The Holset he341 3.0L

[Ondonti]

Drill out bigger. I said it was opposite day :P

Just a quick google.

My restrictor might be a little larger then that. I don't remember. I might have gone .080" or whatever size I had a drillbit in.
*Add $8 for stainless steel oil restrictor with .035" hole(GT turbos).
*Add $8 for stainless steel 1/8" oil restrictor with .060" hole.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2239281

I went with the larger return because I have had problems in the past getting fuel pressure down to 30psi. I also expand the knurled ends of all my fuel lines to get that last little bit. I do it on the tank sending unit, the filter, etc. Even if you run a big return, the smallest point is probably the return line on the sending unit. Expand that out without messing up the rest of the diameter (so the quick connect fits) and you will help flow at that bottleneck.

My previous walbro got messed up and I was not sure what was going on with fuel pressure. I did it as a just in case. My wideband was also broken still so I thought maybe I was rich and that the pump was not as damaged as it really was.



But I did have issues with oil going past my PT67 until I upgraded my crankcase evac setup. I was getting too much blowbye on the built motor and it was pressurizing the oil return. I upgraded my evac and added a restrictor and the turbo stopped leaking past the wheels.

Now I am thinking I might need a restrictor on my Holset.
Personally I would go larger then .060", like .080".
That looks like GT series .035" restrictor.

[Sundance 6g72]

im thinking the bigger return wont be needed for me.. stock fuel pressure. Ill see about drilling out that restrictor to .080

[Ondonti]

Hah, yeah. With OEM pressures you will be fine.

[Sundance 6g72]

can i get your VE table to go off of ? i know itl be different but i need one that actually covers BOOST. the highest mine goes is 113 fuel load (map? )

[Ondonti]

This is an original. The cells out of boost that changed are questionable because this was from an autotune experiment where my failed oil pump spun a bearing. This was before and after and the VE change seemed very suspect.

I am pretty sure I removed fuel progressively as RPM's got higher.

I did it like this so it would be super safe in boost until I did datalogs and started removing fuel based on the datalogs. I just added 20 to every cell in boost and then removed fuel as needed when tuning.
This was for stock heads with my big cam, and it still needed to remove fuel up top. What is weird is that the lower rpm cells did not need to add fuel. Not sure why it needed so much more fuel in boost. Thing is that with a turbo, its so hard to really datalog the 85kpa area (that was near N/A wot at high elevation) because its impossible to really be in that cell for long enough to get much data.
The good thing is that n/a, its okay to be a LOT leaner
This also doesn't show my lean spool spot where i removed fuel in the spool zone. Only way I am going to look at my megasquirt stuff is if I give up on the Spirit's OEM ecu. The Spirit feels so down on power with this cam that I am really tempted to Steal the Duster's MS2/E

I think that the AIS problems I am having are what makes the idle area impossible to get right. I might add it to my list to work on the Duster's AIS so if I can get that car running right, I might feel better about stealing the ECU. Problem with doing that will be that the Duster will no longer run. Oh well. I was also never able to get the tach to work right when I had it in piggyback mode.

Note, big gap between 2000 and 3000 is because I didn't really care about out of boost numbers, which should be reflected in my lack of n/a load points as well. I was looking for maximum tunability in the danger zones until I got more comfortable with the engines demeanor.

[Sundance 6g72]

i will have to read that ^ about 5 times before any of it sticks in my head xO

but i might be able to help you.. maybe. My new throttle body keeps my idle low due to me manually setting the idle valve to the closed position. i never even wired ms into the idle valve because im to lazy. Ive held the same idle of 950 without touching the throttle stop. its at 1100 right no but thats after i ported and polished it. to lazy to get to the idle stop screw.. if anything the high idle helps with leaving from a stop. i remember when i first got the TB on i stalled a few times... i was used to a 1600rpm idle that launched me everytime i let off the clutch!

im sure you explained it but why is there such a little amount of cells for the out of boost area. im assuming KPA means fuel load? because thats how mine is.. my idle is around 28kpa but your table starts at 38 then jumps to 52. what about a kpa of lets say 43? with the NA table you get everything nailed down pretty well. why cant we just run a big table?

[Ondonti]

High elevation = less vac at idle and 85kpa = WOT.

All I care about is data collection and tunability in boost. This is not my current map but my current map has the same breakdowns, just a few different cell numbers. I don't have my current map or the software installed to look at it. MS just averages between cells so you always have a VE value and timing value. MS averages based on how close or far you are from each cell. Since I am not trying to max out n/a tune, I don't care. I want my n/a tune to be lean when cruising for Economy on E85 and otherwise I don't care if anything is optimized. There is no way I can go WOT at 5000 rpms and be out of boost, and at most RPMS, the moment you go WOT, you will go above ambient KPA right away.

[Sundance 6g72]

i kinda get what your saying

speaking of wich, i was wondering about cruising and what the boost gauge would read while cruising at 35mph in 5th.. is it still at a high vacume or really close to 0?

[bond_bbs]

I would think you'd be pulling Vac. 35mph in fifth - you should barely be touching your gas. My DD at ~55 km/h in 5th is only like 1200 rpm, and the throttle is just barely open.

[Ondonti]

its gonna be much less vac then 35mph in 4th or 3rd. You need a lot of throttle to cruise that speed in 5th.

It doesn't really matter. Datalog a drive and then break it down and retune. I know there are automatic datalog digesters but its pretty easy on your own.

[Ondonti]

For some crazy reason when I was looking at the speedo wire and trying to yank it out of the long passenger side of the engine bay harness, I started pulling everything apart and taking pictures. Oh me, Oh My. I have to drive this thing to work monday cause my brother is in town and just got a summer job.

