timing cover seals?
timing cover seals?
I can't see a good pic of them but they seem to go under the inner timing cover stuff. The second from bottom is oil pump gasket on that link with the pic.
Hopefully you don't have to go that deep to find the leak or it's like a waterpump job, support the motor with a jack, strip that entire side of the motor...
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
If you plan on pulling the motor and going through it within a couple years, I'd rock the cheap seal. If it was a rear main I'd say otherwise, but front seal is no biggy.
should have listened to ryan and dead the rear main.. didnt show signs of leaking when i had the tranny off but hell, i dont want to pull the tranny just to change a seal!
got the front main from autozone for $6-7 out the door.. not bad.
i really dont think its the crank seal but i mine as well do it.. not like its hard to tear the front of the motor down anymore.... i might do it tomorrow
thanks god for walmart's super tech! $5 got me 2 quarts so i could make the drive to my buddies shop, autozone, and my work to get my tips. im losing that much oil...
my dip stick got ruined when i put the pan back on.. .. stupid me. i replaced it but sense having the turbo on i cant get oil to register (even before starting the motor. Im going to re route the oil return so its 100% gravity effect (it droops slightly) and then worry about oil. But adding 2quarts didnt show anything.. it stopped the lifter tick though. thats how i know i have lost to much oil, when the heads start ticking. add two quarts and tick goes away. ive added almost 4 quarts sense Friday and drove it half as much as i normally would.
If you're replacing a front main or rear man that's leaking it is a good idea to get a speedi sleeve for each seal. This will give the crank a new surface for the seal to ride on and ensure that it is leak free for many miles to come.
Uggg
Got a link for that
Hah I did that dipstick thing once, I had to loosen the pan to get it back out. I would worry about that first. Waiting for lifter tick is waiting too long. When I built that forged motor I had my oil feed pop off and seized the motor after 5 miles. That motor was never happy after it had to be power honed a bit (along with the burned/bent rods that were replaced).
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
holy damn
i HAVE to make a drive today. im suposed to have the week off at school save for one 15min thing at 9am this morning.. ill hit walmart and grab 5gal of oil for $10 and fill up and then fill up on my way home... sad that i have to budget oil just to drive.
i have the crank seal, i hope to do that tomorrow morning or even later today. dont know if thats the problem though.. would a crank seal leak oil that ends up all over the splash guard but not on the timing belt?
AutoZone or the like should be able to look up speedi sleeves if the person isn't an idiot.
http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDu...ediSleeve.aspx
---------- Post added at 09:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 AM ----------
When my front crank seal went there was oil everywhere! There was tons inside the timing belt splash guard. If you're doing the front crank seal you might as well do the cam seals at the same time to be sure.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
When my front main went it came completely out. I had oil spraying all over the place and was dripping off the K frame and passenger axle. I'd lose a quart of oil in like 10 minutes of driving. I'm betting you have a badly leaking front main or cam seal.
If you can't afford speedi sleeves, try to install the new seals such that the seal lip, of the new seal, rides a little further inside the motor then the old seal. This way the seal has a better chance of sealing because there won't already be a wear groove.
friend of mine calls me and tells me about his tranny leak. 1/2 quart a day he says
i told him i added 7 quarts in the past two days and barely have a reading on my dip stick and that my car takes a little over 5 quarts on a good day. HA
im going to get a breaker bar from a friend and tear the wide of the motor down.. anything specific when removing the crank pully?
i once ran the motor with the harmonic balancer removed (while ago) and it actually worked the crank sprockit out of place.. i quickly put it back in place and installed the balancer but it seemed effective.
edit: ill remember that ryan! your simptoms sound like mine
i added 5 quarts this morning to make a 20min drive to school, 20min back!!!!
i wasnt scared though, knowing i have a sohc 6g72.. they dont die unless you like lots of timing AND boost
so the crank seal dosnt apear to be leaking.. havnt actually gotten to it yet but the area around it is clean and the timing belt is also CLEAN.... the front cam seal looks to be good too. im talking about the one closest to the cam gear. i removed the cam gear and it looks fine and the area around it is clean.. the rear most cam seal might be leaking i guess but i checked it and it seemed fine too. guess i should replace both the rear cam seal and crank seal?
my k frame and axle are doused in oil..
its dirty.. but to me it dosnt look like 5quarts of oil exited in a hurry..
rear cam seal apears to be okay as well.....
it does look pushed out a little but i dont think that could cause it to leak so bad... i mean its still sealing it up isnt it?
im at such a loss
Have you considered adding a dye like this?
http://www.google.com/#q=motor+oil+d...w=1280&bih=667
i read about that.. i guess ill do that after replacing cam seals and crank seal and see
Hey, a die would be a nice thing! I had been wondering about doing that myself.
How about your headgasket or valve cover seals? I wouldn't touch a seal that is sealing well at this point. You obviously won't have a problem changing one in the future if you needed too. Some people never want to take things apart again.
Seems strange that your axle is soaked but the motor is clean in key spots, but its the motor losing oil..?
FIX the dipstick!
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
There's really nothing on the back side to leak, except the head and valve cover gaskets.
And the drain plug, and the pan gasket.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
the pans dont use gaskets. the 3si guys use sealant as did I.. the gasket i bought seriously didnt line up. Its not coming from the pan, its from way above.
I made a new thread on this. I narrowed it down to happening only with boost..
i drove around out of boost, low load, low rpms. no leak. drove around high rpms, high load, turbo wastegate stuck open along with open throttle body, no leak
at the turbo, and i leak. Re route the rear valve cover to a coke bottle, re route front valve cover between turbo and filter (provides vacume when in boost) and bam, no leak like before
NOW, i have a new leak (video in other thread) from the dizzy area.. this was deff not there before.. go figure. "fix" one thing and a new one arises.
so in the end im fairly certain i had blow by issues due to stock pcv being ghetto and not closing when in boost.. so for now its capped off. Should have a catch can by tomorrow to go between the valve covers and my vacuum source.