1990 VNT Daytona 2.4 Project

**Vigo** · 06-20-2011, 02:26 PM

I think they should end up on the best looking car, so id say either put them on yours, or only give them to someone with a 1st gen that's equally nice (body wise).

**ShelGame** · 06-20-2011, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by Vigo

I think they should end up on the best looking car, so id say either put them on yours, or only give them to someone with a 1st gen that's equally nice (body wise).

I'm not sure if I like the look. Though, they should keep it a little cooler inside on sunny days. But, don't they also rattle a bit? I want a nice quiet daily driver. Stealth almost...

**Juggy** · 06-20-2011, 02:46 PM

they only rattle if u have crappy old screws.

i wanted to get some new dzus pins for my louvers, but i think they charger has a different pin....

**Directconnection** · 06-20-2011, 11:19 PM

Originally Posted by shackwrrr

91+ has cast and good geometry, 90 is dual pivot stamped and crap geometry

Some people do prefer the '89-90 style for the unsprung weight savings over the better roll center. (Jay) I prefer the 91+ style, but Chris Stills used the '89-90 style that he modified to have the best of both worlds. He made a special ball joint extension, and with others, I've heard of a few instances of cross pollinating the two styles for a hybrid.... but I'd rather not chance making it worse and just going with the factory's geometry improvements.

**Force Fed Mopar** · 06-21-2011, 12:32 AM

There's not a hell of a lot of difference in the balljoint location between the two lca's. I think rbryant measured it at a 1/4"? IIRC a lot of the added caster came from relocated strut towers on the 91-up. I'd bet that just swapping control arms won't provide any noticeable advantage or difference in steering feel.

The 1/4" inch extra will push the tire forward in the wheel well a bit, and depending on tire size it can rub. I tried to run 225/60/16's on the front of my '87 w/ the complete 91-up front suspension and they would not clear the ends of the chin spoiler.

**supercrackerbox** · 06-21-2011, 05:04 AM

I'm not big on louvres on a Daytona, but it does do a LOT for keeping the car cooler inside. But if they'll fit the '90, they won't fit an '84-'86 car.

But yes, all that was in the car when I had it was the dash, carpet, and rear side panels.

**ShelGame** · 06-21-2011, 07:48 AM

Originally Posted by supercrackerbox

But yes, all that was in the car when I had it was the dash, carpet, and rear side panels.

How long ago was that? And how long did you have it? Trying to get an idea on how long the thing has been off the road.

The louvers seem to fit it OK. They're a little close at the bottom near the spoiler. I didn't try the mounting hardware at all, just set them on there. They'll at least keep the sun off the interior parts in the hatch.

**supercrackerbox** · 06-21-2011, 01:10 PM

I bought it in March of '07 and sold it November 29th of '07. I don't know how long it had been sitting before that, but when I drove down to Sedalia to look at it, it was as you've seen it, minus any suspension. The guy was also selling a pretty clean black/silver '86 Shelby Charger. The "shop" I had it in was a dank little dugout garage that I was renting from a guy with a lawn and garden business.

**ShelGame** · 06-21-2011, 01:21 PM

Originally Posted by supercrackerbox

I bought it in March of '07 and sold it November 29th of '07. I don't know how long it had been sitting before that, but when I drove down to Sedalia to look at it, it was as you've seen it, minus any suspension. The guy was also selling a pretty clean black/silver '86 Shelby Charger. The "shop" I had it in was a dank little dugout garage that I was renting from a guy with a lawn and garden business.

So, it was just a bare body? No suspension at all? Wonder why it was stripped down. Seems to be a clean body to me. But, then I'm used to rusted out hulks here in Michigan. Maybe the little bit of rust on the drivers floor is "too far gone" if you're in Missouri...

**supercrackerbox** · 06-21-2011, 01:28 PM

I don't know really. I tried looking for the for sale thread but couldn't find it. I'm pretty sure it was on Turbododge.

**ShelGame** · 07-04-2011, 01:11 PM

OK, so this morning, I put the 1-1/4" swaybar up under the k-frame. I don't see any reason why it won't work. Of course, I don't have any swaybar bushings at all in there. But, it sure seems to fit. I may have it upside down, too. Which probably helps with the clearance to the cast arms. Now I gotta find a set of inner bushings for the cast arm k-frame that fit 1-1/4" bars...

**Force Fed Mopar** · 07-04-2011, 08:52 PM

The ends are different, Rob. Where the old bar kinda turns back parallel w/ the center, the cast bar does not. The cast arms are also made for a round bushing instead of the old square one. You may be able to get the old one in there and bolted up, but it will never fit right.

I have a complete '93 front suspension (minus struts) in my '87, and I love it. Rides much better than the 89-older suspension, and I don't much miss the 1.25 swaybar. I have a 1" bar off an ES Shadow, and it works good.

BTW, a cast arm and stamp arm k-frame are the same. Only difference is the lca's and the swaybar.

**ShelGame** · 07-05-2011, 12:10 AM

Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar

The ends are different, Rob. Where the old bar kinda turns back parallel w/ the center, the cast bar does not. The cast arms are also made for a round bushing instead of the old square one. You may be able to get the old one in there and bolted up, but it will never fit right.

I have a complete '93 front suspension (minus struts) in my '87, and I love it. Rides much better than the 89-older suspension, and I don't much miss the 1.25 swaybar. I have a 1" bar off an ES Shadow, and it works good.

BTW, a cast arm and stamp arm k-frame are the same. Only difference is the lca's and the swaybar.

Why couldn't I use the round bushing? This swaybar has smaller ends (1"?). I swear, it certainly looks like the swaybar ends line up perfectly with the pockets in the cast arms. Length looks about right, too. Maybe tomorrow I'll flip it over and see what it looks like.

**turbovanman²** · 07-05-2011, 01:35 AM

I voted #2, I think 5 digits posted up in other discussion's and long rod engines etc and found no gains etc from it except RPM life. Rbryant makes the dizzy adapter, and its cheap.

Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar

BTW, a cast arm and stamp arm k-frame are the same. Only difference is the lca's and the swaybar.

You forgot sub strut, different K-member,

Originally Posted by ShelGame

Why couldn't I use the round bushing? This swaybar has smaller ends (1"?). I swear, it certainly looks like the swaybar ends line up perfectly with the pockets in the cast arms. Length looks about right, too. Maybe tomorrow I'll flip it over and see what it looks like.

What control arms? Cast use the round bushing, stamped, use the square. PB sells the bushings seperately so you dont' need to buy a few sets to mix and match.

**Force Fed Mopar** · 07-05-2011, 01:44 AM

Yeah I dunno, I'm just going by what I've been told. I never thought about using the round bushings on it. Try it and see, nothing to lose

**BadAssPerformance** · 07-05-2011, 06:39 PM

Subscribed

**ShelGame** · 07-06-2011, 09:30 PM

OK, the dash and carpet are out (along with the acorn shells and rodent poop). Pics...

**ShelGame** · 07-08-2011, 04:14 PM

Going to try and get the rest of the old interior out tonight and tomorrow along with fixing that little spot of rust shown above...

**ShelGame** · 07-09-2011, 02:57 PM

Got the old gray interior all out this morning. Also found more rust to repair. What's the best way to repair the edges of the floor? Most of the Daytona rust I've seen is in the middle of the floor...