Turbos Unleashed oil pan?

[vntned]

Anybody using one of Chris' TU Performance oil pans?

Im debating on getting one to put on when I do my OP gasket and 6puk StageIV!

[OmniLuvr]

make sure its the newer design, with the slot/hole cut out for the turbo oil drain back, i have the older one, dont really like the quality of the swinging trap doors but it does the job, i used the 2.5 deep sump if it matters...

[Force Fed Mopar]

I think FWD sells the Ishihara-Johnson baffle kit, which is about as good as it gets. Looking at the TU pan, it's just a plate welded in just under the crank path. The I-J baffle kit is much more intricate and I think has a crank scraper, or at least has one as an option. They are the same price as TU's Hi-Capacity pan. TU's pan probably works just as well for drag racing and everyday driving, for road racing or hitting the mountains I'd rather have the I-J setup.

[Chris W]

make sure its the newer design, with the slot/hole cut out for the turbo oil drain back, i have the older one, dont really like the quality of the swinging trap doors but it does the job, i used the 2.5 deep sump if it matters...

When our modified pans were first introduced we offered a turbo oil drainback guard. Because the connecting rod rotates within a fraction of an inch positioning of the guard was extremely critical. Contact with the rod was possible if attached slightly off or even jarred during shipping/handling. Since there were too many issues we decided to discontinue the guards in '06 when when we transitioned to our new fabricator. Was this what you were referring to?

Our fabricator has had a few welders work for him over the years and on a couple of occasions things weren't 100% perfect. There were two issues last year including the dipstick hole location. The fabricator accidentily installed the windage tray upside down so the hole was on the wrong side. This is very easy to do since the tray can be installed in either position. Not to mention, they are F*rd guys so not very familiar with our engines. Because of these problems, last month we provided them with a common and non-common block engine to re-verify fitment on all applications. They created a CAD file and the water jetter is now marking the windage trays and trap doors so they cannot be installed incorrectly. They also started slotting our windage tray holes for fine tuning.

The bottom line here is we have already taken steps to correct issues that have been brought to our attention. We have also addressed the problems that a handfull of customers had by providing technical assistance or by replacing the product with a corrected version. Attached is a photo of one of our newly designed windage trays that we install in our modified oil pan.

If you have any additional questions please contact me directly.

Thanks!

Chris-TU

[Austrian Dodge]

i don't know why someone would need trap doors doing a 1/4 mile run. were's the fast corner? :P

seriously, nothing wrong with TUs baffled oil pan doing autoX or circle track racing.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Do you have some pics of the trap-doors, Chris? I assume that's what the row of spot welds on each side is?

---------- Post added at 04:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------

i don't know why someone would need trap doors doing a 1/4 mile run. were's the fast corner? :P

seriously, nothing wrong with TUs baffled oil pan doing autoX or circle track racing.

I could stop my GLHS hard enough in the mountains to slosh all the oil to the front of the pan and the low oil warning light would come on. Probably not a problem on a circle track, possible in auto-x or road racing. Drag racing is no problem at all, you can run a wide open pan w/ no issues dragging

[jckrieger]

Has anyone run the TU baffled pan with good success? I need to upgrade my pan in the GLHS as the oiling system can't keep up with the race springs and slicks in the corners. I need to know somebody has run race tires with these and not collapsed their lifters. If so, I'll be ordering a pan ASAP as I'd like to get my car together for SDAC.

[OmniLuvr]

^so are you talking about airiating the oil to the point that its causing the lifters to deflate, or are you losing oil pressure from taking the turns with enough g-force to cause the oil to slosh up the sides and away from the pick-up tube?

what pan are you using now? and what block do you have?

what other mods do you have to the engine? and what kind of rpm range are you running?

i could make the oil slosh up the sides with stock suspension and street tires with the stock pan.

[92spiritrt]

i have one in my car. i had ordered the i/j baffle from fwd but it was back ordered for a while so i ended up with the tu piece. chris seems to be weeding out the problems with them. mine was one of the backwards ones, then when i recieved the correct one i had to open up the pickup hole on it cause it was about a 1/2" over towards the passenger side too far. if i don't have an extra quart of oil more than the normal capacity in the pan the oil pressure drops significantly around corners. the oil pressure drop happens more on left hand turns than right. i checked all of the clearances and made sure nothing was hanging up. i can't find any binding issues.

[Juggy]

i have one in my car. i had ordered the i/j baffle from fwd but it was back ordered for a while so i ended up with the tu piece. chris seems to be weeding out the problems with them. mine was one of the backwards ones, then when i recieved the correct one i had to open up the pickup hole on it cause it was about a 1/2" over towards the passenger side too far. if i don't have an extra quart of oil more than the normal capacity in the pan the oil pressure drops significantly around corners. the oil pressure drop happens more on left hand turns than right. i checked all of the clearances and made sure nothing was hanging up. i can't find any binding issues.

you should be able to run less oil with a baffled pan??? not forced to run an extra quart??

