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Thread: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

  1. #101
    turbo addict
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    I dont know if there is room but id love to run a line from that passage to the outside of the tranny hooked to a needle valve and then dumping back in. Then line pressure adjustment would be super easy. Wouldnt be that hard to do I dont think.

  2. #102
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Sounds good, but wouldn't the spring/regulator just try to overcome it?

    Mike
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  3. #103
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Not sure what you mean, Mike. The bleed takes pressure away from what the stock valve/spring 'sees'. The mod is extremely similar in function to a manual boost controller in a wastegate line.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  4. #104
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    OK, I'm pretty sure I'm just not visualizing things correctly. If I'm not off track here, this mod "over-rides" the existing regulator (spring adjustment)?

    I think I may need to go back over this thread to see where my mental train jumped the track!

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

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  5. #105
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    doesn't completely override, just re-proportions it. Kinda like how the vacuum/boost line affects a fuel pressure regulator.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  6. #106
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    It doesnt defeat the stock spring/regulator valve, it just bleeds off some of the pressure that would be acting against the spring, so it ends up taking more pressure to move the regulator valve to the relief/bypass position, so line pressure goes up even with a completely stock spring and regulator valve.

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  7. #107
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Got it,thanks for the explanations!

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

    Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
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  8. #108
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Hello, Im thinking about drilling the bleed hole. I already have a rmvb (cheeta) in car now. Been in there for a few years. First thing I need to do is check line pressure to see where im at now. Can someone tell me the line pressure ammount again. And best way to check it ? Idle, 2nd gear. Power break motor in 2nd gear ? What numbers am i looking for ? Tranny was rebuilt when rmvb was put in. Tranny is working great. Just like the idea of having higher line pressure with lower reverse pressure. Did cheeta drill this hole already ? Thanks Ryan

  9. #109
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    I'll see if I can dig up the info, unless someone beats me to it.
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  10. #110
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    As far as I remember, the cheetah RMVB was quite extensively reconfigured, so possible it doesn't have same valve cavity to drill hole in, or if it does it has unexpected effects.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  11. #111
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    ok, thanks. Ive never checked pressure. What should I be shooting for? 150psi in 2nd gear 2000rpm?? High 12sec acclaim
    Last edited by rpmguy; 11-24-2014 at 06:40 PM.

  12. #112
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    So how would this mod be on a stock trans?

  13. #113
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Quote Originally Posted by hy35f2t View Post
    So how would this mod be on a stock trans?
    I wouldn't do it unless the trans is in great shape. My 2 cent's.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  14. #114
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    Re: Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

    Quote Originally Posted by rpmguy View Post
    ok, thanks. Ive never checked pressure. What should I be shooting for? 150psi in 2nd gear 2000rpm?? High 12sec acclaim
    My personal experience with the cheetah RMVB. Start by checking out page 10 on the link here...http://www.uscars.biz/uscars/extras-..._A415_A470.pdf

    To check the line pressure on the cheetah RMVB you will need a 1/16th inch pipe thread adapter to a 200 psi gauge installed in the test port that it called "Kickdown apply" in the link I supplied. It will only have a reading in 2nd gear.

    In 2nd gear, holding the brake on, you'll bring the revs up to about 1500 rpms and you should see about 120-125 psi. That's what my unmodified "no bleed" cheetah valve body reads when warm.

    My personal findings are, above 150 psi, the apply pressure on the forward (rear) clutch is too great and it breaks the retaining ring out of the clutch pack and you don't go forward at all but reverse still works.

    I've pushed it to 150 psi and it broke the clutch pack retaining ring as well as the clutch pack and seals on the input shaft. Stick to 120-130 psi warm maximum. I give my car 10 minutes of warm up time just to be sure the oil is warm enough to lower the line pressure to a point where nothing breaks but there's very firm, positive shifts.

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