I know Cory said his clutch felt fine to drive "semi-daily" from what i remember. Brent would know more than me. Personally i have a clutchmasters stage 3 in my srt-4 and its perfect for a DD but it also doesn't hold the power of a 6 puck ACT. My srt-4 isn't 400hp either though. I probably wouldn't put a puck clutch in a DD myself either to be honest.
It's time to invent the hydraulic clutch with a boost referenced accumulator/booster .... like brake vacuum assist only backwards.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
clutch is already here, its a TU 6puck with "heavy duty" pressure plate
should hold the power i want
ive driven a 6puck turbo laser and it wasnt HORRID but deff not preferable for a DD.
tuner studio keeps freezing on me
great
i had my MSII wired and the car was starting.. it didnt run the best but it started
my original wiring job was a poor one ( i made a 60pin adapter and the pins liked to fall out)
this adapter plugged into my stock engine harness (i simply unplugged the harness from my stock ecu and plugged it into my MS harness with my adapter.)
this time i wired the MS harness directly into my factory harness. I figured as long as my stock ecu was unplugged while im using megasquirt, all would be good. I guess i was wrong
When i have megasquirt turned on, i get power and i get the same readings from my coolant temp and intake temp sensors. so these sensors are wired correctly. I get a good reading from my TPS as well. It calibrated just fine. My wideband also works but this should t effect my starting.
my ignition is a single coil with a distributor. When i turn the key to the on position, my coil gets power and then cuts off (just like it always did, this was verified by my test light)
the injectors do the same thing, they do their priming pulse (verified by my test light, and i can hear it)
now when i crank the engine, i dont get spark or fuel. Tuner studio reads a fuel pulse width of 0ms while cranking and 0 ignition advance.
i know i have the distributor wired correctly. The power wire for the distributor is correct because the car runs with the stock ecu just fine. The grey wire (or white wire with the shielding around it for the dizzy) LOOKS to be correct. i dont see how it couldnt be. I have it pliced directly into the same wire it was before when the car started.
So im getting no fuel or spark when cranking even though i have power to the injectors and coil. Not sure how im supposed to verify the dizzy.. i know it gets power because the car runs all day long.
hope this all made sense
Have you verified that you not getting fuel while cranking? Pull a fuel line and turn it over a little bit and see if you get fuel out the line....I'd put a can or something to catch the fuel in place. If you aren't getting fuel while cranking then obviously theres an issue. Why did you decide against the 60 pin harness? Seemed like a good idea to me.
it was a great idea but the pins fell out easily. It got to the point where to many fell out and i didnt trust it.
I cant remember but i want to say i WASNT getting an rpm signal while cranking
this makes sense, i get injectors pulse when priming, i hear the pump turn on, and the coil makes the test light flash once just like it should. But then when i crank, the MS dosnt know im cranking and therefor dosnt fire anything?
the weird thing is, this is what happened the first time around and i fixed it by switching my 'spark a output pin" to js10. idk why this worked because when i switched it back to the default setting the car still started.
ill look into it later. i have an oil change to get to
i came home to find out a friend of mine passed away last night. there wont be any working on the MS tonight. Ill keep you guys updated when i start to work on it again.
Re: dosnt start AFTER rewire. what did i do wrong
by firefoxx04 on Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:22 pm
Okay so i did a few tests
first test went like so. I had the MS plugged in and stock ecu unplugged
i put a test light on the spliced joint and grounded it to the battery.. and of course when i crank, i get no light.
i then unhooked MS and plugged my stock ecu in.. had the test light still on... cranked the engine and it DIDNT START!!! (weird because the car starts on a dime 100% of the time)
i remove the test light (effectively acting as a ground to the battery) and then the car starts up. this makes me want to think that when my stock ecu is unplugged and MS is plugged in that something is acting as a ground and not letting the current get to my MS
my pin24ignition wire for the MS is spliced into the stock ignition wire coming form my dizzy (wire normally goes to the stock ecu but i figured that sense the stock ecu is unplugged and the MS is plugged in, the wire would send its signal to the MS. (remember, the car runs FINE everyday on the stock ecu with MS unplugged.)