[jckrieger]

When I auto-x I run R compound tires with the stock engine. I have the stock konis with urethane bushings and MP road racing springs. I'm pretty sure I'm losing oil pressure for a split second on turns, but not enough to trash the bottom end. Since the engine is mostly stock (except for exhaust), it's a 2.2L with the stock non-common block oil pan. The car has 30K miles so not much has been touched. I'm currently "updating" the car as the DSP class allows.

^so are you talking about airiating the oil to the point that its causing the lifters to deflate, or are you losing oil pressure from taking the turns with enough g-force to cause the oil to slosh up the sides and away from the pick-up tube?

what pan are you using now? and what block do you have?

what other mods do you have to the engine? and what kind of rpm range are you running?

i could make the oil slosh up the sides with stock suspension and street tires with the stock pan.

---------- Post added at 04:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------

i have one in my car. i had ordered the i/j baffle from fwd but it was back ordered for a while so i ended up with the tu piece. chris seems to be weeding out the problems with them. mine was one of the backwards ones, then when i recieved the correct one i had to open up the pickup hole on it cause it was about a 1/2" over towards the passenger side too far. if i don't have an extra quart of oil more than the normal capacity in the pan the oil pressure drops significantly around corners. the oil pressure drop happens more on left hand turns than right. i checked all of the clearances and made sure nothing was hanging up. i can't find any binding issues.

This is the kind of feedback I was looking for. I'm sure the TU pan is better than stock, and it's probably fine for auto-x, but I'd be a little concerned about road course events. I don't really plan on taking the omni to road events, as I have a car much better suited for that type of event. I will likely end up ordering one soon. I just pulled the head off the car and will be pulling the trans soon for an A520/OBX swap. It'll also get some other goodies while I'm in there. Unforunately, the 30K mile shortblock still has an excellent cross hatch, so I can't justify putting in T2 pistons and HD rods. I'm sure I'll be windowing whichever new pan I get knowing my luck with LW rods.

[Chris W]

You might consider our high capacity pan then. It is mainly for auto cross applications. Our design provides room for additional oil without sacrificing ground clearance.

Chris-TU

[jckrieger]

You might consider our high capacity pan then. It is mainly for auto cross applications. Our design provides room for additional oil without sacrificing ground clearance.

Chris-TU

I saw the high capacity pan on your site. That seems to be one way around the problem. The Viper guys all ditch the puny 8 quart pan and upgrade to the 11 quart. Now that's pan capacity!

[4cefedomni]

I have the deep sump pan from chris. I ended up getting one of the ones with the Dipstick hole on the wrong side but it took about 5 minutes to locate and drill a hole on the right side.
It holds about 6.5 quarts. I don't have the car on the road yet so I can't comment on how it works in the corners but i am happy with my decision to buy it.

[OmniLuvr]

if i don't have an extra quart of oil more than the normal capacity in the pan the oil pressure drops significantly around corners. the oil pressure drop happens more on left hand turns than right.

well if you got the cb pan, and its the deep sump "intended" for balance shafts, and you dont have balance shafts, then the oil level will be lower than the recomended level, and you would have to run about six quarts to get you back to the oil level you need. are you running the correct pick up tube for that pan?

also, if you are talking about driving it hard on the street for left and right turns, then left turns wil usaully be longer sweeping turns that can be held for a longer time with more g-forces because of the side of the road we drive on.

it's a 2.2L with the stock non-common block oil pan

thats what i was worried about, they hold the least amount of oil, and im not sure (havent checked) if theres a deep/high capicity oil pan for your application, but you should still be able to get a baffled pan.

i am EXTREMELY hard on my "road" vehicles, and the deep sump cb baffled pan works awsome for me, but i havent spent any real time on a "road course", just auto-x and my own "road" courses

[jckrieger]

i am EXTREMELY hard on my "road" vehicles, and the deep sump cb baffled pan works awsome for me, but i havent spent any real time on a "road course", just auto-x and my own "road" courses

If you can auto-x without lifters ticking after some hard passes, then your pan must be working. I also found out that my breather baffles need to be sealed, as my airbox was full of oil, as were all the turbo lines. The turbo is in perfect shape, and the bottom end is peachy. The joys of having an unmolested car...

[Force Fed Mopar]

I have oil in the pipes issues too, but I think it's because I am running a TBI cover, which doesn't have a baffle for the PCV, just has that tin splash plate.