The Holset he341 3.0L

[bakes]

you could try putting a restrictor in the map vac line to slow down/mellow out out the cam pulses at idle

[Ondonti]

Direct head swap from the Duster that had the mechanical rockers, regrind, and the heads were stock temporary on the Duster while my good heads were getting repaired.

The turbo is the real problem because its easier to spool. Even my 6765 had boost creep when i first put it together. I blame the cams for the actual creep. The creep has not been as bad recently. I don't know why.
I can't use the 6765 anymore now that the downpipe has been modified.

---------- Post added at 06:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 PM ----------

you could try putting a restrictor in the map vac line to slow down/mellow out out the cam pulses at idle

I also need to do some pretty basic stuff like a boost/vacuum leak check. What do you think a restrictor will do? I have one on my RRR vacuum line. OEM vacuum gauge only reads about 7 inches at idle lol. I don't know how accurate it is.

I could run a vacuum line to my Duster and read it digitally on the Zeitronix or use a manual testing gauge.

[Irocelectric93]

I forgot about the holsets 4" outlet. That does pose a problem for a swap. Cams are probably an issue spooling that holset real easy for you. If you say that the creep hasn't been as bad lately then i really don't know. I was going to suggest looking for vac/boost leaks as well.

[Ondonti]

The cams do hurt spool and bottom end but I am thinking that my tires love me for it!

[Irocelectric93]

True. Too bad its not tuned better. Car sounds like it would be pretty nasty.

[Ondonti]

Its nasty, but its the decel shuddering that is bothering me right now. Our oem computers are easy to get running decently WOT, its the Speed sensor AIS integration and things like that which suck.
Its the speed sensor thats telling the ECU to let the AIS dump air into the plenum when the car is moving, then cutting off air when I come to a stop. Thats sorta how our stuff works. It just seems to be too exaggerated right now.


Also annoyed by the leftover exhaust leaks but those are not my priority.

[Sundance 6g72]

Its nasty, but its the decel shuddering that is bothering me right now. Our oem computers are easy to get running decently WOT, its the Speed sensor AIS integration and things like that which suck.
Its the speed sensor thats telling the ECU to let the AIS dump air into the plenum when the car is moving, then cutting off air when I come to a stop. Thats sorta how our stuff works. It just seems to be too exaggerated right now.


Also annoyed by the leftover exhaust leaks but those are not my priority.

have you tried running with AIS unplugged? my duster ran fine (stock, just bolt ons) all summer but once winter hit i had to up my idle with the throttle stop and once the car warmed up it was idling around 1200rpms. wasnt to annoying until i got the 3inch exhaust.

i tried running with no AIS again sense winter is gone but for some reason the AIS sensor opens up gradually and idles really high (does this on all 3 of my throttle bodys even though they are unplugged)

found that the actually sensor is backing its self out so i just run with it plugged in but maybe it would work for you as long as it dosnt back out like mine do. idk

[Ondonti]

I have not tried anything yet with the sensors. My megasquirt AIS wiring was not working properly so I never got it dialed in and in the Duster I didn't care about the high idle since I rarely drive it. The duster has the AIS motor and mounting piece from a 3.5L intrepid.
Makes me wonder if maybe the 3.5L sensor would fit better in the 58mm TB then the one from the 52mm (which is what I think is installed, its been 9 years :P ) I really don't remember how some of those basic things work anymore because I have been so deep into 3.0 places that we don't belong.
I get home from work late at night and rarely get up early enough to touch a car, let alone start it up.
First goal is just to swap the OEM o2 sensor back in so I can drive it and get the wideband unit replaced. Amazing how little progress I make on these things when I actually have a job. I talk about something as simple as the fuel filter and pump but its not gonna happen anytime soon.
I finally got my immigration financial support paperwork sent out and now I need to get both the wideband and my laptop warranty reparied, and extend the deadline for my last college class and hopefully finish it. I said no to voluntary weekend work but I might spend that fixing a Ford. There was talk today about making weekends mandatory. I won't get much done working 2:30pm to 1:00am when I am a night person and stay up after work. Unfortunately making extra money doesn't help car projects that I like to do. I am so used to doing things with no money the last few years. I should not have rebuilt this motor myself. I should have bought new parts and paid a machine shop while working Saturdays back when it was voluntary. Could have paid to build a forged shortblock in the same time spent not being at work. That said, I don't think I could talk myself into spending the money anyways.

