Line pressure mod in valve body and theory

[Vigo]

I think a 2.5 can handle an n/a converter just fine if you've got a stock turbo. I think the turbo converters are a little TOO loose imo. On a 2.2/auto tho i'd be afraid of MORE lag so i wouldnt put an n/a converter in it hehe.

[turbovanman²]

I think a 2.5 can handle an n/a converter just fine if you've got a stock turbo. I think the turbo converters are a little TOO loose imo. On a 2.2/auto tho i'd be afraid of MORE lag so i wouldnt put an n/a converter in it hehe.

I think your right, but only a stock turbo otherwise all bets are off, lol.

---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ----------

LOL good catch I meant to put .040"
I also forgot to mention i used an NA torque converter this last time.
I actually liked the responsiveness, and probably i got a little bit better mileage..
I have heard that is a no-no though...

You got better mileage because of less slip, which means more power is getting put down and not being wasted thru the slip. I went to a high stall in my van and lost 75-100km's a tank, the difference was night and day around town. The reason you might have heard its a no no is with a lower stall, you could have spool up issues if your trying to brake torque it, but as Vigo said, a stocker, you won't have any issue. I am going back to a stocker for now, need the MPG back,

[A.J.]

When I first did this mod, I drilled the hole straight up and the fluid sprayed all over the dip stick and it made it pretty hard to read the level. The second one I did I angled the bleed hole to the rear and it helped. I drilled my SRT-4 valve body straight up, back when I did my first bleed on my van. I didn't want to have to take it apart, get it welded, and then re-drill the hole. So I made a shield to divert the fluid away from the dip stick using bolts already holding something on the valve body and a 1/4" strip of sheet metal.







You can see the hole in this picture.


A.J.

[Vigo]

Good idear on angling the hole. I too experienced the screwy dipstick readings when i did the mod. The next one i do (which should be pretty soon on my friend's shelby lancer) i will try to remember to angle the hole as you did!

[turbovanman²]

I angled it as far back as possible, can easily read the dipstick now. Good idea A.J if your still having issues reading it,

[RoadWarrior222]

I hafta do that... but I'm trying not to have to crack the thing open, this wrecker trans I put in didn't have whole lot of miles but most of the pan bolts/threads were screwed up real good, it's juuusssst holding on, and I've had to put larger bolts in some holes and backing nuts on some of the ones that come through.... it's a mess.

[A.J.]

I hafta do that... but I'm trying not to have to crack the thing open, this wrecker trans I put in didn't have whole lot of miles but most of the pan bolts/threads were screwed up real good, it's juuusssst holding on, and I've had to put larger bolts in some holes and backing nuts on some of the ones that come through.... it's a mess.

Heli-coil. They're easy to put in aluminum.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Heli-coil. They're easy to put in aluminum.

A.J.

Exactly. I am going to put studs in my pan this time, tired of stripping them out, lol.

[Vigo]

When i worked in a trans shop i helicoiled a LOT of chrysler 3spd pan bolts. Just get the kit, a mopar reusable pan gasket, and a drain plug kit, and make a day of it sometime.

[turbovanman²]

When i worked in a trans shop i helicoiled a LOT of chrysler 3spd pan bolts. Just get the kit, a mopar reusable pan gasket, and a drain plug kit, and make a day of it sometime.

Or if you plan on lots of pan re and re's, stud it,

[A.J.]

Or if you plan on lots of pan re and re's, stud it,

That's a really good idea. I'm going to have to drop the pan multiple times on my SRT-4 build to get the governor right so I think I'll stud it.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

That's a really good idea. I'm going to have to drop the pan multiple times on my SRT-4 build to get the governor right so I think I'll stud it.

A.J.

Hate to admit it but I got the idea from a DCR trans, I had to look at one in a turbo PT Cruiser that I will be reparing, and its studded, so of course, I go ding ding ding. I priced out ARP's and went no f'in way, It will cost me like $500, so picked up some studs from the local Metric place and some Japanese style nuts with the built in washer and the scalloped bottom.

[RoadWarrior222]

I think I'd like studs, since when I'm messing with it, I seem to end up having the pan on and off a few times in a space of a week or two. Dunno whether to just go with the oversize some of the holes are already tapped to, think it was 5/16 ... forgot.

[turbovanman²]

I think I'd like studs, since when I'm messing with it, I seem to end up having the pan on and off a few times in a space of a week or two. Dunno whether to just go with the oversize some of the holes are already tapped to, think it was 5/16 ... forgot.

Then your searching for Metric and Standard fasteners, just heli-coil them, easy and cheap, right up your alley,

[ShadowFromHell]

Is this safe to do on a stock tranny? Since the tranny is stock should I go smaller the 1/16?

[RoadWarrior222]

I think it's saf-"er" than just turning up line pressure, since it doesn't whack the reverse pressure way high and bust the strut.

As for managing to drill it smaller, I find that good quality bits smaller than 1/16 are hard to get hold of, with the result that you either keep breaking the damn things (Very slow feed rate on drill press with everything clamped the F down helps) or that it kind of "mashes" it's way through, which due to malleability of alloy means it probably makes a kind of triangularish hole that's bigger than the nominal bit size, potentially same area as good clean 1/16.

Anyhoo, IMO the 1/16 is fine on unmodified as long as i) it isn't excessively worn, if you're doing it because "it seems a bit more slippy and slushy these days", not a good plan. ii) you do all the maintenance adjustments as tight as possible beforehand, otherwise that sheet is gonna bang around, cause more stress than it should do.

[turbovanman²]

Block the acculator and I wouldn't touch the line pressure adjustment either.

[ShadowFromHell]

So no hole or line pressure adjustment? I have reason to believe the line pressure was actually turned down... the tranny has 80k or so on it. Shouldn't be worn out.

[Vigo]

Eh, you'd be surprised how shitty an 80k mile trans can be, especially back in the pre-604 days when the ---- didnt adjust itself.

I did a smaller than 1/16 hole and liked the result on an unopened trans. I dont remember the size but it was from a 'craft' drill bit set. Go to a craft store and ask what they have for drilling tiny holes in jewelry etc.

Of course as mentioned, bits that small will not accept ANY amount of ham-handedness. You're either really careful, or you break it. So, be careful!

[A.J.]

I bought a micro drill bit kit from Harbor Freight and it's been pretty good. You are only drilling aluminum. I wouldn't try drilling steel with them. I did by a micro drill bit chuck from Snap-on to hold the bits in my regular size drill chuck. I drilled a .042" hole and I think that gave me 80-90 psi base (adjustment all the way out) pressure.