R134a a/c compressor in a Omni

[tryingbe]

I want to put an R134A compressor in a 85 Dodge Omni. Are there a/c hoses from a car that I can use that would be a bolt-on to an Omni?

[shackwrrr]

a compressor is a compressor, The stock compressor works the same for r134a. Hoses, if run with r12/ester at one time are fine to run with r134a. If the hoses are bad, any new hose for the omni will hold 134 fine. The receiver drier Im unsure about, you're supposed to change that for a r134a compatible unit but I dont think anyone does.

[135sohc]

Are you swapping to the denso compressor ?

[turbovanman²]

Just use the OE R12 stuff, use a NEW reciever/dryer, refill with some pag oil, proper amount of R134a.

Now just to piss everyone off, R134a is being phased out and ANOTHER F*CKING freon is being introduced,

[86Shelby]

Simon, did ya know that walmart sells tetraflouroethane for less than 1/2 price of what part stores sell it for? Go to the outdoors section and look for the airhorns; either 12 or 16oz cans(same ones advance/napa sells) with a horn for $7.99! Works great hooking up to a regular set of manifold guages.

[turbovanman²]

Simon, did ya know that walmart sells tetraflouroethane for less than 1/2 price of what part stores sell it for? Go to the outdoors section and look for the airhorns; either 12 or 16oz cans(same ones advance/napa sells) with a horn for $7.99! Works great hooking up to a regular set of manifold guages.

Thanks, but that reminds me, our Princess Auto sells "Duracool" for $15 a can, you need 2, but my machine won't evac it, so I will switch to that and just vent it, all it is ultra clean propane,

[A.J.]

a compressor is a compressor, The stock compressor works the same for r134a.

Not out here. The old R12 compressors can't handle the heat of AZ and the higher pressures that R134a creates. They are the worst compressor for the R134a conversion. They might work in the north with 80* temps and 100% humidity but 115* is another story. I spent years after I moved here trying to get R134a and the R12 compressor to work and not fail. I switched to the R134a compressor (out of a junkyard to boot) and five years with front and rear a/c with no problems.

A.J.

[shackwrrr]

Not out here. The old R12 compressors can't handle the heat of AZ and the higher pressures that R134a creates. They are the worst compressor for the R134a conversion. They might work in the north with 80* temps and 100% humidity but 115* is another story. I spent years after I moved here trying to get R134a and the R12 compressor to work and not fail. I switched to the R134a compressor (out of a junkyard to boot) and five years with front and rear a/c with no problems.

A.J.

I looked it up and the compressor is different, a590 vs 10pa17c. Most systems Ive messed with use the same compressor all the way through.

[vcrpro3]

Any pictures of that setup? The 87 LeBaron is undrivable for me in this heat due to dead AC...never did work right with r134 conversion anyway...luckily i have a 87 NY'er as a bu for now with working R12 AC.....

Not out here. The old R12 compressors can't handle the heat of AZ and the higher pressures that R134a creates. They are the worst compressor for the R134a conversion. They might work in the north with 80* temps and 100% humidity but 115* is another story. I spent years after I moved here trying to get R134a and the R12 compressor to work and not fail. I switched to the R134a compressor (out of a junkyard to boot) and five years with front and rear a/c with no problems.

A.J.

[A.J.]

Any pictures of that setup? The 87 LeBaron is undrivable for me in this heat due to dead AC...never did work right with r134 conversion anyway...luckily i have a 87 NY'er as a bu for now with working R12 AC.....

Get an a/c compressor, a/c compressor/alternator bracket (you can't use the R12 compressor bracket), and lines off of a '93/'94 R134a and later 2.2/2.5 car. If you can't find lines you can have some made relatively cheaply but you at least need the ends that connect to the compressor. It's also a good idea to flush the system of old oil and put in the oil that the compressor requires. I don't recommend using ester oil unless you don't flush the system. I had to have all kinds of lines built for my van because 4 cylinder, short wheel base vans never came with rear air. My system blows 71* at 115* ambient in city traffic, down in the low 60's high 50's on the highway. Under 110* ambient it blows 65* and lower.

A.J.

[shackwrrr]

[QUOTE=A.J.;826144]Get an a/c compressor, a/c compressor/alternator bracket (you can't use the R12 compressor bracket), and lines off of a '93/'94 R134a and later 2.2/2.5 car. If you can't find lines you can have some made relatively cheaply but you at least need the ends that connect to the compressor. It's also a good idea to flush the system of old oil and put in the oil that the compressor requires. I don't recommend using ester oil unless you don't flush the system. I had to have all kinds of lines built for my van because 4 cylinder, short wheel base vans never came with rear air. My system blows 71* at 115* ambient in city traffic, down in the low 60's high 50's on the highway. Under 110* ambient it blows 65* and lower.

A.J.[/QUOTE

Damn, Im used to crappy systems putting out 47 degree air. Good systems putting out just over freezing. I hate the humidity though.

[83rampage]

Thanks, but that reminds me, our Princess Auto sells "Duracool" for $15 a can, you need 2, but my machine won't evac it, so I will switch to that and just vent it, all it is ultra clean propane,

The Duracool, (and other brand names) is called "R12A". I'm sure you can buy it locally and use it instead of R134, and can be bought in a kit with a fitting to add it yourself.. It is supposed to run at lower compressor discharge pressure than R134 also.

