Is this boost creep?

[tehdrizzle]

Got the Daytona out today and did some final tuning on it prior to my dyno appointment tomorrow and I've noticed before but never thought to ask about this. I'm running a stock rebuilt garrett t-II with the mods below and I have a Hallman Pro manual boost controller set to the lowest possible boost setting. In 3rd gear if I start the pull any sooner than 3,000rpm you can hear the turbo surge and it won't actually start to spool until around 3,000rpm. If I lay into it at 3,000rpm the boost goes right up to 5-7psi and will slowly go all the way up to around 13psi until redline. Any way that I can stop that from happening as it's quite annoying and I would think that it's not great either.

Rebuilt 2.2 T-II engine
Rotating assembly was balanced and blueprinted
JE +.020 forged pistons
ARP main studs
ARP rod and head bolts
Comp Cams S-60 cam
Crane Cams valve springs
Mopar High RPM lash adjuster and slider rocker arms
Fel-pro gaskets
Mopar oil pump and timing belt
Michigan Turbo stock rebuilt Garrett T-II turbo @12psi
Mildly ported cylinder head that was port matched to the intake manifold
2 piece intake manifold that was port matched at the head and between the upper and lower plenum.
FM ported and Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold
TU 3" swing valve Jet-Hot coated
TU 3" stainless down pipe
3" mandrel bent turbo-back exhaust (dumps in front of driver's side wheel)
FWDP stainless braided oil and coolant lines
Magnecor Plug Wires
Mopar +20 injectors
Accufab afpr
FWD Performance Stage 5
MSD Blaster 2 coil
JAZ 1 pint catch can
2.5" intercooler pipes
Michigan turbo custom built FMIC (equal to 3 stockers)
HKS SSQV blow off valve
FWDP 4-puck ceramic clutch
Walbro 255 fuel pump

[Orangetona]

Hmm...are you sure that controller is any good? With those mods it should be right there. It sounds like the controller is junk

[tehdrizzle]

Hmm...are you sure that controller is any good? With those mods it should be right there. It sounds like the controller is junk

I was honestly wondering the same thing since I turned it up 2 turns and the boost didn't increase at all but stayed the same and would go up to 5-7psi and then slowly creep up to around 12-13 at redline. Looks like I'm picking a new one up, should I just stick with the good old g-valve?

[Orangetona]

Hell, if you can find a simple bleed valve that will work better than what you have

I picked up an 'ice maker 'T' valve' a LONG time ago from home depot for like 5 bucks. It works perfect, and the hole is large enough to make the turbo hit fairly hard.

It has two compression nuts on either side, I just took the ferrules out and cranked it down on some hose and worked fine Still have it!

Its exactly this, however its all brass, I just took the 3rd compression nut off and thats the bleed hole. Turn it all the way in, you get 5psi.

[tehdrizzle]

Well hell, looks like I'm going to Home Depot, could I get you to post a pic by chance?

[Orangetona]

Actually, I can get a pic of the actual thing hold up

[tehdrizzle]

Actually, I can get a pic of the actual thing hold up

I appreciate it!

[Orangetona]

Ok this is it, you can call me the master of the bleed valve I guess. Ive seriously used this thing forever. I want a good electronic controller but its not a high priority yet.

To edit this, A LONG time ago I was riding on the edge of boost cut out 14 PSI and this never spiked into cutout. 2.5L with a TI converted garrett. Mostly stock though.

[tehdrizzle]

Ok this is it, you can call me the master of the bleed valve I guess. Ive seriously used this thing forever. I want a good electronic controller but its not a high priority yet.

I appreciate it. I'm off to Home Depot!

[Orangetona]

Cool try lowes if they dont have it!

[tehdrizzle]

Put the valve in and it's even worse now, also tried a Turbonetics and TurboXS from Lane Automotive, both did the same thing, it would rise until redline.

---------- Post added at 12:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ----------

I'm going to hook the WGA up to the intake manifold pressure source directly to see if that makes any difference.

[moparman76_69]

Is your wastegate actuator holding?

[tehdrizzle]

I just did a run with the wga hooked up directly to the intake manifold and did the same thing. Spiked to 5psi fine and slowly went up to 11-12psi at redline. Sounds like a bad wga to me but I'm not sure.

[GLHNSLHT2]

It's not a bad WGA, it's your hole is to small to bleed all the exhaust around the turbine. Your minimum boost is what it is at redline with a straight line to the WGA. Get a REAL grainger valve from one of the vendors and set your boost there. You should have full boost by 2500rpms with that setup and a grainger.

[turbovanman²]

I just did a run with the wga hooked up directly to the intake manifold and did the same thing. Spiked to 5psi fine and slowly went up to 11-12psi at redline. Sounds like a bad wga to me but I'm not sure.

Yeah, your can is bad.

[vntned]

Sounds like WGA is junk.


Screw a grainger! Turbosmart MBC FTMFW!!!!!!!

[tehdrizzle]

It's not a bad WGA, it's your hole is to small to bleed all the exhaust around the turbine. Your minimum boost is what it is at redline with a straight line to the WGA. Get a REAL grainger valve from one of the vendors and set your boost there. You should have full boost by 2500rpms with that setup and a grainger.

I've also got a grainger that I tried, sorry I didn't list it. Did the same thing as above and kept creeping all the way to redline. Looks like I'm on the hunt for a new wga.

[Orangetona]

Wow that sucks!

So they do still have that same EXACT valve? Thats pretty cool. I bought that thing in 2003 lol.

[tehdrizzle]

Wow that sucks!

So they do still have that same EXACT valve? Thats pretty cool. I bought that thing in 2003 lol.

Yeah I was really surprised too! It was the exact same thing.

[Orangetona]

$5?

.