putting cyl 1 at tdc is the same as putting cyl 3 at tdc right?
putting cyl 1 at tdc is the same as putting cyl 3 at tdc right?
meant cyl 4^ ^ ^
heads are off. the front headgasket looked fine. the rear one came off WAY TO Easily.. i just pulled it off the head as if it had copper spray on it.
cyl 5 looks questionable (it looks fine but has signs of coolant being in it?)
rear headgasket had some damage on the edge but not that would allow coolant into the cyl? ill have to check the corner of it.. ill bet money its right next to cyl 5
have to wait till monday im pretty sure in order to get a nice valve spring compressor so i can take care of valve stem seals while the heads are off.
Did you clean the deck really good before you put those studs in? If not, they are going to be hard to clean around. I'd run a file over the decks too to check for high spots.
Also, I hope you're having a machine shop pressure check and plane the heads for flatness?
The deck really isnt rusty... It looks clean in normal light.
Yes it was cleaned and the studs are in by like 1 thread
Yeah I didn't think it was rusty, just wanted to be sure you cleaned any old gasket off
What did you do to clean the deck? I recommend mineral spirits till the cloth comes off clean. Follow that with denatured alcohol until the cloth comes off clean.
Is it just me or does the headgasket look "curved" in the first picture (the right most cylinder looks to be not in line with the other two.)
I will clean it up good
The headgasket is curved where cyl 5 would be. I cant tell if thats because it is damaged or if that happend during the head removal. Cyl 5 also has that smeear to it that the others dont. Maybe coolant wad being pushed into it excessively.
Or if you're a cheapskate, the oldschool version of magnafluxing is to whitewash the casting, wait for it to dry good, then "ping" it hard with a hard mallet, and any cracks will stain dark from the oil pumping back out of them from the vibrations.Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
soo headgaskets seem to be fine now
new problem, of course
not sure if i had this problem before removal of heads or not (due to coolant spraying all over)f
i have either oil or power steering fluid going EVERYwhere after a drive.
i have this oily liquid all over the top of the splash gaurd but it dosnt seem to be on the drive belt or timing belt. the timing belt is especialy clean. my first thought was dizzy cam seal but it dosnt seem to be leaking from there.. its more concentrated under that.
i want to say its power steering fluid because it seems to be thinner than the oil im running. it looks to be all ove my passenger axle but it also drips like crazy from the front of the oil pan... (radiator side) along with the side of the oil pan (crank pully side)
maybe axles are throwing it all over?
i know there is a belt i can run that dosnt use the power steering fluid... if i dont drip when idling but i do after a drive... assuming its PS related, i could test this by running a PS delete belt?
ill check for oil loss in a little bit but i dont seem to be loosing noticeable oil or PS fluid which sucks because it looks like i lose ALOT
Well my Spirit needs new Axle seals AND the dizzy is dumping out oil. I used cheap seals that I got for free from a transmission shop and that was a huge mistake. Good oem ones seem to survive countless removals.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Any idea what my problem could be?
Would removing the bracket that holds the ps dip stick cause it to leak? Its not leaking from the hole the dip sticj tube goes in
Still have to check my fluid levels
Sometimes after sitting for a while, PS pumps puke their guts out, then settle down and run okay. Could be a line slightly loose and spraying, they do that too. Next prime suspect is the oil sender.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
where is the oil sender?
not sure why the PS would puke all over and then just stop... ive gone for some pretty good drives and it does it every time
Heh, you've been looking at the front side of the block and haven't seen it? Maybe you broke it offNear the filter, whole deally might look like a bunch of grapes if you have a Y adapter and separate gauge and idiot light senders.
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:08 PM ----------
Oh, ps pump will sometimes only puke or spray under load, i.e. not when you've got the wheels straight ahead.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
ill have to jack it up and turn the wheels and see.
the oil/ fluid is on the timing belt side only.. not near the oil filter but it does make its way to the top of the oil pan and drip everywhere
my guess would be one of the cam seals. Probably the rear one, likely you pushed it in too far when you put the heads back together.
yeah ill have to try that
I was under my car this morning and it was soaked all around the pan thanks to one side of the motor. Not sure why it propagates so well.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Im going to look more into it today
This car is rediculous... Id like to figure out why it is trying to hit 9psi if its set at 8
Ibcant drive it hard in 2nd unless its hot our or something... Rips tires free everytime. 3rd does to around 70mph a little bit
Does it hit 8 and slowly climb higher? If so, you have boost creep. Could mean your wastegate isn't big enough, or it's not opening as much as it needs.
If it Hits 9, 10, etc, then comes back down to 8 - that's a boost Spike. It's the delay in the wastegate seeing the pressure change. My WRX does this at part throttle. Part throttle is set to 7psi, and it'll hit 9/10 and come back down.
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