My buddy with a high boost 2.5 Omni spent some time on the dyno and found considerable top end retarding the cam.
Thanks
Randy
My buddy with a high boost 2.5 Omni spent some time on the dyno and found considerable top end retarding the cam.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
Launch so low that doesn't happen........ Then you might have a situation where you can run strong timing but you wait for your turbo to spool up. As long as its smooth you will 60' consistantly.Originally Posted by ShelGame
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Yeah, I think so too. Right now, the engine runs out of breath at 52-5300rpm. But, with the gear I have and 24.5" slicks, I'm crossing the finish line at 55-5600rpm. Also, it has ton's of torque off the line. So, retarding the cam helps both problems, right?
That's kind of the idea. The problem is, launching at really low RPM makes for a really slow 60' and can hurt the overall run. The key is turning it down just enough to maintain traction and keep it consistent, without throwing away the ET.
Of course, with a FourPlay cal, it's possible to have a cal setup for the best ET (IE, qualifying or heads-up runs); and another for 'bracket-mode'. Bracket mode would of course then be a little bit slower. But even then, that can be an advantage. When the other racers see me dial 0.2 slower than my qualifyers, they might think I'm just playing games; trying to break them out. If that's the case, they may back out and give me the stripe.
Exactly!! Off topic, but I'm curious if you ever ran or considered running as a 1988 2.2 Turbo I ??
Not criticizing at all just curious how the two combos compare in NHRA competition.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
did they have an 88 2.2 t1? if so, I don't think it was in the Daytona, not sure if that's part of the rules either? also, I cant remember why he couldn't do 2.2 t2, something about the factory power puts him in a different class? I should read again...
Actually, I have. Its the only combination still listed at basically the factory rating. So, its soft.
It would be better in a lighter body, like a Shadow.
There was. It was a one year only deal. Same LW bottom end as an 87 log intake car, but with a 1pc and the Mitsubishi turbo. It came in just about everything. Except maybe the minivans and Omnis.
Correct, basically everything but the minivans and omni. I cant think of anything else for sale in 88 that couldnt get it, even Aries/Reliant wagons.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I have 3 LW bottom ends in my garage. So, that's what I'm planning to use for my '84 GLH project. If it ever gets warm enough to go and get it...Correct, basically everything but the minivans and omni. I cant think of anything else for sale in 88 that couldnt get it, even Aries/Reliant wagons.
Winter's over, Milan Dragway opens this Saturday, will be getting the car ready today.
To-Do List:
1) Install Flashable FourPlay SBEC and Digital Switch (these will be up for sale after a quick test today).
2) Re-index the cam to -4 degrees
3) Adjust the camber with the car on the ground
4) String the front toe
5) Add water
Pics of the progress later today...
Take pics when you adjust the camber and toe
Made good progress today, but not all wins...
1) Install Flashable FourPlay SBEC and Digital Switch (these will be up for sale after a quick test today).
Made a plate to mount the FourPlay Switch Pod where the ash tray used to be.
But, it doesn't work right. It was fine on my bench flashing cals, but in the car something isn't right. It works for a few seconds and then I think the ECU loses the selected address line for some reason. I don't know if the capacitors in the switch are getting charged up, or if it's due to the long wire or what. After I power down the SBEC, the LED stays on a few seconds. Need to investigate more.
2) Re-index the cam to -4 degrees
Close. The MP multi-key sprocket only goes +2, 4, 6, 8. So, I indexed it to +6, and then rolled the cam back a tooth. So, -3 degrees net. No pics.
3) Adjust the camber with the car on the ground
It didn't really need any adjustment. It checked at 1.2 neg on the right, and 1.1 on the left. And the floor slopes 0.3. I didn't think I could get them any closer, so I left it.
However, the car didn't drive quite right. It pulls to the left just a bit. And looking at the pics above together, I now realize why. I read the camber gauge wrong. It's 1.2 neg on the right, but 1.1 POSITIVE on the left. That would explain the pull. Of course, if I camber it in 2 degrees, it will also toe the car in some more. So, I guess I need to get the racks back on...
4) String the front toe
The toe was not even close. It measured 1/2" of toe-in.
Adjusted it to ~1/16" toe-in...
One more just to show how the tape runs through the car.
And, here it is rolled out into the drive way, to make room for the 'Baron. First pic with all 4 track shoes on.
5) Add water
Didn't get to this, but it can wait until Saturday.
Last edited by ShelGame; 04-09-2015 at 08:33 AM.
The console & dash set up looks great!
Well, a bad day racing is still better than a good day working.
Car ran like $hit today. Only got 2 passes in. Thought at first the race gas had turned, so I drained it and refilled with new(er) gas. No change. Still ran like $hit. My best guess now is I didn't index the cam right. So, it's Fidanza time.
Got the Fidanza sprocket in tonight. Dialled the cam in to 126 degrees (4 deg retarded from stock).
Also put new plugs in it for good measure.
I'll take it on Sunday with the LeBaron and see if it doesn't run better this time.
Got rained out 2 weekends in a row.
My father-in-law took the Daytona to get a rack alignment on Saturday (while I was travelling). While I was on the plane, I finished up my TPS indicator light code to try in this car. Basically, I will turn on the CEL when the TPS is in a specific voltage range to help me be more consistent with staging. It might be considered illegal. I need to read up on 'driver aids' in the NHRA rule book.
Finally got out to the track. The car seems better. No more misfires.
My TPS indicator code didn't work right, and the staging limiter didn't turn off. So, I had to run an old cal. I'll look at the code next week.
Oh yeah, now I remember. The brake switch wiring is messed up. That's why the staging limiter didn't work. I forgot about that.
The car is still getting hot at the top end of the track. This all started when I reduced the water volume by going to smaller diameter hose (and AN fittings). I increased the bottom hose from -12 to -16 last winter, but it's still getting too hot. On a relatively cool day, too (high temp was ~77F). So, I guess the next step is overdrive the water pump. I think I already have a bigger pulley for the motor. Just need to dig it out. That should be an easy change.
I forgot to log all 4 knock retards (only logged the total knock volts and threshold). So, I don't yet know if the 4th cyl cooling mod adapter is helping or not. I was still getting some knock above 5k rpm, but it's hard to tell what the cause was. I also had taken some fuel out of the higher RPM range.
I need to go update my logger setup to include all 4 KR's.
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