Where to read line pressure when you delete the accumulator ?????????????????

[Dohc Rocks]

As the title suggests, I deleted the accumulator and did the line pressure mod.

I completely loosened the adjustment screw and the case is drilled for access.

Where do I read the line pressure from and what's a good starting pressure ??

[turbovanman²]

If you drilled the vb for the line pressure mod, then simply adjust the line pressure to suit.

I'll look it up when I get to work.

[Aries_Turbo]

when you post that, post the manual VB mods that you were supposed to post ages ago so i can use them on my neon.

[a89mini]

As the title suggests, I deleted the accumulator and did the line pressure mod.

I completely loosened the adjustment screw and the case is drilled for access.

Where do I read the line pressure from and what's a good starting pressure ??

Theres nothin worst than to do something only to relize

you have another problem,do yourself a favor and put

the accumulator back in(remove any plugs you have installed to block passages)

semi measure the distance between accumulator piston and accumulator cover

and make a solid spacer in place of spring,this will prevent piston movement=

drill out case plug hole(eliminate odd ball threads)tap to 1/8"

pipe,install a guage or plug,now you have a point to properly

check your trans pressures.set pressure @ 90-100 psi as starting point

Heres one I made from collapsible pinion spacers

Hope this answers your Q

Richard=

[A.J.]

As the title suggests, I deleted the accumulator and did the line pressure mod.

I completely loosened the adjustment screw and the case is drilled for access.

Where do I read the line pressure from and what's a good starting pressure ??

I ran into that problem too when I first plugged the case for the accumulator. When I pulled my valve body the second time to build a shift kit, I left the accumulator piston in and only plugged the case where the accumulator allows fluid out. The line pressure port stays active so you can take a reading with a gauge.

If you drilled the vb for the line pressure mod, then simply adjust the line pressure to suit.

I'll look it up when I get to work.

As far as drilling the valve body to up the line pressure, drill it so the fluid sprays towards the back of the transmission. If you drill it center so the fluid bleed squirts the fluid straight up, it splashes in the dipstick and makes it hard to read. I drilled a .042" hole and my base fluid pressure started at 75 p.s.i.

A.J.

[RoadWarrior222]

I ran into that problem too when I first plugged the case for the accumulator. When I pulled my valve body the second time to build a shift kit, I left the accumulator piston in and only plugged the case where the accumulator allows fluid out. The line pressure port stays active so you can take a reading with a gauge.

As far as drilling the valve body to up the line pressure, drill it so the fluid sprays towards the back of the transmission. If you drill it center so the fluid bleed squirts the fluid straight up, it splashes in the dipstick and makes it hard to read.

Ohhhhh, that's why mine is a b!tch now...

So you're saying you only need one of the two holes plugged, and it will still disable the accumulator and still read line pressure?

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:10 PM ----------

Edit: Ima thinking I'll screw a deflector tab over it next time I'm in there.

[turbovanman²]

Why would you go to the hassle of making a dummy accumulator? What a waste of time and energy.

As for checking the pressure, use the port next to the return fitting for the cooler, read in 2nd gear. No need to get fancy and block other stuff off or make fancy dummy plugs,

Good tip on the valve body bleed A.J.

---------- Post added at 12:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:57 PM ----------

when you post that, post the manual VB mods that you were supposed to post ages ago so i can use them on my neon.

Yeah, yeah, lol. Got a fax?

I still have to make a KC article on all this, sigh.

[zin]

Interesting to see the various ways folks go to get a similar outcome... Seems like both ways will work to good effect.

Mike

[Aries_Turbo]

Yeah, yeah, lol. Got a fax?

I still have to make a KC article on all this, sigh.

just take a good, in-focus pic of it with a digital camera and post it up. or scan it.

brian

[Dohc Rocks]

Well I went through the ATRA book and it says you can pull line pressure through pretty much any port depending on the gear the trans is actually in.

I checked in the low-reverse port in manual first and at 1000 rpm and the kickdown fully relaxed I have 105 psi and with the kickdown cranked it rises to 135 psi.

All I can say is that the trans is working great - except for the 'billet' lock up that bit the bullet already.... it kicks in but can't hold anything more that the lightest cruise.

I bet the piston they used is a stocker and it deformed with the higher pressure.

[turbovanman²]

All I can say is that the trans is working great - except for the 'billet' lock up that bit the bullet already.... it kicks in but can't hold anything more that the lightest cruise.

I bet the piston they used is a stocker and it deformed with the higher pressure.

Sorry to hear that, so far, mine has taken some good boosting and still holding.