Spec Stage 1 clutch

[Force Fed Mopar]

Anybody running one? Looking to get a new clutch soon, I'm not sure how well my T3 plate/6-puck disc is actually holding. FWD-P is selling them for 319, looked the clutch up on Spec's site and it says it's good to 270 lbs/ft of torque, which should be more than enough for my setup for a long while.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Go with the stage 3. Pedal is lighter than a stock T1 suckthrough car but. I loved my stage 3. Didn't chatter, drove like a stock clutch for the most part.

[shackwrrr]

stage 1 spec is basically a stock clutch with a higher clamp load. If you dont think your 6 puck is holding then I dont think that the spec will hold very well.

[MiniMopar]

I'm running the Stage 3+. It's....interesting.

[Force Fed Mopar]

The thing is, I don't want another puck clutch. Too annoying for a daily. And I could be wrong about my 6-puck not holding. Still working on my tune, and still finding odd bugs w/ T-LM, so it may just be the way it's running. Anybody have any idea how much power a T3 plate and 6-puck disc should hold up to?

[Juggy]

at least 300/350 id assume

[Force Fed Mopar]

Hmm, yeah I'm not anywhere near that yet I'm sure.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I'm running the Stage 3+. It's....interesting.

Can you elaborate on the "interesting" comment? i'm getting a Stage 5 which looks similar to the 3+

[MiniMopar]

It's a full-faced ceramic-type disc and feels pretty much like any ceramic disc I've experienced. Grabby. The standard PP has stock feel. I'm guessing it might be stock, but FWD-P's website indicates otherwise.

I had a Kevlar clutch before it, which was obnoxiously chattery at low RPM. It made backing up impossible to do smoothly unless you really gunned it. Driving in heavy stop-and-go traffic was annoying. But otherwise the Kevlar was pretty friendly on the street. Easy to modulate with a bit of extra throttle...not too much different than an organic. Engagement was smooth and controllable as long as you could avoid that low RPM chatter. Mine lasted about 30k.

The ceramic is much like a puck disc. Maybe a bit smoother, but still very grabby. If you move the pedal fast, you get a bang. It's as streetable as any ceramic clutch IMO. It all depends what you are willing to put up with. It doesn't chatter like the Kevlar did, but being so grabby it's kind of an unfair comparison. You can't slip a ceramic clutch at low RPM at all, really. I mean, you *can*, but you have about 1/4" of pedal throw to work with. When I do manage to get it just right, it doesn't chatter. But sometimes, if I get the motor bouncing just right, it will vibrate like crazy and won't stop. But that doesn't happen often.

I've got to be getting close to 1k on it now and some time back started making this weird noise. Only happens during down shift and sometimes while backing up. It's a weird hoot/squeak noise. I'm guessing it's some oscillation of the PP spring-strap things (what connects the plate to the outer shell). It doesn't seem to cause any harm. Just sounds funny.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Sounds like my stage 3 6 puck I was running. I was going to go with a stage 4 3 puck as I think the sprung hub was causing some "rubber banding" while idling a long in parking lots that drove me nuts. But they didn't think that a 4 would hold the torque that I might possibly make and they can't rebuild a 3 into a 4 but can rebuild to a 5 for some reason. So a stage 5 with a super clamp plate is what I'm getting.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I've got to be getting close to 1k on it now and some time back started making this weird noise. Only happens during down shift and sometimes while backing up. It's a weird hoot/squeak noise. I'm guessing it's some oscillation of the PP spring-strap things (what connects the plate to the outer shell). It doesn't seem to cause any harm. Just sounds funny.

My 6-puck makes a noise like that when taking off, I figured it was just the sound of the clutch pads scrubbing the flywheel/PP, as it only makes it when it's being slipped in 1st gear on take off.

The 6-puck really isn't too bad once you're used to it, and I think I have a soft front motor mount I need to replace that is probably causing some of the motor hop I get sometimes. But it is still somewhat annoying around town, it just seems hard to be smooth with. I've been driving on it for a year now, and just don't care for it. I'd try an 8-puck if I could get one.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I also now remember my 6 puck making that noise once in a while. Either I stopped noticing it or it went away after so long. MiniMopar, are you matching revs on the d'shift?

[Force Fed Mopar]

Mine does it mostly just when it is cold, ie first few take-offs in the morning, like going to work, then doesn't do it again the rest of the day unless it cools off completely.

Edit: I lied it will do it hot, but only on take-off in first. Never makes a peep otherwise.

[Shadow]

It's a full-faced ceramic-type disc and feels pretty much like any ceramic disc I've experienced. Grabby. The standard PP has stock feel. I'm guessing it might be stock, but FWD-P's website indicates otherwise.

I had a Kevlar clutch before it, which was obnoxiously chattery at low RPM. It made backing up impossible to do smoothly unless you really gunned it. Driving in heavy stop-and-go traffic was annoying. But otherwise the Kevlar was pretty friendly on the street. Easy to modulate with a bit of extra throttle...not too much different than an organic. Engagement was smooth and controllable as long as you could avoid that low RPM chatter. Mine lasted about 30k.

The ceramic is much like a puck disc. Maybe a bit smoother, but still very grabby. If you move the pedal fast, you get a bang. It's as streetable as any ceramic clutch IMO. It all depends what you are willing to put up with. It doesn't chatter like the Kevlar did, but being so grabby it's kind of an unfair comparison. You can't slip a ceramic clutch at low RPM at all, really. I mean, you *can*, but you have about 1/4" of pedal throw to work with. When I do manage to get it just right, it doesn't chatter. But sometimes, if I get the motor bouncing just right, it will vibrate like crazy and won't stop. But that doesn't happen often.

I've got to be getting close to 1k on it now and some time back started making this weird noise. Only happens during down shift and sometimes while backing up. It's a weird hoot/squeak noise. I'm guessing it's some oscillation of the PP spring-strap things (what connects the plate to the outer shell). It doesn't seem to cause any harm. Just sounds funny.

I was running the stage 4+ which is basically your disc but solid hub. Was Way smoother than any puc clutch I've ever driven. Grabbier than organic, but very smooth, specially for a 650WTQ set-up! If the disc wasn't so heavy I'd still be running it now!

BTW, I've Always slipped my puc clutches as well as my stage 4+ carbon/metalic disc. Never had a problem and they've lasted longer than any other discs I've seen from other ppls cars.

[MiniMopar]

I also now remember my 6 puck making that noise once in a while. Either I stopped noticing it or it went away after so long. MiniMopar, are you matching revs on the d'shift?

It's only when I don't match them. Basically when I slip it with reverse torque. For forward take-offs its pretty quiet. My old 6-puck squeaked too, but only after I ground them down to the rivets.

Mine does it mostly just when it is cold, ie first few take-offs in the morning, like going to work, then doesn't do it again the rest of the day unless it cools off completely.

Temperature doesn't seem to matter. I don't really care that much...just kind of odd as it didn't do it at first. No sign of the clutch letting go...it's handled everything I've done to it so far. No track time yet, though. On a really hard launch with lots of boost it does engage surprisingly smooth.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Yeah pucks like higher revs on launch.