The Holset he341 3.0L

[RoadWarrior222]

Actually there was a verilog or similar code reproduction of a 6811 available on the net, that you can burn to a FPGA deally and run at 35mhz or so, was kinda wondering if you could flash that to a big array, have room for a SD card interface and usb controller on it, mount it up on a daughterboard and snap it on over the top of the old CPU... ... but yup timers might get screwed.

[Ondonti]

Doesn't overclocking sorta screw a few things up slightly? The 3000gt guys do it. 7800 would probably be fine for a daily :P

After building fun maps for megasquirt in boost, I don't know if instant across the board spark retard would be very satisfying. The 3.0 can handle a bunch of timing at low boost on pump gas. Brian's suggestion would equate to 1 boost level and needing a new chip for another boost level. People with smaller turbos would probably need to take out timing at lower rpms at lower boost levels because they spool at a lower rpm. When I use my ears to set base timing I put it in 3rd and bog it at 2000 rpms and see if it will knock. Our torque peak knocks first.

Someone could spend a lot of effort to make something that ends up being semi effective but burn the person out when it comes to ever improving things further.
Leaving huge amounts of power on the table after all that work =

I am pretty happy with the E85 spark tables I have and pump gas would just lead me to drop off things to more reasonable levels. Mopar3.0 Kirk said that he added a LOT of timing up top and found some big gains there, but he was very heavily modified (tubular headers and custom plenum).

The other thing I have been struggling with is the fact that six 30# injectors only provide so much fuel. The RRR does expand the functionality of injectors when it comes to supportable HP. 7800 rpms and 10 pounds of boost could take a lot of fuel. All these things make me nervous about a ghetto cal. Finding out that some problems end up being worse or more finicky would suck. Reving 1600 rpms higher = much higher need for fuel. Things like that will make it harder to have a nice RRR tune and make it more important to have boost comprehension. I don't really have a valid argument to make either way because talking about something that has not happened since people were hacking 3.0 cals in 2002 is not very satisfying. Getting hopes up that will never come true.

I real 3.0 cal sounds great. N/A cal would be awesome. Been waiting so long I don't have an oem n/a 3.0 to bother with now. Hope it works cal vs fix anything I want, anytime I want. I know the 2.x guys who have flashable setups LOVE them and would never go back.
The only thing the OEM style cal brings for me is a feeling of reliability, plus decent driving manners when the car is hardly modded.

[Ondonti]

A little mad at myself. I said I was going to defeat the pressure relief valve on the intank walbro and I forgot. Now, who knows if I can remove those stupid straps again. Guess I will have to ignore that for now.

[Aries_Turbo]

you could always pull the tank before the strap studs get rusty again.

brian

[bakes]

i dont know if the factory controller can do 8200.

maybe 7800

Brian

8127.5 rpm is the hightest Mptune will scale it to not 8200 but close enough.

[Aries_Turbo]

im not saying that, im saying that there isnt enough processor overhead to support that high of rpm.

[Ondonti]

Maybe I should just pack some grease on there to keep it form further corroding. I am more worried about the passenger side where I now have some damaged threads at the end thanks to the nutplate innards getting caught in the threads. That one sucked to get back on without making more damage.

I actually think defeating the pressure relief is VERY important on a RRR setup, not just for a huge increase in fuel flow. Whats the point of cranking up fuel pressure to match boost if your pump just bypasses most of that fuel. AMS fuel pump tests have shown the intank walbro to outflow the external walbro (that has no relief) when the intank relief is defeated. They both flow crazy amounts of fuel at incredibly high pressures when there is no relief.

I think the first thing I want to do is snip that speed sensor wire at the ecu. I bet that would also improve my decel characteristics because it wouldnt wide open the AIS whenever I am moving. I don't understand why the AIS would be programmed to do anything but maintain idle in various conditions. I don't have the a/c belt on but when I put it on thats gonna be another thing the AIS needs to deal with.

