Brake problems, need to vent!

[RattFink]

My DD is 1999 Dodge Stratus. 2.4 auto. Front disk, rear drum, no ABS. A couple years ago the rear brakes went out, metal on metal, no shoe left. I'm pretty sure it was the first time the car ever had rear brakes put on it at 165,000 miles. Knowing this, I bought wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, and drums. The adjusters are a dealer only item, so I skipped on those. The adjusters are a bar type, and mine were honestly pretty worn out. I should have replaced them then, but the dealer wanted $50 a piece. Ever since doing the brakes that time, they have never been right. The RR would stick sometimes and make some strange clunky noises, but still stopped good. Well the clunky noise started getting worse, so I started collecting parts. New shoes, hardware, and park brake cables from Rock Auto. Got some brand new adjusters from a dealer at cost. I did the brakes this past weekend. Everything went pretty good until trying to put the drums on, they just wouldn't fit. I tripple checked everything, it seemed that the wheels cylinders were'nt being pushed in far enough. I just went out and bought 2 more wheel cylinders and slapped them in too. Everything went together perfect after that. Took it on a drive, it was all good. Well... I drove it to work this morning and when I got there, the RR was smoking a little bit. I thought maybe it's just the brakes breaking in, I'll worry about it later. Drove home today and the RR starts POURING out smoke lol. It was pretty epic. Get home, lift the rear up, both rear wheels wont spin, but only the RR is smoking. I crack the bleeders on both sides and the wheels will spin freely until I hit the brakes again at which point they lock up. What are the chances that BOTH my rear brake hoses are messed up? I know it is an old vehicle and anything can happen. The brake system is split diagnolly on this car. It seems to me that it pretty much has to be the rear hoses which I ordered today from Rock Auto. Long vent, sorry, just frustatrated and sick of doing rear brakes!!!

[PunKid]

I beleive it.

When I bought my GLH-T the P.O. never put it on the road because he could not figure out the sticking calipers. I tore it apart thinking it was calipers also, but it ended up being both front hoses. you could stop but they would not retract and the car was basically stuck.

I had only read about a collasped hose with no visual external indicators in books. So to have it happen on both front hoses at the same time was very strange.

[RattFink]

I've read about it alot, but also have never seen it happen. Talking to some people at work, two people said they had it happen, both on Dodge trucks lol.

[PunKid]

Yup I have seen them crushed, dry rot, and swell. But this car was the first time It had no visual problems.

[RattFink]

Well, that did the trick! Both back lines must have been shot internally. Chalk one more thing from the books that i've now seen in person. Rock Auto pulled through, brake hoses came today, just threw them on and went for a drive. I'm lucky they went on so easy considering this car has spent most of it's life in Michigan...

[Big_P]

I always replace the flex hoses on Chrysler products when I replace calipers or wheel cylinders. I don't know why but 50% of the time they go bad once you put calipers/wheel cyls on there.

Could be worse yanno!

[looneytuner]

I always replace the flex hoses on Chrysler products when I replace calipers or wheel cylinders. I don't know why but 50% of the time they go bad once you put calipers/wheel cyls on there.

Could be worse yanno!

Say like an Olds!

[RoadWarrior222]

I don't know why but 50% of the time they go bad once you put calipers/wheel cyls on there.

Here's a theory on that... we all know brake fluid swells normal rubbers, and brake hose has special resistance to brake fluid... however, as the hose ages it loses resistance... but also the old brake fluid has aged too, and has reached chemical equilibrium, i.e. whatever reacts with the rubber is all reacted or aged out... THEN when you put NEW fluid in there when bleeding after changing parts, it's fully reactive fluid and swells up the aged/damaged hoses...

If that's somewhat right, then also we should expect to see people with "functioning" brake systems with acceptable wear on, only have the fluid changed and then get problems a week later.... but very few people do that, and brakes only get attention when they need parts replacing.

[METZ]

Ive had to replace quite a few hoses because of this problem. I believe Road Warrior's theory is right. Also, if the clamp that holds the hose still gets rusty on the inside it further pushes the hose shut which aggravates the problem even more. I did notice that if you spread the clamp, it will start to work again. I don't recommend this but if your caught out on the road with stuck brakes it might get you going until you can buy a new hose. Also a quick way to check if it's the hose or not, press on the brakes good & hard, if the car will not move crack open the bleeder screw. If fluid squirts out and the car moves freely it is most likely a bad hose.
I just replaced both hoses and calipers on a 87 Charger that sat for a very long time. Both hoses were closed shut and the plastic pistons in the calipers were also swelled up or warped and would no longer fit the caliper even though the bore was clean. I didn't think that was even possible.

[sabrina]

I agree that old brake fluid has aged too, and has reached chemical equilibrium.

[RattFink]

Some very interesting theories here. My brake fluid was old and nasty. Also, that metal clamp that holds the hose was pretty rusty. In the end I guess I was long overdue for some new hoses. They were only 7 bucks a piece on rockauto.