Anybody using Clutchnet disks sprung or solid hub on the street?

[4 l-bodies]

Still looking for a DD (streetable) large spline disk that will not tear up my flywheel/ pressure plate. I was doing a little browsing on Clutchnets website. I've used a solid hub ceramic 4 puck disk of theirs before, but this is for a more streetable combination. I really think they make decent disks. Want something that could hold up to at least 350 ft/lbs torque, with maybe going out to the strip and bolting on the slicks one or twice a year. I have a nice RPS pressure plate that I could use with this, but not opposed to buying a PP (kit) too.
I noticed Clutchnet offers a solid hub organic, Kevlar, and carbon fibre disk. They also offer the same in sprung hubs too. They also have assorted 3,4,6 puck disks too, but they might be a bit more grabby than what I'm looking for. Anyone use any of these disks on the street? Does anyone know if Centerforce sells disks alone? Maybe the Dual friction disk could be an option, as long as I use a real PP with it. It looks like Mcleod also makes a similar dual friction disk.
Todd

[shackwrrr]

350ftlbs is no where near where you will need a solid hub. Many have street driven on and were fine but at your power level its like putting dss axles on a stock car. The turbos unleashed blue plate 4 puck clutch is full capable of handling the power you are making and is very streetable. Plus at 325 bucks its not a bad price.

[BadAssPerformance]

Still looking for a DD (streetable) large spline disk that will not tear up my flywheel/ pressure plate. I was doing a little browsing on Clutchnets website. I've used a solid hub ceramic 4 puck disk of theirs before, but this is for a more streetable combination. I really think they make decent disks. Want something that could hold up to at least 350 ft/lbs torque, with maybe going out to the strip and bolting on the slicks one or twice a year. I have a nice RPS pressure plate that I could use with this, but not opposed to buying a PP (kit) too.
I noticed Clutchnet offers a solid hub organic, Kevlar, and carbon fibre disk. They also offer the same in sprung hubs too. They also have assorted 3,4,6 puck disks too, but they might be a bit more grabby than what I'm looking for. Anyone use any of these disks on the street? Does anyone know if Centerforce sells disks alone? Maybe the Dual friction disk could be an option, as long as I use a real PP with it. It looks like Mcleod also makes a similar dual friction disk.
Todd

Any puck clutch (with any number of pucks) will tear up the plate and flywheel, with either the solid or sprung hub, its a material thing, they all do that, any brand.

For Clutchnet - I have used both sprung and solid hub 4-pucks from them w/o issues. Their sprung hubs actually wrap around the springs more so if they break they still are retained so you cna limp it home. I never broek one, but this is what Igor mentioned to me at SEMA several years ago. Last time I went to get a clutch from them they they had issues getting good plates to modify.

For RPS - Rob Smith (owner/president?) personally has 2 patents on pressure plate design which other clutch compnaies ... emulate... and makes a VERY good product. I spoke with him many years ago and asked about solid disk vs. puck options for my car. He told me a story about a 1200hp turbo Viper they had on a dyno with his clutch. They said it made a few pulls with a puck clutch and it was starting to slip. They then swapped in a solid organic disk and ran all day with it... moral: more area and better heat disipative material = better longevity

Streetable? My Shadow has a 4-puck solid hub and is very streetable. I havn't had it apart in a while but am guessing the flywheel and plate show more wear than the pucks, LOL

[OmniLuvr]

carbon fiber is a very good option, very very streetable, smooth engagement, but grabby when you need it to be (when you burn it, it grabs better?), but the problem is longevity

kevlar is also very nice, as long as you dont burn it, and break in is VERY VERY VERY important.

my friend is using the 4 puck clutchnet sprung hub, and as stated above, the cages for the springs are very nice, plus it has a lot of rivets holding it together, but it is a little grabby, which is to be expected. his car is a little hard to drive because the throttle is very stiff and its hard for me to drive because i like to blip the throttle on engagement. id go with a 6 puck sprung hub if its going to spend most of its time on the street, but it may not be able to hold up to the punishment of slicks? (depending on how good you "really" hook up)...

[4 l-bodies]

... The turbos unleashed blue plate 4 puck clutch is full capable of handling the power you are making and is very streetable. Plus at 325 bucks its not a bad price.

I ordered a large spline 232mm purple plate with 6 puck from TU, as well as a SPEC (3+) 232mm. Both big dollar clutches (at least in TM money). Those two appearantly are not options for me at this point. I'll be the first in line to repurchase, should they be able to supply me with what I want. That is all I'm going to comment on about those clutches.
SPEC 3+ is supposed to be very easy on flywheel and PP wear. It is not a puck but rather a carbon/metallic full disk (some refer to that as feramic). My Centerforce dual friction wasn't bad on PP and flywheel wear, but they (several) would slip eventually because of a very average PP. On the flip side, I have a older Rev-Lok (the good ones) and wear is bad. Couple that with on-off switch manners, is leading me to look for something more refined for the street.
I'm looking for a clutch that won't chatter and will hold in excess of 350 ft/lbs torque, with some room to spare when the slicks get bolted on. Like Shadow has said before, "something that my wife could drive".
Todd

[GLHNSLHT2]

Todd I just pulled out my Spec stage 3 I've been running on my fidanza. There is almost zero wear and I was doing 2nd gear burnouts at the track on it. But other than that I'm probably very easy on clutches as I do't slip them when taking off much. And I always heel and toe d'shift when driving. But people have told me that I'd have to change it at 10k miles for sure. HAH! I could go 100k on it easy. It didn't chatter and I consider it very streetable. My g/f was able to drive it. I would think the Stage 3 or Stage 3+ would suit you very well. They have a high clamp pressure plate option if you want more torque capacity with a certain disc. They currently are upgrading my Stage 3 to a Stage 5 with a high clamp plate.

---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 PM ----------

ok why was the 3+ not an option?