Wow i was with the kid with the blue shirt right next to you. Sucks it would have been cool to meet ya. Well next time and glad to see you getting back to work on the car
Wow i was with the kid with the blue shirt right next to you. Sucks it would have been cool to meet ya. Well next time and glad to see you getting back to work on the car
I was driving but after the runs while letting the car cool down i was standing with him lol. Fix it cheap for some fun is a good plan then during the winter do a build
Yeah, I ordered a single ring set today. If nothing else a quickie in car hone job will be a good experience
Carnage!
Came right out by pushing with my thumbs. super easy
Bore still looks good considering. Gonna have to acquire the services of a bottle hone real soon
I had ONE set of 2.2 pistons lying around (89 CB). One was cracked in two, one dented on top with big divots that took it out of round, one rusted to death, and this one that looked promising
Half a can of carb cleaner and a couple quality minutes with the wire wheel and we're in business!
That was a pretty toasted piston!
Got a ball hone on the way!
Got the good piston separated and ready to go on the melted piston's good conrod. I'm about as far as I can go until parts and tools arrive.
Check the rod and make sure it is still round, etc. Also check the bearing shells and clearance. The things that melted the piston also put a lot of stress on those parts as well.
I'm all for wire wheeling anything and everything as long as you don't gouge it!
Having said that, do i trust my students with a wire wheel? No.. lol
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Rod was in great shape (it ran well enough after the head swap I had NO idea there was a hole in it till the smoke started) The bearing was good on one side and showing copper on the other. Currently waiting on a new Clevite 77.
Oil pan was a filthy rusty mess. Wire wheeled the majority of the cancer off the surface and put a can of brake cleaner all over both the inside and out then hit it with a coat of DCU Tan. I figure any leaks will show easy.
Got the cb mahle cleaned and mounted
Mmmm Stds :P
Installed
Got Beth to spray the walls while I cut it. Seems to look good. Block and crank are still in car. I got a plastic bag hung across and over the crank and a doubled square of cardboard (to protect the bag and the crank) tomorrow I'll grab a couple more cans of brake cleaner, pull the guards and hose it (then probably douse it in oil. lol)
Nice itll be running in no time
New bearing showed today so popped it back in with my expensive ring compressor
And its all in and torqued. I'll start getting it back together this week assuming work is still slow.
Pan is in, head is in torqued and sealed. Gonna keep working on it in and around football.
Progress shot from a couple hours ago
And shes all buttoned up (yep my camber is WAAY off) Oil is in and she just needs water and a shove outside to try for a start.
She fired in about a half crank. Little bit of tap as the head pumped up but she sounded REALLY good
And very reminiscent of our first ride together, snuck her around the block with no reg and shakey brakes. Gave it a little gas and she blew the upper charge pipe off. I love this *****.
we need more video of the driver in that film
Haha, unlikely. Shes pretty adamant about keeping herself out of media. :P
Today I got the charge pipe bolted back up and set initial timing (gun pickup was screwing up. gotta look at that later) took another spin around the block and confirmed that it would actually rev and spool now. Brakes still felt like crap and the light was on. turns out theres a HUGE crack in the metal line right at drivers rear. Explains all the smoke. Haha
Probably wont get the car to the shop until next week maybe. In the meantime I've been reading up on how to depower a steering rack (For those that dont remember, my Intake manifold blocks the cap of the pump reservoir and my stock line was leaking like a sieve. Theres possibly another reason to go to manual...but lets not talk about that until it happens :P)
Anyway, heres a link:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=2
Basically you crack it apart and remove the cylinder and seals then grease it up and seal it. All the advantages of a manual rack while keeping the fast ratio and not having to dick around with couplers.
If I'm not working at the shop tomorrow I'll try to yank the rack out of my parts car and give it a go (with pics!)