Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

[TheCanadian007]

I"m somewhat of a n00b when it comes to auto transmissions; never torn one down or done much work to them besides fluid/filter change and adding an external fluid cooler. Where mightI find the line pressure knob and is there any tool required to turn it? (Wrench or use fingers?)

Secondly, in regards to the valve body mods, I was planning on leaving it with a stock valve body and just shift it manually when performance is desired, but still leaving an automatic function for the lazy days. Does modding the valve body serve any advantage besides that?

Finally, where is the accumulator, and (in a nutshell if you could) what function does it perform?

I heard that the Turbo 2 equipped Shelby Lancers had de-tuned calibrations with torque limited to around 180 ft-lbs for longevity. Will I have to worry about breaking pieces with a T3 turbo and the Stage 2 cal? I don't intend on abusing it, but I shall take it out to the drag way once in a while, running ordinary street tires, no slicks. If I keep the one-wheeled burnouts to a minimum, shall it last a long while?

Also in regards to performance with the automatic, how fast would one expect an auto T2 Horizon to be in the 1/4 mile? Are they considerably slower than their 5 speed counterparts? I hope to still be able to eat Mustangs and Camaros once I've done my buildup.

Really appreciate the help and knowledge, guys!

Cheers, TheCanadian

[RoadWarrior222]

Line pressure screw is on the front passenger side of the valve body, it turns with a hex key, or if you want to grate up the head and leave slivers that will wash off into the fluid, vicegrips or pliers.

Accumulator is at the front of the case, partially cast into it, the fluid passages are the big ones you can stuff your pinkie in, then there's a circular thing inset into the case up there. Basically it kind of bridges pressure for one set of clutches and bands for 1st gear so they still hold while 2nd gear comes into play. It performs the function of trying to be in 2 gears at once Basically it plays to the notion that an automatic transmission should be buttery smooth, by letting one set of clutches and bands slip and grind out, while the other set slips and grinds in, instead of just releasing one set and applying the other in sequence.

[TheCanadian007]

Ah, thanks for the clarification! Anyone have any info on the shift kit and longevity with added torque and performance potential?

Cheers, TheCanadian

[TheCanadian007]

Buuump, anyone got teh infos?

[87yorker]

PM Sent to Steve

[turbovanman²]

PM Sent to Steve

Who's Steve?

[inthefreeze1998]

I have a 41te that I keep rippin apart every 7 months to change reverse frictions 2 of them any thoughts on why this is blowing out frictions (pressure)??

[turbovanman²]

I have a 41te that I keep rippin apart every 7 months to change reverse frictions 2 of them any thoughts on why this is blowing out frictions (pressure)??

4 speed, no idea, maybe PM "SebringLX"

[pauly_no_van]

Is that my sway bar mod? With end links? That mod seems to be getting pretty popular. Funny no one believes me when I say after modding the sway bar both tires sping and a posi is almost useless.

Hey,

I used Tierods for endlinks, did not last long.
I would probably either find a link that is big enough for fitting around the swaybar, else just use poly bushings.
Endlinks really do make it better though!

I am going to try this drilled VB mod on my 'problem child' tranny very soon
paul

[turbovanman²]

I am going to try this drilled VB mod on my 'problem child' tranny very soon
paul

MAKE sure your trans is beefed up.

[pauly_no_van]

MAKE sure your trans is beefed up.

5 clutches per drum, diff pin retainers, start at 'zero' on the line press screw...?
Also, I will be doing this to an untouched VB, not a modded one.
sound right?
Thanks as always Simon!

[turbovanman²]

5 clutches per drum, diff pin retainers, start at 'zero' on the line press screw...?
Also, I will be doing this to an untouched VB, not a modded one.
sound right?
Thanks as always Simon!

The clutch clearances must be modified, stock, bad stuff will happen, also need the stronger rear band strut otherwise the line pressure will nuke the stocker in no time.

You should do the valve body mods, its already out, why wouldn't you?

