Awesome, thanks. Looking forward to those pics.
Awesome, thanks. Looking forward to those pics.
Iam useing a cheap ebay cooler precison sc61 +40s, with the stock cooler it ran ok then i put this on and then all of a sudden +40s couldnt keep up and it ran 10x's better
I popped the first intercooler hose. I was under boost and hit a bump in the road.....Doh. Not a big deal I honestly think the clamp was not tight enough.
I also bumped the boost to 12psi and its feeling a lot more fun. I am noticing very unstable boost tho, which I think is a result of two things. One being the Wastegate arm might need to be loosened a little, and let that flapper door open some more. Second is the cheesy and old Blowoff valves is sticking open and closed, it basically has a mind of its own. I plan on taking it all apart and cleaning it and reassembling and eventually adjusting it correctly. But I think I really want to run a DSM style valve, I have only heard good things about them.
I noticed with the increased boost torque steer is now a problem. I drove the car last year at almost the same boost level and never had felt this type of torque steer. I guess I need to learn to hold the wheel better haha.
Lastely managed to get 31.1 MPG today, and new best!!! I think it was because I drove almost 200 miles in the rain with the GF so I was driving very responsible.
I redid the front brakes over the weekend. The previous owner bought all new brakes for it but just never installed them. Last year after fixing some other problems I installed them all (rotors, pads, drums, shoes) after putting on over 15000 miles its had tons of pulsing brakes and very high pedal effort.I worked on the rear first and replaced the two drum because I could tell they were our of round by the wear pattern and how they felt while adjusting them. But after that I still had bad brake pulse problem. So the last weekend I had bought fully loaded calipers with unknown pads and brand new rotors. The first thing I noticed was the pad differencethe metal backing plates are the same its just the pad material is so much larger. I think the previous owner bought rotors for a GLH and pads for a standard omni.Since the swap the braking has been very smooth and seams a little more powerful
Good to see you're still working on the car. I took nearly a year off from my GLHS but am picking the project back up now that the weather has cooled off. Your floor repair looks really good.
Ok been fighting a problems that seams to be getting worse with the cooler weather.
Car
85 GLH-T stock 2.2 converted to T2 87 electronics, with a Mopar Stg2 computer. Also have front mount intercooler
Symptom
In the morning (between 50-65F) any aggressive driving results in misfires and sometimes a loud back fire. Most noticable when I get on the highway in 4th I will roll on the throttle between 1/3 and 1/2 throttle build boost about 8lbs and it will hicup and missfire. This is after about 5 miles and car has been running for over 10 mins warmed up but probably not completely up to temp. After driving for over 30mins these misfires are less noticiable and almost gone, but if I do floor it I will sometimes get a large ignition cut with a loud backfire.
Scan tool
I got a hold of my friends OTC4000E and went for a quick drive, unfortuntely by the time I went for a drive the engine was fully up to temp and the outside air temp was already 70F. but here is some things I noticed
Speed sensor reading 000mph all the time, code 23
Durning a 4th gear WOT roll on
Map sensor Volts between 4.4-4.8v
intake air temp 120F
Knock Active Yes (but only high in the RPM and it was quick)
Knock ret 0 each cylinder
Knock voltage (did not see)
Adv timing steady at 11 degrees
Coolant temp 195ish
And of course durning this pull I only had a very small hicup
So my hope is that the knock sensor uses the speed sensor some how, and not seeing it is screwing it up.
Any thoughts?
Why is your timing advance on the scanner steady at 11 degrees? Shouldn't it be increasing with engine speed and manifold vacuum? Are you sure your coolant temp sensor wiring is good from the ECM to the sensor by the thermostat? Also check your distributor rotor and plug wire ends, though that shouldn't be temp dependent. The engine shouldn't misfire unless your A/F ratio is off or your timing is out of wack.
As far as the speed sensor goes, it really doesn't affect much besides idle speed. If the car idles high or dies coming to a stop, the speed sensor is the cause. Put a timing light on it and make sure the advance increases with engine speed or at least moves around.