As Simon said, it is just propane, but works well, and is easy to get. I would bother with R134 at all.

Heres a link:http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html

[vcrpro3]

Is what is sold as 'Freeze 12' around here the same as 'R12A'?. That is what my 87 NY'er has in it and works reasonably well..... Tried some of that in the LeBaron, but the compressor is shot and if i'm going to put any money in it, might as well do a proper conversion......

The Duracool, (and other brand names) is called "R12A". I'm sure you can buy it locally and use it instead of R134, and can be bought in a kit with a fitting to add it yourself.. It is supposed to run at lower compressor discharge pressure than R134 also.

As Simon said, it is just propane, but works well, and is easy to get. I would bother with R134 at all.

Heres a link:http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html

[turbovanman²]

Duracool is selling brand new compressors for $150 and they list one for our cars/vans, 8 valve of course,

http://www.duracool.com/ecom/compressorcart.html

[vcrpro3]

What do i use to flush the A/C system?


[QUOTE=shackwrrr;826148]

Get an a/c compressor, a/c compressor/alternator bracket (you can't use the R12 compressor bracket), and lines off of a '93/'94 R134a and later 2.2/2.5 car. If you can't find lines you can have some made relatively cheaply but you at least need the ends that connect to the compressor. It's also a good idea to flush the system of old oil and put in the oil that the compressor requires. I don't recommend using ester oil unless you don't flush the system. I had to have all kinds of lines built for my van because 4 cylinder, short wheel base vans never came with rear air. My system blows 71* at 115* ambient in city traffic, down in the low 60's high 50's on the highway. Under 110* ambient it blows 65* and lower.

A.J.[/QUOTE

Damn, Im used to crappy systems putting out 47 degree air. Good systems putting out just over freezing. I hate the humidity though.

[A.J.]

A/C flush. You can get it at most auto repair stores. Get the stuff in metal containers because it evaporates faster. You're also going to need a flush gun http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-17595.../dp/B000O1A4HY Your also going to have to take the expansion valve, compressor, and receiver/drier out of the system to flush it.

A.J.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Hello guys,
I just picked up the A/C lines, compressor, dryer, fan, etc, from an 89 4cyl Voyager at the junkyard for $40. I want to have the A/C system working again in my 89 turbo van. Since I ripped out the entire system years back, I have a few questions: At the firewall, I pulled off the aluminum block that is held on with torques screws. Now the fitting at the firewall is covered in grease and soot from under the hood. How should I clean this before installing the line? I plan to basically install the parts, buy a new dryer and condenser, and take it to a shop to have the system charged.

Simon says 134a is getting phased out? Will the shop be able to put some type of freon in that will work, be it the 12a that someone mentioned?

Great news for me is, when I pulled the parts I needed at the yard, the system was still under full pressure, so the lines must be good. I would assume I should have the gaskets replaced?

Sorry for the tread hijack, and thanks for any information
-Lee

[vcrpro3]

The 'block' at the firewall is the expansion valve. Don't bother cleanining it; get a new one, they're usually about $20.00 or less and having a new one can't do anything but help. If you or a shop does the the recharge, i would opt for the R12a if they can do it. Until the compressor failed in my 87 New Yorker, the system worked fine in Arizona with R12a.

Hello guys,
I just picked up the A/C lines, compressor, dryer, fan, etc, from an 89 4cyl Voyager at the junkyard for $40. I want to have the A/C system working again in my 89 turbo van. Since I ripped out the entire system years back, I have a few questions: At the firewall, I pulled off the aluminum block that is held on with torques screws. Now the fitting at the firewall is covered in grease and soot from under the hood. How should I clean this before installing the line? I plan to basically install the parts, buy a new dryer and condenser, and take it to a shop to have the system charged.

Simon says 134a is getting phased out? Will the shop be able to put some type of freon in that will work, be it the 12a that someone mentioned?

Great news for me is, when I pulled the parts I needed at the yard, the system was still under full pressure, so the lines must be good. I would assume I should have the gaskets replaced?

Sorry for the tread hijack, and thanks for any information
-Lee

[Lee'sdaytona]

Yeah, but the expansion valve itself is nice and clean from the junker car. The problem is, where the expansion valve attaches to the firewall, that connection is all dirty. How should I clean this?
thanks,
Lee
PS: What is the best way to replace gaskets? Do they sell a gasket kit? Basically just remove the old, clean with something (?) and reinstall new gaskets?

[A.J.]

Yeah, but the expansion valve itself is nice and clean from the junker car. The problem is, where the expansion valve attaches to the firewall, that connection is all dirty. How should I clean this?
thanks,
Lee
PS: What is the best way to replace gaskets? Do they sell a gasket kit? Basically just remove the old, clean with something (?) and reinstall new gaskets?

Cap the holes then clean it with brake clean. Remove the caps, swab the inside the best you can with a q-tip dipped in solvent then flush out with a/c flush like I instructed Al to do.

Keep your old gaskets and bring them to the parts store to match them up. Don't reuse the old ones.

A.J.