Give the line pressure screw a few turns and adjust to feel,

[pauly_no_van]

The clutch clearances must be modified, stock, bad stuff will happen, also need the stronger rear band strut otherwise the line pressure will nuke the stocker in no time.

I have experimented with this, putting a modded vb in a stock trans. Got to 12k miles then gov started doing weird stuff.
bushing material in pan, fluid red otherwise... :/

[Vigo]

I did this line pressure bleed mod to a slipping trans that had metal in the pan (LOOOSE clutch packs). I went with a smaller orifice than 1/16 (forget exactly) and it stopped it slipping on a 13psi 2.5L. Drove it for a few hundred miles after that and parked it, so all i can say for durability on a not-ideal trans is that it didnt snap the clutch drums apart. Maybe with an overkill orifice it would, though.

[turbovanman²]

I did this line pressure bleed mod to a slipping trans that had metal in the pan (LOOOSE clutch packs). I went with a smaller orifice than 1/16 (forget exactly) and it stopped it slipping on a 13psi 2.5L. Drove it for a few hundred miles after that and parked it, so all i can say for durability on a not-ideal trans is that it didnt snap the clutch drums apart. Maybe with an overkill orifice it would, though.

Drive it some more,

[Vigo]

It didnt even shift hard. Just slightly firmer than stock. I used a small orifice and backed the adjuster all the way out to start. Just started building another trans so the mod will get tested further when that's installed, but then it will have tight clutch packs. I really dont think doing this mod will kill clutch drums.. i think OVERDOING this mod will. 1/16 is too big. Start smaller.

[pauly_no_van]

next vb is drilled 1/32" with the rest of the usual mods..
4 clutches in 1st gear drum end up at .004" if it were for a van id try to get 5 in
5 clutches in reverse drum also to .004" with a404 steels..

[RoadWarrior222]

I've kinda lost track about when I had this mod in, I just had about 9/10ths of max dialled in on the screw before it. I metalled out the original tranny at about 190,000 miles after about 10,000 miles on the original VB mods, with the experimental "wave spring" LSD lash up, cleaned it out, then it lasted about another 10,000... to reach 200,000 miles, during this time it was kind of "bangy" especially at part throttle. It was making some strange knocking then finally refuesed to shift up, there was loads of brass, friction and iron filings in it, very gungy, so I think the VB gummed up first, but when I pulled it, I found the clutch pack had been grinding the back of the oil pump because all the bushings/washers on the input shaft had worn away to nothing, or paper thin.... I think it was with the replacement tranny that I went to the hole, at 1/16, with stock LP setting, and standard set of shift kit mods. Now this shifts a lot crisper with no bang, supposedly only 60,000 miles on this tranny. So thinking previous tranny was worn out anyhow, it did seem to be on the verge of slipping before I first SKed it and tightened up the bands. Buuut, whatever was happening before, current setup is an improvement, though I haven't had many miles on it, due to fuelling issues and a leak I have to fix.

[turbovanman²]

It didnt even shift hard. Just slightly firmer than stock. I used a small orifice and backed the adjuster all the way out to start. Just started building another trans so the mod will get tested further when that's installed, but then it will have tight clutch packs. I really dont think doing this mod will kill clutch drums.. i think OVERDOING this mod will. 1/16 is too big. Start smaller.

Mine is 1/16", I have over 150 psi line pressure at idle, so yeah, smaller for a stocker is better.

So if you go that big, parts will bang together pretty fast and with loose clearances, will accelerate wear and breakage, plus the stock rear band strut will bend, I've done it.

next vb is drilled 1/32" with the rest of the usual mods..
4 clutches in 1st gear drum end up at .004" if it were for a van id try to get 5 in
5 clutches in reverse drum also to .004" with a404 steels..

You better not set it at .004", or it will self destruct, you need .040" to .050"

[pauly_no_van]

You better not set it at .004", or it will self destruct, you need .040" to .050"

LOL good catch I meant to put .040"
I also forgot to mention i used an NA torque converter this last time.
I actually liked the responsiveness, and probably i got a little bit better mileage..
I have heard that is a no-no though...