[Ondonti]

Bleck. Broke the relief valve. Drilled it out and removed the expansion plug and the broken plastic below it. The spring is MIA. Put a piece of screw and expoxy in the hole. Pump is probably gonna fail with that spring possibly inside stuck somewhere. Go me. I think I should have just knocked it down a little and then used epoxy. The only thing that really bothers me as this point is tryign to figure out if the pump is gonna die on me. I powered up the pump with 2 wires and its not dead yet Probably not a great idea to drive it to work the moment I get the pump back in. It probably broke well before I knocked it all the way in. I took pictures of where it was and I think the plastic where the check ball goes had already broken. There was never any resistance that I felt beccause I was just wacking away freehand while holding the pump in my hand. Awesome.

[Ondonti]

Looks like I am being forced to work this weekend so I guess I have no excuse not to buy a new pump. I am still gonna try out the one I ruined.

I installed the pump after the expoxy dried. I only makes about 65psi when I fully clamp the return line. I took a video of me ramping up pressure and then raping it back down. Can't really post it right now because my lappy is dead and thats where I transfer videos.

Not sure if the pump is crap or the gauge. While the gauge read 30psi previously.......with how rich it has been running I wonder if the gauge is crap.
I turned down both the rate of gain and base rate until the pressure read an indicated 25psi (about as low as you can get it without the set screws falling out). Will probably jump higher then that when Is start the car. I was just jumping the fuel pump relay which is probably what I will do from now on when I need to mess with fuel pressure or things like that. I ran the pump for a good 10 minutes off the battery and it did not seem to have any obvious problems other then the above.

I figured that with the pump running full blast and me clamping the return line REALLY fast, that it would peg the gauge at 100, especially since there is no longer any relief valve. That is why I am wondering if the gauge is crap.

Innovative taking a million years is making this worse. I want to buy a new pump but the penny pincher in me is screaming noooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

[RoadWarrior222]

Sometimes you just have to get your inner TM-er drunk on sterno and buy crap while his faculties are impaired.

[Vigo]

Isnt there a possibility that even with the mod, the pump is now internally leaking or bypassing SOMEWHERE? Harbor freight sells a gauge set for 10-15$, ive bought 2 (one just for the fittings on it..) and they work. Ive still got the one i paid more for but its in worse shape at this point! The harbor freight one comes with a rubber thing around the gauge which probably would have helped my $40 one..

[Ondonti]

might be cheaper to install the oem pump and see what it can produce. Its actualy sorta cool running your fuel system without the car on. Whirring sound + dripping sound in the tank from the return. I have my Walbro in the Duster's original housing so its an easy swap.
Going to see if the car will drive now :P

Innovate is testing my patience though.

[Irocelectric93]

What's wrong with your WB? What kind of innovate did you get?

[Ondonti]

I got the MTX-L. The POS won't turn on 50% of the time and once it fails to turn on it will not turn on for awhile. Once it succeeds to turn on it will turn on every time you apply power.
That is not compatible with me using its simulated narrowband signal because the car goes into limp mode when the Innovate MTX-L craps out.
Also, since I messed around with the fuel pump i can no longer play with boost because I have no wideband.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/returns.php

These guys really need a frivolous lawsuit or two. 15 days to return something after they print your invoice = impossible to return! You get it 3 days after they print, The moment you get it you request a return (no time to even look at it) and if you get the return code its after the return limitation.

Maybe they will send me a return code after another 3 months when their "warranty" runs out. What joke. It feels like they are yelling when they talk about how I am responsible for all shipping costs even when its their fault the thing is broken. I understand that they want to screw me but they really should ship me out a mailing label.

I am still down with reversing charges on them if I have to. Its been 3 months but they have not delivered the proper product.

[RoadWarrior222]

It feels like they are yelling when they talk about how I am responsible for all shipping costs even when its their fault the thing is broken. I understand that they want to screw me but they really should ship me out a mailing label.

