That's awesome! I can't wait to dig into megasquirt.
That's awesome! I can't wait to dig into megasquirt.
its worlds better when you look at it from a performance and troubleshooting perspective. you need patients to make it better for DD ablility though. starting is hard to dial in perfectly.. i get to the point where it starts every time and i call it good. it could be better though. no more stock ecu wire harness = clean engine bay. its funny cuz before i thought my MS install cleaned up the bay ALOT but now it feels cluttered because i forgot what a stock dodge engine bay looks like
Yeah I didn't even think of the wire harness....nice.
I've got a bit of experience with standalaone, i had an MR2 that was AEM powered. However, I didn't mess with it too much as it had a solid tune on it already.
yeah when you run the harness things tend to be a little more tucked than the factory :P
played with some cars the other night
only the the silver bug eye and black wagon wanted to play. idk where all the other cars were.. somewhere behind us. lol
the silver one didnt run with me really.. i guess he saw us filming and thought we just wanted to capture his wastegate. or he was intimidated :P I have no horn.. and ricer reving is a bad way of communicating
i wish i didnt have my wastegate setup wrong causing overboost. if i stayed 8psi through the whole rev range it would have made for a super close race between me and the black wrx. My first time racing him required me to beat the piss out of the car all the way into 5th before i finally passed him (overboosting then too.. to 12psi iirc) now im able to keep with him right from the get go on 8psi. deff. have improved driving and the tune. car still needs lot of work. i should be able to just pull away from him given the weight difference. deff not 300whp yet. cams will move the powerband up but i should be spooling my 8psi much earlier than i am. im not worried though.. im having fun. i think with my open dump WG installed plus 12psi that ill hit my 300whp with a healthy timing map and a safe 11.5:1 ARF. PLus i need to still fix the intercooler piping before the throttle body. ill be able to run a real hardpipe to the throttle body once the motor mount is out of the way (built custom solid mount. I know of a guy who has done it, ill copy his design. just need to get around to it)
been a while sense ive used a cutting torch. kinda turned into a hack job. im much better at welding and building than i am at cutting and destroying.
ready to tack it up. didnt really do much prep work as i dont really care
welded it on
bolted it on
welded on outside and inside. looks like ---- from picture. i know enough o know that the welds are solid though
HOLY TIGHT FIT BATMAN
getto vac lines. i was at school and didnt have a long enough line.. do what you gotta do
haha. Didn't last long on that fun setup you had for 1 drive! I think it would have been okay :P Hopefully his helps your spool so you don't feel like its a waste. I think the wastegate on the rear manifold was actually genius for something that starts out pure crap.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
i am interested onwhere he is going to put the external wastegate at now when is that eting done and where you get the t"s at
Looking good!
a place online called ACE.Originally Posted by paduster
Brent, yeah.. only one driveI really dont know where it will go now. the last spot was perfect as far as ease of install goes.
i could have made it look nicer but all the welds have good penetration () so im not worried. I was going to tig it but we had to trim one of the T pieces and im too lazy to put a bevel on it. with tig and bevels on both sides, it would have been flush as hell and looked nice!
the only other thing that i know hurt spool (im almost positive) is the ductape work. We are going to hack up the passenger motor mount and make a low profile solid mount. This will let me run piping much closer to the throttle body instead of ghetto rubber to rubber held on by ductape and clamps.
if you look at the stock manifold (i didnt get a picture) There is a wall inside of it that forces cyl 1 and 3 to flow all the way to the area that i capped off before it can go to the crossover. it gets pinched off and choked sooooooooo bad. i never really looked into that detail before. it worked, but its ghetto.
---------- Post added at 11:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------
spanks
Since I hadn't dealt with them when I made the recommendation, I am curious your opinion on them.
I was wondering why they welds were not upto your usual standard (no offense.) Did you MIG weld it with ER308L and tri-mix gas?Brent, yeah.. only one drive
i could have made it look nicer but all the welds have good penetration (
Interesting that you went with the 'T' instead of making the flow 'T' like I do... Either way it should be way better than the stock manifold back there.
Have you thought about putting the external wastegate on the rear header or are you just going to run the internal wastegate?
ace shipped fast and had good prices. only downfall is the pieces said tiawan on them. id like to support an american company when it comes to steel.
no offence taken, i know im 10x better.. ive done 10x better with 3/8th thick pipe doing tig root passes and stick cover.
the T pieces made it really easy. just had to trim about 3/8" off on both sides of the middle T.
we mig welded it with c25 and some mild steel wire. not the best choice but ill use what i have available. i could have tig welded with stainless filler but i would have to bug my old welding teacher to let me come in and do it.
as far as the ewg goes.. im going to break the motor in with the internal gate.
this is good for two reasons.
1) the motor is tuned for the crappy overboost prone iwg.
2) i dont know where to put the ewg right now.. its hard to know where it will fit really nicely.
"build thread" for the manifold on a local forum
http://www.xceedspeed.com/forums/sho...96#post4117496
welded up and installable. needs to be cleaned up. The welds could have been better but i dont take my time on things that are for me and not someone else.
its hard to get things right when you have to line things up on the motor and then drive down the road to weld. If i could have tacked it up on the motor we wouldnt have to tape things in place and cross our fingers. it worked though.
a 3/8th inch flange would make things easier. i hacked a crossover flange off of my space crossover and it didnt line up until i grinded it down a bit. thicker header flange would fix this.
for my first ever attempt with very little prep, im satisfied. if i make one for the front, it will be much nicer (because people will notice that one :P) tigged and shiny
The front manifold really isn't as bad as I always thought. Obviously it has much to be desired when you simply look at it.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
That is why at Drag Week I was recommending bolting the stock manifold to a piece of plate steel and building on that. You can work on the bench to make everything fit "just so" and then weld it in place and be confident that it will fit right.
At work I can't see the pictures, but did you cut the flanges between the ports?
i did not cut the fange between the ports. I have concidered it but not sure if its needed or why i would do it.
i know 4g54 guys cut the flange on their stock manifold to releive stress and prevent cracking that they are prone to.
All header flanges should be cut to avoid cracking. Theoretically you can oversize the hole for the outer 4 exhaust studs, but I would still recommend cutting the flange...
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