What exactly is "sealer 3419115"?? - exhaust manifold install

[ohlarikd]

I have a new gasket for the head-to-exhaust manifold (and intake). I checked the FSM of course, and it says to use Sealer Number 3419115 on manifold side. What exactly is this in normal terms, some high-temp RTV?

Thanks!

Derek

[ohlarikd]

I am using this, the only thing they had at the store:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ve_Sealant.htm

Seems like it should do the trick. I hope.

[4 l-bodies]

Derek,
On turbo motors you should have the graphite coated crush style gasket. If you don't, and just have a steel gasket, you have the wrong one. The 4 bottom studs for the exhaust manifold penetrate the water jacket so you will need to put some sealer on these threads. Four of the intake bolts (LH side) penetrate the head bolt cavity as well. Liquid teflon, RTV, silicone, Mopar gasket maker, all work. I use RTV. On the studs, use two jamb nuts and tighten to spec. I do not use any sealer of any type on the gasket itself.
Todd

[Orangetona]

Derek,
On turbo motors you should have the graphite coated crush style gasket. If you don't, and just have a steel gasket, you have the wrong one. The 4 bottom studs for the exhaust manifold penetrate the water jacket so you will need to put some sealer on these threads. Four of the intake bolts (LH side) penetrate the head bolt cavity as well. Liquid teflon, RTV, silicone, Mopar gasket maker, all work. I use RTV. On the studs, use two jamb nuts and tighten to spec. I do not use any sealer of any type on the gasket itself.
Todd

Couldnt have said it any better.

[ohlarikd]

Four of the intake bolts (LH side) penetrate the head bolt cavity as well. Liquid teflon, RTV, silicone, Mopar gasket maker, all work. I use RTV. On the studs, use two jamb nuts and tighten to spec. I do not use any sealer of any type on the gasket itself.
Todd

Hmm, in regards to the intake bolts, I did not know that. I did not put anything on those since the manual did not mention it. I know I had to put the intake on first, then the exhaust, since two intake bolts got covered by the turbo flange exhaust manifold.

So I am hoping those two bolts under the turbo flange are NOT the ones I need to put RTV on...

Let me know. I really don't feel like taking it all apart again... why wouldn't the service manual mention this?

Derek

[ohlarikd]

And if I have to take this all apart, is that gasket done? Do I need to get a new one? Can I just spray sealer on it to bring it back to life?

Derek

[cordes]

And if I have to take this all apart, is that gasket done? Do I need to get a new one? Can I just spray sealer on it to bring it back to life?

Derek

I would get a new one. I've tried to reuse a fairly fresh one once and it ended up leaking prematurely (IMO).

[ohlarikd]

I would get a new one. I've tried to reuse a fairly fresh one once and it ended up leaking prematurely (IMO).

The last gasket I got was mail order (TU), and I don't want to wait that long... is this gasket something I can get from the dealer? I don't have the part number.

This is amazingly frustrating.

Derek

---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

Derek,
On turbo motors you should have the graphite coated crush style gasket.

I have this silvery style gasket, the one that leaves silver residue when you remove it - I assume this is graphite.

So on this type of gasket, I can skip the sealant and use it as-is? Want to be sure before I waste yet more time and money.

Derek

[black86glhs]

Yes, you can skip the sealant. I have reused them if they haven't been run or run for long. You can also get them from the dealer. Our vendors get them from dodge, so you can too. They will most likely have to order it, but it should only be overnight.

[ohlarikd]

Yes, you can skip the sealant. I have reused them if they haven't been run or run for long. You can also get them from the dealer. Our vendors get them from dodge, so you can too. They will most likely have to order it, but it should only be overnight.

Ok - good, so that sealer was a waste of money. I am bitter. Dealer usually gets parts next day from the local warehouse. Anyone have the part number? My dealer knows nothing about these cars, they are too young...

Derek

[Orangetona]

Ok - good, so that sealer was a waste of money. I am bitter. Dealer usually gets parts next day from the local warehouse. Anyone have the part number? My dealer knows nothing about these cars, they are too young...

Derek

Hmm....I resent that lol.

I get that alot before older people even try me. Then they are usually suprised when I know more about it than they do.

[135sohc]

Felpro MS90947. Autozone has it for $7

[4 l-bodies]

Derek,
Here is my .02 cents on your questions. I usually put anti-seize on the intake bolts (and top exhaust studs). I've seen too many that have had to be heli-coiled due to stripped threads. I think I have heard of a couple people that have had intake bolts back themselves out. They blamed the anti-seize. I've put a lot of these motors together and never had one back out. Have seen a couple OEM TBI intake manifolds without all their bolts. They don't use anti-seize. So draw your own conclusions... You could also use a couple drops of anaerobic sealant (locktite) if your skeptical. I do this on valve cover and oil pan bolts to prevent them from loosening due to engine vibrations. You won't find that in the FSM either (lol).
If I were you, I would probably change the gasket out just so you don't have RTV squeezed into your intake and exhaust ports. I have reused a low mile intake gasket once after I lost a turbo. Don't really recommend it, but mine re-sealed okay. I personally like the OEM gasket best (but it about twice as expensive). I like them because the gasket is a bit wider than most of the the aftermarket gaskets. Not important if you have a stock head, but seeing how Steve M. did your head, I'm sure your ports are a bit wider than OEM (lol)! With that in mind, did you have any porting done to your intake or exhaust manifolds to compliment your headwork? There is lots you can do to both!
Don't sweat it about the intake bolts passing into the head bolt holes. Headbolts don't pass through water on SOHC heads, so shouldn't leak anything, but just letting you know what I have found. The Mopar part # is 4105745 maybe superseded to 42832000.
Todd

[ohlarikd]

Todd - you had sais "Four of the intake bolts (LH side) penetrate the head bolt cavity as well."

For the exhaust studs, Steve Menegon had already sealed those when he did my head, so that is ok. I can see the white thread sealant.

For all the intake manifold bolts, I used copper anti-seize on all of them. I did not use any RTV. So I *think* what you said was that it is ok? Or should I take it all apart and use RTV for the intake bolts? Clearly, I don't want to do that, but if it's gonna leak, then I will. I'm just not 100% clear yet.

Derek

EDIT: Talked to Todd last night, looks like I am good as-is. The RTV on intake bolts is extra precaution, but not necessary. Not worth taking it all apart.

Derek