Wonk Box GLH-T

[AzShadow]

Nice! 2nd picture..lifting a wheel?

[Directconnection]

Good work... Keep on keepin' on!

[roachjuice]

you have to watch out with those, mine came with a locking nut and I slapped it on in car not knowing that said nut was jamming on my oil feed line.

+1. I've had that happen before.

[PunKid]

I had lots a fun at the AutoX and I have another one on the 16th that I will bring my Go Pro to.

I need to improve alot, I had 2 friends that were co driving the Mazda 2 beat me. Granted only by a second (errr 5 sec with the 2 cones I hit) but none the less the mazda 2 handles about the same as my car but I make a lot more power.

I also plan on doing another experiment tomorrow and wire open my wastegate to determine if its the diameter of the hole or the arm sticking causing my boost creep.

[PunKid]

Pulled the exhaust and swing valve down and confirmed that everything was moving freely. After putting it all back together I wired the swing valve wide open and ran it up the road. In 3rd gear I have zero boost until about 3000rpm and then it slowly makes boost all the way up to about 12lbs.

So I guess I need to port the wastegate hole. But for now I will just drive it until it really starts to annoy me.

I have determined the cause was a bunch of little things.

I probably had a one or two pounds of boost creep last year, but did not notice or care much.
TBI roller cam and rockers
PT cruiser Lifters
3" intake tube
better BOV
better clamped intercooler pipes
+18% injectors

So I think you add all those up with my other mods and you get creep.

[PunKid]

I just finished up another AutoX but I was only able to run the car in the morning session. the last run it started knocking real bad, and when I got back to the pit area we listened and it sounds like rod bearings. Look for another post in about a week with my findings. The second half of my day my friend was nice enough to let me co drive his BMW 135I. Twin turbo inline 6 is a lot of fun!

Here is two videos from the morning, the second one is when I broke.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iWm...e_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_9k...e_gdata_player

[PunKid]

I spent the last couple weeks pulling down the pan and inspecting everything. Here is what I found.







So I had two rod bearing basically gone (1 and 4), although they never spun and they also never clogged the oil passage in the connecting rod completely which I think is what saved my crank and my wrist pins. The only Main bearing that looked rough is the center thrust bearing. Can anyone confirm if this bearing from the factory should have a groove on both halves?

I also ran into a weird oil pump problem which I listed here.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ion&highlight=


I did find some babbit material in the pan, and when I cut open the oil filter I found a bunch more. I will be running some cheap oil for about 500 miles to try and collect the rest of the babbit material in the filter.

I was able to get it all back together and driving again. So far its been good and the noise it gone. Once I flush this oil out I will run some new synthetic oil and crank the boost back up.

[Pat]

Hey Pat...yes, the thrust bearing should have a groove on both bearing halves. Glad to see its running again!

Pat

[Directconnection]

You should have dis-assembled the motor as that bearing material also be in all the oil passages in the block, head, and possibly turbo.... you might be ok.

[PunKid]

Yea I was afraid of that thrust bearing having a groove on both sides. I was not able to change out the number 5 main bearing but all the others were good, just that thrust bearing

I think the matrial has mostly been collected by the filter. The pan only had a couple bigger peices in it (to big I think to fit through the pickup mesh) and when I removed the valve cover I could not find any uptop. Depending on how much material I see in the filter after 500 miles will let me know.

I eventually I want to build a 2.5 block with some real parts so loosing the motor is not a huge deal, I would just perfer it to happen towards the end of the season. haha.

[PunKid]

Ok, winter is closing in on new england fast and I have a pretty good list of things to do to the car.

Cut out rusted quater and B-pillar, and weld in new metal
Install A/C
pull entire front subframe and suspesion, new poly bushings, new K-frame and possible Dual pivot
new transmision
Install magasquirt maybe


So my big question is in regards to the dual pivot K frame.

There is a T2 lebaron at the junkyard that I think has the A555 trans as well as the dual pivot K frame and arms

My reason for the dual pivot K frame and arms is my K frame is cracked and I think bent as is, so I need a new one. I want to upgrade to poly bushings for AutoX and drag racing but I can see how a Poly stub shaft bushing would really bind up the suspension. I realize the dual pivot K frames never came in a L-body so I would need to cut it up and remove an approximent inch out of it. I'm not to concerned about the fabrication of the K frame, I actually had a conversation with Pat at the 2013 GRM challenge on how he would approch it and I kinda like his idea.

My question is to any that have either done the swap or been able AutoX both a stub shaft and dual pivot cars is the suspension difference that noticable? I just finished my first year autoX and I have no intend of becoming competitve but similar to drag racing if there is something I can to do to improve the performance for little cost just time I am all for it. I also figure when I weld up the K frame I can calculate out the width to include more camber adjustment

[Punish'nRice]

Hey you got a pic of your cold air intake splash cover?

[PunKid]

not at the moment. next time I am out in the garage I will take a picture.

What I did is found an old plastic shoot from a riding mower bag collector and I cut it and bend it (with a little heat). the end result was is extented the slash gaurd in front of the tire between the outer fender and the frame rail and all the way down to the bottom of the fender. So there is an opening at the very bottom (maybe 5X5) that is fully surrounded (core support, frame, home made splash shield, and outer fender). I had wanted to make a bottom shield to, but you would have to make sure it could drain in a heavy rain as well as allow enough air into the chamber, this is why I left it open for now. I drive it in the rain but not a lot so its not really a big concern for me.

[Punish'nRice]

Ok, cool.