I hate the DO NOT RETURN TO STORE crap I see on a lot of stuff these days, it must be because they know the stores will stop stocking it because it's a POS, bugger, that, if it's faulty it goes back to the store.... when they're busy... and I can discuss the particular inadequacies of the part, the store, the manager and his parents in a loud voice that everyone can hear....

And that shipping thing bites arse, gotta be something worth more than $50 to be worth bothering, think that's how a lot of them get away with it. If I was feeling particularly screwed though, I'd start picking appliances up off the curb and sending them to them freight forward.

[Ondonti]

If feels like the immigration system. Make the process so annoying that you give up and break their windows instead. They can also play the "hope the item gets lost in shipping with no insurance because the customer already feels ripped off as it is" game. Thats probably why they state that if the return code they never give you is not "conspicuously" on the box, they will refuse the package. Who says they don't just decide "oh crap, this RMA number is something we are gonna get screwed by, kick that box to the curb." woo

[Irocelectric93]

I got the MTX-L. The POS won't turn on 50% of the time and once it fails to turn on it will not turn on for awhile. Once it succeeds to turn on it will turn on every time you apply power.
That is not compatible with me using its simulated narrowband signal because the car goes into limp mode when the Innovate MTX-L craps out.
Also, since I messed around with the fuel pump i can no longer play with boost because I have no wideband.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/returns.php

These guys really need a frivolous lawsuit or two. 15 days to return something after they print your invoice = impossible to return! You get it 3 days after they print, The moment you get it you request a return (no time to even look at it) and if you get the return code its after the return limitation.

Maybe they will send me a return code after another 3 months when their "warranty" runs out. What joke. It feels like they are yelling when they talk about how I am responsible for all shipping costs even when its their fault the thing is broken. I understand that they want to screw me but they really should ship me out a mailing label.

I am still down with reversing charges on them if I have to. Its been 3 months but they have not delivered the proper product.

This is great news. (sarcasm) I have an LC-1 for the Iroc Daytona thats installed but have never finished it since i don't have my boosted motor in. For my srt-4 i bought an MTX-L...its sitting right next to me. I bought it RIGHT when they came out since they said the install was super easy BLAH BLAH. I got mine off an ebay store..but havent installed yet because i need to go buy some stainless TIG rod to weld the bung in my downpipe. I just hope both my widebands don't turn out as crap. One thing i like about the MTX is not having to recal the sensor every 6 months or whatever.

[Ondonti]

Well the MTX-L seems like a product that they are not supporting very well. I am sure they don't yet understand its possible failures. They don't even include it on the return list of items you can send back. The LC-1 has been around for a long time so the bugs should be worked out. I just miss the customer service and "customer is always right" attitude at Zietronix. I am back peddling and just hoping Innovate won't completely screw me.

My bet is they will tell me over the phone to request an RMA again. Thinking about how long this is shutting me down is painful. Even if I finally mail it, how long till I get something back and have time to install it? I am thinking I will be 1.5 months without wideband. I fried, mailed and got my Zietronix back in less then 2 weeks.

[Sundance 6g72]

when you do the pressure bypass mod or whatever its called on the wally 255, what exactly are you accomplishing? im thinking about doing it as well but im not going to push this motor to 500hp with insane timing and a huge turbo.

i guess im not sure if its right for me to do

[Vigo]

It doesnt really have to do with hp level, it just has to do with your fuel pressure. Rising rate regulators are mostly used to get more power out of 'small' injectors by raising the fuel pressure at a higher than 1:1 ratio with boost. Depending on the ratio (adjustable) and the boost level, this can result in really high fuel pressures, even over 100 psi.

The walbro has an internal bypass that starts bypassing pumped fuel back into the tank instead of into the fuel line when you get up to 75 psi or something like that. So if you wanted to use a setup with very high fuel pressure, you would need to disable that bypass for the walbro to make that pressure and still support the volume requirements.