I am not sure what the timing curve is with boost but this was about 13lbs of boost. Also the A/F ratio was steady at about 12.5.
I questioned the coolant temp sensor and wiring but watching the scan tool it always reads good.
I have looked over the distributor but I need to double check it, along with the plugs, I think they have almost 20K on them.
Make sure all the wires are pressed all the way into the distributor cap. There's a chance some of the terminals aren't all the way in. When I install wires, I normally remove the cap and pull the wires in with pliers to make sure they're fully seated. Normally the ignition is pretty reliable so you should be able to find the problem without too much trouble.
This morning went through and pulled my spark plugs. They were pretty warn out and over 0.040 gap. I cleaned them up and gapped them a little under 0.030, I also replaced the spark plug wires as they were looking a little tired.
I was just about done when I thought about the HEP wiring. I looked at the plugs and they were fine but the wiring on the harness side were brittle cracked and all three wires were twisted up and showing copper. I cleaned them all up tapped up all three wires and rerouted them a little better to prevent anything getting pinched or twisted.
Took it for a test drive and no hicup or stumble. the real test would be tomorrow morning on the way to work.
Okay I have been busy today.
After the success of this morning, I decided to look into my Air cleaner set. When I first did all the plumbing for the intercooler It did not leave me much room for the air cleaner. Below is a picture of my current set up but before today the bend going to the air cleaner was not there and it was actually just sitting under the BOV in all the hot wash from the rad.
So just moving the air cleaner to behind the battery was a big improvement for getting colder air. But I started thinking a shroud would really help, and I have been holding onto this riding mower bagger tube for a whole now thinking it could be used for something like this.
So after a lot of cutting and test fits I got this.
It might not look like much but it actually boxes off the air cleaner area very well. I also took some more the of plastic and blocked off some of the openings next to the IC to prevent air going around the IC and rad. The new step is to take my spare headlight bucket and trim to allow more air into the opening that feed the PM and goes into my new air box.
Also I took it for a quick drive and noticed a good drop in Charge temp from before, cruseing around I am right around 100F and after some traffic its closer to 120F so I thinking I just knocked about 20F off the intake temp. I also had a nice run with a very clean El Camino. he came up behind me pretty fast on a 50mph road just as the two cars in front of me were taking a turn. So I dropped it to 3rd and got on it all the way through third he was probably 3 cars back but ever so slightly falling behind. I shifted into 4th and got back on it but by then he had given up. I felt pretty good about that, no idea what the car had for HP or anything. All I know is it had a really nice paint job and rims.
So good weekend for the WonkBox
The Car has been pretty good execpt for the 1 issue I posted here
The semi Shrouded Air Cleaner is working better but it still could be a lot better. This morning it was 48F out when I left for work, my battery temp went from 67 (was in the garage) to 52 once I got on the highway, but my Intake air temp slowly crept up to about 88F on the highway as the coolant temp finally settled in around 199F.
I would really like to see the Intake air temp be only a couple degrees warmer then the Battery temp. Is this just to much to ask for on a L body omni with the intercooler directly in front of the RAD?
Provided I dont have any more issues I plan on trying to get to the drag strip in the next couple weeks to see what it will do. My best time last year was a 15.7 @ 87mph with stock T1 log and a 3" exhuast. And now being a T2 car with a FMIC it feels WAY faster!
Took the WonkBox to the track last night.
it was probably mid 50s for temp.
RT 0.567
60' 2.475
330 6.717
1/8 9.946 @ 77.02
1000 12.699
1/4 14.967 @ 99.96
So I was a little disappointed at the overall time, but extremly happy about the MPH. My best MPH of the night was 100.6 and my best 60ft was 2.37. I was able to run 15.005 with my girlfriend in the car. When I had her get out my MPH went up but launching was much more difficult. I could only do half throttle in 1st, and in 2nd it would still spin.
