Bummer about the water flow issue.
Bummer about the water flow issue.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Though check there's something other than oxidation holding the fins to the pipes on the rad, I discovered this issue when I was running hot, couldn't find much wrong, but decided to pressure wash the rad to defly it... annnnd all the fins ended up scatted over my engine bay and on the driveway.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Pretty sure it's all clean inside and out. I just re-brazed the nipples (hehe) last year to add the threaded bungs for the AN fittings/hose.Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222
Got the water pump pulley swapped over from 10t to 14t. Definitely runs faster. But, instead of going to Milan this past weekend, we went to Red Barns. So, no testing.
Also, I'm moving all of my photos over to a DropBox album. I'll fix any links I broke, but in the meantime, try this: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/71ykrgur7...QigE2m-rW4QNsa
Bracket racing at Milan Saturday night. Going to try leaving in 2nd gear. Might be better for consistency.
Should be a good test of the cooling system, too. Going to be in the mid 80's.
Won first round. Ran a 13.592 on a 13.59 dial. I'm framing this time slip. Full race report to come later.
Short version; 4th cylinder cooling mod seems to work. #4 is no longer the main KR cylinder. But, now #3 is, and it seems worse. I was seeing up to 6 deg retard on 3. But, I also had some misfire up until round 1. So, I need to double check the datalogs and see if its still there on the round 1 data.
NGK Vpower plugs suck. Going back to Accels.
Bigger pulley on the water pump is a success. Car never got over 200deg, and cools right down tooling back to the pits.
I'll post a full race report later. I also learned some cal stuff, and logging stuff...
Won 2nd round...
Holy cow. Are these live updates? The future is now.
Kind of live. A few minutes after my run anyway. I usually don't have this good a signal out here. AT&T must've put up a new tower nearby.
Waiting for the call for 3rd round.
Updates thread, launches, wins round. I'm seeing a trend here Rob.
Great news, terrific dial in !!. I think # 3 is typically the problem cylinder.
Was this in Power Glide mode??
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
No, Ididn't actually try it. My father in law us racing the LeBaron this weekend, too. He tried it, said it was way slower.
So, instead, I quick shifted from 1 to 2 at about the 60' mark. Which seems to work well.
Oh yeah, and lost 3rd round. Quick shifted from 1 to 3. Oops. Need to make stronger detents for the shifter.
and......
89 Voyager LE, 2.5T2 - rest in peace
87 Charger Shelby T2 (2.4 conversion in process)
The table I currently have specified as the minimum advance in the SMEC and SBEC cals isn't right. I have to re-read the code and see how its really used. It could be valid for part throttle, maybe.
Many of the RAM locations need the guage settings updated in MP Scan.
MAP
Advance
Interesting, I've had no problem with NGK plugs on the street, on 20psi.
Most likely, they just too cold. They foul the center electrode in about 10 passes.
Full Race report:
I went to Milan Dragway Saturday for the 'Super Saturday' event. It's basically just a street bracket race; with a special class for trucks and vans. They were also running Jr. Dragsters, and the local Gassers club. They even had a minibike race. There are some scary fast minibike out there.
I got 3 time trials in, which is good. I needed the seat time. Every pass, the car misfired just before the 1-2 shift. I looked thru the data, but couldn't see anything going on like overboost, or fuel cut, etc. Finally, after the 3rd TT, I changed the plugs to the newest set of NGK V-Powers that I had hoping that would clear it up. After running a 13.63 and a 13.64 in TT, I decided that if the plugs fixed the misfire, I'd pickup 0.05. So, I dialed a 13.59 pretty much blindly. Ran a 13.592 in the first round and won. Horrible light, though at .13. Luckily the other guy was more horrible with a 0.3 something light. I also took him at the line. It's the closest run on a dial I've ever had.
Video of the 13.592 run:
The other videos didn't come out so good, It was getting dark for rounds 2 and 3 and my windshield is actually really dirty. So, the videos look horrible.
You can see the knock I was showing on cyl 3 and 4, and that the coolant temp stays in control the whole run.
Did you manually short shift the 1-2 in that vid?
Also, with coolant temp under control, whats your thinking on the knock in 3 & 4?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
With the spark plug problems I would think its all tied together. Plugs tend to get fouled from being very rich, oil, or failing to fire for a few cycles (this could be a million reasons including arcing someplace else). They should clear up if the motor is hot and its got decent AFR at idle. Even nasty motors that require hot plugs to start can keep running on extremely cold plugs once they warm up. I run the NGK 9's in my Holset 3.0 and they do misfire a bit right after startup at certain load levels. That misfire only happens once and then the plugs are happy. That is 8.9:1 compression. On an oil burning 7ish:1 motor you can have some big problems with cold plugs but that is on startup. I have never seen a "too cold" plug have problems at WOT, in fact that is how you have to clear them out sometimes, WOT with some heavy load.
Still have to hear datalog report. JT is the only one I have seen having legitimate spark plug problems at extreme combustion pressures.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I manually shift everything. It's a Turbo Action manual valve body.
But, I am trying to short shift 1-2. To control wheel spin, and because the gearing is so short that I am usually late on the 1-2 shift. So, rather than wait for the shift light, I'm basically pulling 2nd as soon as I get off the line. Seems to be working better. I need more practice.
Not sure about the knock in 3-4. It could be related to the spark plug change. Or, it could be that the #4 coolant mod isn't working well the way I have it plumbed. I have no t-stat, and the #4 water line goes right to the heater inlet on the pump. It's possible that it just doesn't get enough suction to draw much water (or heat) out of #4.
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