The entire harness is now bear from ECU to passenger side. Not sure if I can pull this off today because I started finding auto trans wires that splice off and go into the body connector Now I have to eat and then look through the wiring diagrams.

[Ondonti]

Well I ate then managed to finish with the wires right quick. Only scary one was the TPs wire which I accidentally cut near the ECU but I just pulled the wire that goes to the engine harness (it goes to a splice near the alternator) and connected that wire near the ecu after snipping off the extra.

Now I want to go look for some smaller convoluted tubing. I don't have the size I need so I am off to look for it. Hoping either hardware or auto parts stores have it. The convoluted tubing is already too big for the wires that are there and I just removed a bunch more.

[RoadWarrior222]

Computer stores can have it too as "cable tidy" but usually want arm+leg for it.

[Vigo]

Are you talking about wire loom?

[Ondonti]

I bought 1/2" loom/convoluted tubing and it was a little too small so I found 4 more wires to remove. What the heck is an ambient switch that goes to the overhead console which I don't have? Stupid Chrysler wasted soooooooo much money wiring these cars very poorly.

Walbro didn't make a bit of difference in fueling so I think the modifications I did to the regulator when trying to use it on my dual pump setup make it not work so well anymore for a normal setup.

I think my next step will be to hotwire the fuel pump even though that should do absolutely nothing. Might increase the base pressure a bit too.
I also bought some stuff for a battery tie down but I don't know how well it will work out.

[Vigo]

I think my next step will be to hotwire the fuel pump even though that should do absolutely nothing.

At least you are honest with yourself.

How can the regulator cause fueling issues? All you did was enlarge orifices, right? A regulator with enlarged orifices is just like a 50mm wastegate vs a 38mm. It just opens less to relieve the same amount of pressure.

[Ondonti]

I don't know if the upper diaphragm is working correctly. The real gain on return line flow was made when enlarging the seat that the thin piece of metal (diaphragm) presses on when "rising the rate in boost."
Now, when I adjust the point of onset (top adjustment) it will change base pressure just like the lower adjustment. Not sure why that happens and neither is Corky Bell.

The rate of gain is full in which is what is ruining my fun. I have never needed to have it maxed out. Could be that the regulator is not happy or the diapragm is hurting but I don't know how to diagnose that.

Right now the only real option I have for changing fueling is the base rate. The funny thing about this regulator is you can use the point of onset to create a base pressure without using the actual base rate diaphragm/seat/adjuster on the bottom. Because of that. I don't think adjusting the base rate will help unless I match the base rate pressure with the preset on the point of onset. Thats what I usually do. I turn the point of onset up until it increases fuel pressure then back it off to "almost no increase."

-----------------------------------------

On the good side, I finished cleaning up the wiring. Most annoying thing was that my backup lamps would not turn on. After a bunch of trouble shooting, I figured out that the switch was bad. Took 2 switches out of transmissions in the shed any only one of them was good. The bad switches still sorta work but they have a much higher resistance and they do not seem able to carry enough current to light up the bulb. Not sure how many ohms because this junky ohmeter screen is jacked up. I think it was 30 something ohms or more. The good one was less them 1 ohm. Had no backup lamps for years

Fuel pump is now hotwired with 10 gauge. I saved the old hotwire kit from my Duster. Grounded with 10 gauge a foot from the pump.

Speedometer has been "hotwired" directly from the sensor to the cluster. That should skirt around whatever was grounding it out before when the lights were on. Still not sure if it works yet. I am now taking power from the backup lamps power wire but I don't think I cut the speedo power wire from wherever it starts. I guess I wanted to see if it works first.

[Sundance 6g72]

How does one hotwire the pump? I might have some nice thick wire to use. Does it matter that im using megasquirt?

[RoadWarrior222]

What the heck is an ambient switch that goes to the overhead console which I don't have?

Maybe the button that switches between Fahrenheit and Celsius for the outside ambient temp display, or that switches between electronic compass and temperature readout.

[Ondonti]

Ambient switch pigtail was at the passenger turn signal area in the front bumper. weird stuff.
I also removed some custom splice into the starter relay wire that served no purpose. no idea how the car was starting. Used car dealer must have hotwired over it. The Yellow wire that activates the starter relay was cut and then spliced into a a weird harness with 6 wires. THen another wire went back towards the other end of the yellow starter wire. Maybe the intent was to prevent the car from starting unless something was plugged into the 6 pin connector. It used to be on the bottom of the interior below the steering wheel but I removed the screws and shoved it back into the dash years ago.
I checked for continuity between the 2 halves of the wire and there was an electrical bond, but I don't know where it was happening because the two pins on the connector did not meet. This is something that was on the car in the 1990's.
I really hope the speedo works and then I never have to tear apart my harness. If it works, then instead of Murphy's idea of running a relay which caused him problems, I will just run a switched signal to the ECU for Cruise control if I really want it.

Oh, I removed 9 pounds of weight with my battery swap (soon to be only 8 pounds after I get my permanent clamp isntalled). The original battery is 30 pounds. Must be an Omni battery or something.
Removed 2 pounds of wiring and loom.
Removed the evap solenoid and canister which only weigh 3 pounds total. I removed the long steel evap line when I upgraded my return line. Probably only 1 pound savings there after adding back in the larger return line.
Anyways. I will call that 14 pounds of weight savings if I ignore any minute weight that I added.

I took pictures of the wiring mess so I will get those up tomorrow or late late late Monday night after work.