Obviosuly my 60ft is terrible, but I was also suffering huge boost lag between shifts. I think the cheepo Ebay BOV is not closing quick enough, I was running about 15psi (creap to 16psi in 4th) and was seeing about 12.2-12.4 AFR in 4th (in the 11s in 3rd)
Also I got to run a SRT Caliber twice, and both times I tree'd him, got a better 60ft oddly and stayed ahead of him till 4th gear when he would roll right by me. He was running mid 14s to my 15 flats.
FWD, manual, and street tires doesn't make for a good drag time. If you have traction, you'll be in mid 13's.
I usually see 30-40F higher temperature in my intake than the ambient temperature in my GLH.
Get some fresh tires up front and get your BOV sorted out. You should be in the 13's in no time at all. For some reason 2.4 60' times are more common than you'd think on 5sp L bodies. Then again, 1.8 60' times also aren't uncommon! It may be some time for a pair of drag radials if you want to aim for the 12's. My old Shelby Charger ran 12.68 @ 108 with a stock turbo and an Eagle Talon intercooler @ 18psi!
not bad for a fairly stock car. drop those 60's down and the et will drop as well!!
I am going to try and go to the track one more time before it closes for the year. I'm hoping for sunny but cool saturday test and tune. The track will be way better prepped then Wed night.
Also if I can get one of my friends to come up I will unload the car (Big tool box, some misc spare parts, spare tire, and jack) probably 100lbs worth of crap. I also was running at 3/4 of a tank, so if I plan it better for a 1/4 tank of full.
Maybe all that plus a real BOV (or I will just disconnect it for one run) I might make a sub 14.5 pass.
Well never made it to the track, mixture of being very busy, a couple car issues and a Hurricane.
One problem I was facing was the engine temp not holding very well, it was really hot in traffic and really cold on the highway. I finally got around to pulling the thermostat housing but of course I can never be so lucky. The stud snapped flush to the head and because of the location I could not get a normal drill in place to drill it out. So I spend most of a saturday and some of a sunday working on it. I started with the welder but after a couple failed attempts I moved onto a right angle drill, but even with that I had to remove the radiator. I did get it out and even managed to save the threads.
In the process I did find out that Autozone has 192F thermostats (instead of 195), the opening is way bigger then the one I had in there and does not have any rubber seal (thats what failed on the other thermostat) So I drilled my 1/16th bleed hole and filled it up and its been very good now.
Other then that I finally hit max boost right around 18psi, it runs to almost 13:1 AFR so I need some +20s or even +40s, And in 4th gear after about 3-5secs it will hit boost cut. So I will turn it down to 17psi for the rest of the season (basically once the salt trucks come out)
I have a good list of things to do over the winter, here is what I am thinking.
AC components install
New Timing belt tensioner
88 TBI roller cam, and PT lifters
rework my Air intake out of the engine bay and upgrade to 3" pipe
swap out leaking BOV
Lastly if I get to it
Cut out rusty quarter and weld in new one
bang out dented rear wheel arch
smooth out roll pan
remove rear bumper and install block off plates
But I really hate body work so we will see how far I get.
100mph is great for what little you have into the car so far! Get it down to a 2.0 and you'll be a high 13 or very low 14. 2.1 is doable on decent street tires.
Originally Posted by 22mopar
Steve
'90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'92 IROC R/T - red
'67 Barracuda 273 now, 440/727 awaits....
What is the best FWD drag launch technique?
I would start with no burn out (open diff)
keep the revs about 2500 and do a very quick slip of the clutch.
Once the clutch was out completely I would apply throttle until boost and rpm were too much for the tires and then spin.
Then I would shift into second and floor it, but again once boost hit I would actually spin the tires for a sec but I would just stay in it, and eventually it would hook and I would shift at about 5200rpm into 3rd
The ride 3rd to about 5400rpm
I feel like maybe slipping the clucth more might help. Also maybe stiffing up the rear springs (new but still really soft). Also not sure if winding out 1st or short shifting to 2nd would help prevent tires trying to spin in 2nd
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