put a lot of thought into that.

Headgasket is open, so long as it's at least as thick as stock (they really only consider that anyone wants to INCREASE compression)...

[T1 woodywagon]

Actually Rob the head gasket can be thinner than oem, as long as you make up the difference with your deck height. Now they just look at your total gasket, and deck height together. I was tore down in 1998 for the record in my class and my motor had a maximum deck of .004ab. AB means above block motor, so in nhra's eyes every piston had to be at least 001" above the deck, but no more than 004" above. When they measured the first time it came up at 0 deck. The tech inspector said "you better make sure your dial indicator is set right or you will be disqualified for improper deck height. I reset the dial indicator stand and guage and we rolled the motor over again and got 001" above the block, and he said your good to go. On a side note when they checked my lift at the valve it was about .020" low on the intake and .025" low on the exhaust. I was giving up lots on a .364" max lift cam. I bought new rocker arms and got it really close to spec.

[ShelGame]

Finally got some time to work on my own stuff again. The diode worked to keep the fuel pump from running on, it also fixed the ASD and ALT codes I was getting. But, now I have a code 53 that wasn't there before, and the code 37 for the Baro solenoid is still there. Was the baro solenoid different from 92?

[ShelGame]

Finished my adapter, so it will now also run on a SMEC. But, I get a code 14, so I gotta check that out. Maybe I missed a wire somewhere...

[ShelGame]

Adapter pics, if anyone is interested...

[ShelGame]

SMEC setup is working perfectly with my jumper harness.

But, the SBECII is still having issues. I still get codes 37 and 41. 41 is the alternator circuit. For sure, the alternator DOES work with the SBEC and SMEC. The SBECII powers the alt slightly differently from the SBEC (powered by the ASD instead of directly by the ignition switch), but I don't see how that could cause the code.

The code 37 I thought was for the baro solenoid. But, the SBEC and SBECII wiring for that are identical. Then I noticed, that from 89 the non-turbo computers used that code for the PTU solenoid. My race A413 doesn't have a lock-up converter. Looking at the code, I think all US-Spec Turbo Auto's must have some with the PTU. So, I now think that code is for the lock-up solenoid; not the baro. So, I have to figure out how to fix that. Might require a little custom code...

[ShelGame]

Wow. I had totally forgotten about that last post. Always a good idea to refresh my memory by reading my own posts, I guess.

Anyway, got some time this weekend (and some warm weather, if you can call 42F warm) to finally get some work done on my cooling system. I installed 2 acannel parts - the 4th cylinder cooling adapter, and a T-Stat housing I had him make me up.

I need to order some more 12-AN fittings. the 2x 45's I was planning to use don't look like they will work well for the upper hose. I need a 90 and a straight.

[cordes]

That's looking really good Rob. I just picked up a fuse block like that yesterday in the JY. I can't wait to get it installed in my Omni. That's all I'm waiting on to finish off the wiring conversion to SBEC electronics.

[ShelGame]

Did a little bit of work on the radiator yesterday. Bottom port went well. Top one not so much. I may have to take it to a rad shop to get the fitting properly soldered in. I pulled a little too hard to get the old nipple out, and ripped the end tank just enough to make a gap that won't fill with solder.

Anyway, good pics of the bottom port and hose mock-up...

[GLHNSLHT2]

Ooooh nice. what are the smaller lines for? Where'd ya get the fittings to solder in? I'd like to do that to my T1 rad.

[ShelGame]

Ooooh nice. what are the smaller lines for? Where'd ya get the fittings to solder in? I'd like to do that to my T1 rad.

Trans cooler.

I got the fittings at Lowes. They're 1" pipe to 3/4"FNPT copper. They solder nicely to the brass rad.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Thanks for the Info.

[ShelGame]

Finished up all the water hose work this week. And installed a K&N air filter. And fixed the exhaust hanger. All told, this winters' updates should be good for nearly another 10lbs weight reduction.

Now, I need to get to the track, add a little timing; see if the #4 coolant mod is helping or not. I plumbed it from #4 to the former heater inlet on the water pump. That's the acannel adapter plate in there.

[cordes]

Excellent work. I can't wait to see how you fair.

[Vigo]

We're counting on you to give us probably the clearest evidence to date of what the #4 cooling mod can do. Im looking forward to hearing your results!

[ShelGame]

One more update. I had forgot that I bought a knock listener for it last fall, too. I found that while going thru my spares boxes. I installed it on the thermostat box. Which I really don't like, but it was the only place I could find (aside from the stock knock sensor location) to mount it without needing a stepped-stud. I'd actually prefer to put it on the end of the head down by cyl #4, since I know it was previously the worst cyl for knock.

Anyway, it works. But, all I can hear while idling and free revving is a nasty lifter tick. I guess I need to pull the cam and check it out. These are PT's that have been in there for several years without a problem. So, I don't know what's going on with them. I do have a couple spare sets, just in case...