alos, EDs tune was setup for 25.6# injectors it said.. i changed that to 19#. i still ran WAY lean but it was not backfiring and the idle held its self
alos, EDs tune was setup for 25.6# injectors it said.. i changed that to 19#. i still ran WAY lean but it was not backfiring and the idle held its self
You should be able to just point the light at the timing marker and turn the dizzy until it's at the right setting while running on the stock computer. I'd set it to whatever the factory setting is, I think it's 10 or 12 degrees? That should get the dizzy in the right spot to start from on the MS.
Of course I've never had an MS system so I could be nuts
confusedSetting up the distributor trigger
In Tuner Studio you should setup the idle LED to indicate IRQ. This will make it so that he middle LED will light up whenever the MS tach input is on.
You need to set the dizzy up so that the middle led turns on at whatever trigger angle you choose. If you setup the tach input on MS the way that DiyAutotune says to do it, then the trigger will stay on (middle LED stay on) for 55 degrees for rising edge or 65 degrees for falling edge trigger.
I believe falling edge trigger is the best to use. But you might need to do some trial and error.
So you need to:
Rising edge trigger:
1) Set the crank shaft to 10 degrees BTDC on cylinder #1
2) Turn the dizzy backwards until the middle LED turns on (backwards from the #1 spark terminal in the dizzy cap)
3) Turn the dizzy very slowly forward until the led just turns off and then lock down the dizzy with the bolt.
3) Set the trigger angle in MS to 65
Falling edge:
1) Set the crank shaft to 10 degrees BTDC on cylinder #1
2) Turn the dizzy backwards until the middle LED turns off (backwards from the #1 spark terminal in the dizzy cap)
3) Turn the dizzy very slowly forward until the led just turns off and then lock down the dizzy with the bolt.
3) Set the trigger angle in MS to 75
4) Set the "Cranking timing" to trigger return
5) Set the cranking advance angle to 10 in MS
6) Set a "fixed angle" of 10
7)Verify that at 10 degrees BTDC the rotor is just about to leave the #1 terminal in the cap and at 60 BTDC degrees the rotor is just arriving at the #1 terminal in the cap
8) Get the car to start
9) Verify that you have a 10 BTDC with a timing light with the engine running. Adjust the dizzy to achieve 10 degrees if needed
9) Set the fixed angle back to -10
---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------
im almost 100% sure my o2 sensor bung has a leak. fixing that before i proceed. Should have it welded up good tonight.
ordering from FWD from now on when possible
my TU clutch got here about a month or more ago. but my fuel pump has yet to show up.... i called them last week and they didnt know what was going on..
cindy seems to be on top of everything.. idk why i didnt order from her in the first place
well as of now, fwd has 0 stikes and TU has 1.
fwd called me to follow up on an order of mine to make sure that i was ordering what i really needed.. they also (as far as i know) stock their own parts while TU has "suppliers" ship them to their own customers. So their fuel pump supplier is responsible for me not getting my fuel pump. wth
should have got it from forward motion
What pump are you getting? If I were you, I'd get a Deatschwerks or Jay Racing pump. 300 lph and multi-fuel compatibility.
Funny you say that - I'm still awaiting my Flywheel from TU. Been over a month now. I think it's because - at least in my case - TU doesn't ship themselves, they have many items drop shopped directly from the manufacturers / suppliers.
I think only Foward motion direct ships the Walbros. Walbros are able to run ethanol just fine. Jay Racing Pumps are guaranteed to be made in China btw. Walbro, it depends who you buy from. Drop shipped fuel pumps bother me more because the shipper could be screwing you, OR the person they get their pumps from.
I don't like the idea of buying a drop shipped item, not one bit. On the shelf, yay.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
thats what im saying.. just seems scetchy
anywyas. almost finished rewiring my Megasquirt. I just need to get the injectors wired in. The approach im taking this time will have the MS harness wired into the stock harness (no adapter)
the delema is that megasquirt has 2 injector drivers while a 93 ecu has 6. So when i wire three injectors together for the MS.. that will piss off the stock ecu. It makes much more sense when i have a picture drawn up.. i might do that to help explain what im taking about.
Yeah the 92-93 ecu is sequential injection.
can probably figure out something with a couple of relays or some switches.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
ended up using a plug connector.
i wired the sequential side to the connector and then i wired the other connector with 3 wires to the MS. So i can disconnect the MS fuel injection wires when im not using MS and that way the sbec dosnt have its fuel injector wires tied together when its in use.
should work alright
If the pump is named after a person and does not carry a real brand, its fake. Who do you think just happens to build custom tiny fuel pumps that look like walbros.....China. I have read about a shop that swapped to the 300lph pump and made NO hp gains (not able to flow more fuel) and at super high pressure, lost fuel. That was compared to a real walbro. The flow charts for that pump always seem better but all I have seen are made up charts, not by someone I trust. Also, tons of pressure at zero psi...who cares!. Those 300lph pumps are supposed to be quieter, but don't pretend you are buying something made in america, or getting your money's worth.
I have seen a drop shipped fake from one of our vendors (I borrowed it and almost installed it).
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
ended up using a plug connector.<br><br>i wired the sequential side to the connector and then i wired the other connector with 3 wires to the MS. So i can disconnect the MS fuel injection wires when im not using MS and that way the sbec dosnt have its fuel injector wires tied together when its in use. <br><br>should work alright
edit: dont know why it posted funny?
anyways.. ill call TU again tomorrow cuz they still havnt gotten back to me. wtf. im about to cancel my order and buy from cindy
Chris has always been good for me, but Cindy has been as well for the most part. Honestly when i was building my coilovers she was hard to track down and never called me back etc however....I know shes a busy person running a business but i just felt like since she didn't have the parts i wanted or wasn't sure what i needed she didn't care. Rich Bryant on here helped me out a ton when i bought his camber plates (which are awesome btw). Anyway if i were you id get a disc from clutchnet and a PP from cindy. 6-puck clutchnet disc and Cindy's DD PP FTW from what Cory Hedin said when he had it in his R/t. Personally I might end up going with Chris' purple 4-puck...I've seen what DJ's car can do with it and I'm pretty much sold....ALTHOUGH Rob has an SRT-4 ACT 6-puck working in his car and I want to say Carroll has one as well....and they absolutely love it. Decisions....decisions.
I won't buy another puck clutch for DD.