L-Body (Rampage) tow hitch options?

[john1320]

We need ideas from all of you out there who do light towing with their Scamp/Rampages.
Anything that requires minor fabbing, as any welding/cutting would be done at a shop.
Perhaps some of you have simple solutions? We have a hitch tongue/clamp from a member here, and he is working with us.
I do want at least 3 different solutions, in case we go a different route altogether.
Links and PMs are welcome

-John

[2.216VTurbo]

You've probably seen this thread but if not, towing with a 'Page is pretty well covered here

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ight=lerampage

[RoadWarrior222]

4th solution is a ball on a plate in the bed and a gooseneck trailer...

[bakes]

I dont want to hear this ramapage is trying pulling a fith wheel.

[RoadWarrior222]

Only a baby 5th wheel setup with a ball and hitch and light trailer... IMHO it would be wayyy safer if you were gonna go up to about 2500lb to do it that way than with a drawbar hitch.... still probably illegal in states that care about manufacturers tow ratings, but safer... relatively.

[john1320]

Only a baby 5th wheel setup with a ball and hitch and light trailer... IMHO it would be wayyy safer if you were gonna go up to about 2500lb to do it that way than with a drawbar hitch.... still probably illegal in states that care about manufacturers tow ratings, but safer... relatively.

I do agree with that being a safer, and far easier solution, with no fear of ripping off the rear bumper or attachment from too much tongue weight.
I still love the trick airbag support 2.216v used- would be perfect for a baby gooseneck

[Badger]

I just need a good quality 2" reciever and an idea of where on the back of the truck would be the best place to mount it. The reciever will be supporting a bike rack and a 40-50lb. bike. Im guessing this would require a class one reciever?

[RoadWarrior222]

2" reciever is usually class III I thought. Good thing about going heavier there though is that it's less likely to be a problem with the load vibrating. Anyway, you'd want your classic, two frame rails to drawbar to receiver type jobbie.

[Badger]

I guess accoeding to the manual the rack will also fit a 1 1/4 class 2 also but, like you mentioned I think a class 3 would be prefered for the vibration reasons.

[john1320]

2" reciever is usually class III I thought. Good thing about going heavier there though is that it's less likely to be a problem with the load vibrating. Anyway, you'd want your classic, two frame rails to drawbar to receiver type jobbie.

And this is one route i have been chasing. I need to find the closest rail-to-rail receiver setup i can find, and then i can elongate the holes and mount it up. I just don't know what the *closest* match might be. Perhaps a Bronco II or S10?
Like i said of one is narrow enough, it can be persuaded to mount and then we're golden!
The hitch setup i have now was purchased from a member, and it mounts directly under the bumper itself, after 4-6 holes are drilled. It worked fine for him, but i would love a stronger option for heavier use.

[Reeves]

So what was the solution? I'm looking for a light duty hitch (small utility trailer) for my Scamp.

[black86glhs]

Hell James, you could probably make one that is stronger than a pre-made one just from your scrap pile....lol.

[contraption22]

The rampage I sold had a couple of 1/4" steel plates bolted between the bumper and the frame, from to which was welded a 2" square tube which was behind the bumper. Welded to that was a universal 2" reciever. It was quite sturdy.

[johnl]

The rampage I sold had a couple of 1/4" steel plates bolted between the bumper and the frame, from to which was welded a 2" square tube which was behind the bumper. Welded to that was a universal 2" reciever. It was quite sturdy.

I bought a Class II hitch assembly from the junk yard; it came off a Caravan. It was too wide for the Rampage frame rails by about two inches, so I added 1"x2" rectangular box to shim out both frame rails to the hitch plates. Then I welded in a 2"x3" piece of box section that runs transversely between the frame rails and tight to the rear edge of the bed. From that there's a hanger to help support the center of the hitch.

[Badger]

Mock_GLH built me one for my rampage similar to what Mike did. If you can weld, and you have access to scrap metal, it doesnt look that hard.

[Reeves]

The rampage I sold had a couple of 1/4" steel plates bolted between the bumper and the frame, from to which was welded a 2" square tube which was behind the bumper. Welded to that was a universal 2" reciever. It was quite sturdy.

That's a good plan. I'll look into that later. I was planning on hauling a small utility trailer to the Mopar Nats to haul my Golfed Cart in. But no need now!

[bigbarneycars]

Bungy cords from the door jams to the stearing column and you're good tah go. Jes remember NO HOLE SHOTS!

[jaysshelby]

That's a good plan. I'll look into that later. I was planning on hauling a small utility trailer to the Mopar Nats to haul my Golfed Cart in. But no need now!

might want to turn the golf cart around since the rear of the cart is heavier and put that weight in front of the rear wheel of the SCAMP.

[135sohc]

That's a good plan. I'll look into that later. I was planning on hauling a small utility trailer to the Mopar Nats to haul my Golfed Cart in. But no need now!

you need some airbags on that thing.

[RoadWarrior222]

might want to turn the golf cart around since the rear of the cart is heavier and put that weight in front of the rear wheel of the SCAMP.

good plan....

But however much sense it makes to haul a car backwards on a bed, no-one ever wants to do it!