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Thread: Engine Numbers

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
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    Engine Numbers

    My 87 GLHS has had a motor swap by the PO (also original owner). He gave me the original block, but the number stamped is not my VIN, it looks to have been stamped 2 times and these numbers are too short to be a full VIN (also difficult to read).

    Was there an Engine Serial Number like the latter Whittier cars have?

    I'd like to confirm it's the correct block before having it sleeved to be rebuilt.

    Any help is appreciated!

    Thanks
    Law

  2. #2
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    It wouldn't be the whole vin, but just the last few numbers. If I'm remembering correctly.

    Mike
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  3. #3
    We Todd D dot D Turbo Mopar Staff sdac guy's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by Katlaw View Post
    My 87 GLHS has had a motor swap by the PO (also original owner). He gave me the original block, but the number stamped is not my VIN, it looks to have been stamped 2 times and these numbers are too short to be a full VIN (also difficult to read).

    Was there an Engine Serial Number like the latter Whittier cars have?

    I'd like to confirm it's the correct block before having it sleeved to be rebuilt.

    Any help is appreciated!

    Thanks
    Law
    I don't believe the 87 GLHS had a Shelby engine ser # plate. But if it did it would not do any good for your problem. The number Shelby assigned had nothing to do with the actual vin or Chryco stamped engine #.

    The ser # stamped on the block at the factory is what you are looking for, and if I recall correctly, it is stamped on the block at the flywheel/trans end, just below the cylinder head, and is just the last 6 digits of the vin.

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  4. #4
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by sdac guy View Post
    The ser # stamped on the block at the factory is what you are looking for, and if I recall correctly, it is stamped on the block at the flywheel/trans end, just below the cylinder head, and is just the last 6 digits of the vin.

    Barry
    That sounds right to me. Sometimes hard to see if the block has any rust on it.

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  5. #5
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    Tonight I took some tire crayon and rubbed it across to show my problem with identifying the block.




    As you can see, the number appears to be double stamped.





    And finally the block in the car right now!





    I think I can make out some of my VIN starting with the HD5, but I was wondering if there was a way of finding the Factory Production code without the fender tag, as the P.O. misplaced it.

    I wanted to prove the block was absolutely from my car before trying to build it back to stock.

    Thanks for all the help!

    Law

  6. #6
    turbo addict
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    does your camera have a macro setting? If so get a real close picture of the whole thing, first half, and second half. Maybe also some other angles. alot of times the camera can pick it up a little better for some reason.
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  7. #7
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    I tried that with my wife (the camera expert) and this is the best it would do. The stamping is very faint, but when I compared it to the other block and the VIN on the car, I can begin to make out that the number is most likely the correct one. If I had the fender tag I could compare the production code to the over-stamped (?) numbers.

    Thanks

    Law

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by Katlaw View Post
    I tried that with my wife (the camera expert) and this is the best it would do. The stamping is very faint, but when I compared it to the other block and the VIN on the car, I can begin to make out that the number is most likely the correct one. If I had the fender tag I could compare the production code to the over-stamped (?) numbers.

    Thanks

    Law
    If the last 4-5(?) digits of you VIN match one of the string of numbers on the block, it's the original block... Unless it was a dealer/warranty replacement, in which case it may have other numbers with the last 4-5 digits of the car's VIN stamped onto the new block, making it numbers matching and therefore the block you want to have in the car from a collector car standpoint; less desirable than the OE block, but still worlds ahead of some random block just thrown in there...

    Mike

    PS Try taking the picture on an angle and without flash, you'll have to brace the camera so it doesn't move and hold it there for 3-5 times as long as a flash picture, but you'll get the detail you are looking for.
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  9. #9

    Re: Engine Numbers

    there are no special block stamping for the Whittier cars.

    from the pix above, the digits "209503" are the digits that should match the last 6 digits in the VIN for the car it was originally installed in.

    if you are trying to determine if any of these blocks are original to your car, look for these same corresponding last 6 digits from your car's VIN.

  10. #10
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Numbers

    Thanks. I couldn't remember how many of the vin number where stamped.

    Mike

    ---------- Post added at 09:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 AM ----------

    Thanks. I couldn't remember how many of the vin number where stamped.

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

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