hope that made sense! ill get back at the car later, i need to do a few errands
got my tach signal corrected.. should have the car started in a few min. just need to get the timing right if it does start and i should be able to drive.
trigger angle of 78 (or 79) cant remember
fired her up and it idled high just like usual. No backfiring today.. drove around on fixed 12 timing and it was fun but the real fun started when i loaded eds spark table. im using his Actual project as well.
i had autotune running and it was working great.. 130mph @ 12.4afr
i accidently closed tunerstudio before burning the changes.. i reloaded it and thought i burned them but im not sure. now the afr at wot is 11 (leanest) and 10 (richest) not sure what happend. ran autotune again and it didnt want to do anything
i can daily drive it though.. for some reason its way rich when cruising (it was 14.7 while autotuning the first time..
here are some datalogs (zip file, datalogs.zip)
http://www.gamefront.com/files/20541349/datalogs.zip
one of them is my idle.. it likes to jump from 16.5 lean to 12.5 rich or something like that. rpms also change as it jumps around. it was idling fine when i first started the car.
the other is me doing some normal (sort of normal.. i reved higher than i normally do) driving on the street
the third is a somewhat hard run (never hitting the limiter) showing how rich i am.. it gets in the 10s alot. autotune WAS working but seems to not want to change this. ill try a different VE table tomorrow and see what happens.
timing isnt spot on either... its all by ear.. could be to high could be to low. still need to get the timing light out.
Nothing wrong with some manual adjustment.
Kyle just got his 6262 turbo 3.0 running on MS3 and drove it around the block.
My first couple times driving on megasquirt the car was gulping gasoline down and killing mileage. Get it closer by hand then worry about autotune.
Its okay to be lean as long as its not @ WOT. As long as WOT is safe, go to town on everything else.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
well my first pull to very high speeds scared me (had autotune running)
i was bouncing from 13.2 - 13.8 WOT at high rpm... so i simply let off the gas completely, counted to 3 and mashed it again.. then my afr was 12.4 on the dot all the way to 130mph. Autotune WAS working... then i forgot to save the changes and then for some reason im super rich. im going to nail the timing down tonight before i mess with the tune again.
Keep an eye on your IAT temperatures. If the sensor picks up heat from other components under your hood it will throw off your tune. It gets really annoying when your AFR is different all the time with the same tune. It is typical to lean out when sitting at a traffic light and then it will richen up as the sensor cools off while your moving. This is why I typically put the sensor at the entrance to the air filter, as far away from hot parts as possible (on an N/A car). If you have your sensor screwed into the end of your plenum it might be giving you heat soak issues.
i have mine right before the TB and its poked into a rubber intake hose. that could be it.. its giving WACKY readings. when i first started it up it said 120 degrees and when i was warmed up it was reading 50ish degrees on a 70 degree day
i have a GOOD sensor i bought from diy but it needs to be welded into the intake pipe.. my current one is just a junkyard gm sensor that im using until im boosted.
i dont think the temp sensor is to blame right now
even if the reading is wrong, its still sitting at one spot once the car warms up....
when the car was warming up (coolant temp below 100 f) the intake temp sensor was giving a reallly high reading and the car idled really really well. once its warm and i run it down the road a few times it will start doing the weird pulsing of the injectors giving a wacky afr at idle.
tried a new IAT that i got from DIY and now i get a REAL intake temp reading but the idle pulsing issue is still the same
i dont run super rich anymore...
i changed all the idle spark values to 12* and now it idles smooth (high, due to no idle control) but it does idle smooth.
i need to get the timing light out so i can actually run eds spark table without guessing my timing and trigger angle
Sounds like the difference between an NTC and a PTC thermistor.. i.e. wrong kind of sensor. Were they the same part number?ts giving WACKY readings. when i first started it up it said 120 degrees and when i was warmed up it was reading 50ish degrees on a 70 degree day
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
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