[Ondonti]

I thought of an interesting technical issue. Bigger TB = more air...but not more fuel. So the map sensor will provide some more fuel but you won't get the same help from whatever TPS enrichment is.
This thing runs darn lean until its WOT then it jumps right where it should be.
No work Saturday so I am gonna try to swap the fuel pump and filter. Not sure if I will be able to get the tank straps loose. Those fasteners suck.
Waiting on authorization to return my wideband for service. Plugged in a narrowband OEM sensor and got to drive to work on this beautiful Friday
The wideband sensor was sooty black whereas the OEM sensor was clean. I will see what the OEM sensor looks like after awhile.

When the pump is done then I will see how low I can get the fuel pressure to go on the OEM 1/4" return line. Hopefully near 30. I actually want to try dropping fuel pressure into the high/mid 20's but I know its not possible with a walbro, even with an upgraded return line.
I can always cheat and get a Hobbs switch plus some diodes to drop voltage to the pump when out of boost (instead of upgrading the return line). The return line will be the bottleneck because the regulator is crazy hogged out and even the turns are radius'd from back when it was on the Duster with 1/2" return line and twin hotwired Walbros (It still couldn't drop pressure so I had to run diodes to drop pump voltage).

Then when I get fuel pressure as low as it goes, I will start messing around with vacuum leaks and investigating the AIS. I almost think my biggest problem is actually the speed sensor input, not the AIS. Keeps the engine rev'd up real high until i drop below ~10mph, at which point it wants to stall when cold.

Get her happy and I can play with some boost safely.

[Spiritman]

u get that thing running yet? geez yr as pokey as i am. any progress today?

[Ondonti]

haha, you had to make a new account. Read the darn thread Kyle! Not like your 6262 3.0 has moved 3 inches in 6 months! Rear end is up on jackstands as we speak to attempt to loosen the fuel tank straps. I had to fix a stupid Ford first on my first Saturday off.

[Aries_Turbo]

torch the nuts and bolts and spray them with penetrating lube many times before trying to loosen them.

ive gotten them loose without breaking them.

as far as the fueling/cal... have you talked to rob if he has something for the 94 ecu?

can you plug in a 90 and will it work?

i know we can tweak 90 3.0L ecus.

Brian

[Irocelectric93]

PB and an impact go a long way on fuel tank straps.

[Ondonti]

94 SBEC II = 3d = screwed.

I got the straps off. I took a fresh nut down as far as I safely could after all the wire brushing that I could fit up there (didn't have a small brush handy). Soaking it in some penetrant each time I did something.
I ended up taking a razor blade to the threads nearest to the nuts and tryign to cut out any rust that I could. That worked pretty good. Got them off.
Problem happened when one went on easy and the other stopped after only a few turns. I backed it off and found that the stupid clip that holds the nut in place had part of itself going into the threads and chewing things up. That almost ruined my night. Put a few spare nuts on down as far as they would go without hurting things more trying to clean it up a little. I took a chinese tap set that you can't use the dies on (total crap) and slightly oversized another nut using the crap m8 1.25 tap. Then I was able to get it on with a washer to hold the strap up. I was really mad when everything was going okay and something completely out of my control happened to damage the threads. Wish I had a decent tap and die set.

So now my Walbro is in and the filter is replaced. I guess I must have replaced it last in 2005 because I can see some napa style fuel clamps (with a good hex head size compared to some crap I have seen) and some new hose attached to the OEM quick connects. I actually really like those things.

Too late to start her up. Need to get the fuel pressure as low as it will go now. Took a few pics but my laptop which is easier to get the pictures from, is dead. This walbro module has the fittings expanded out at the ends where they pinch down. I did the same thign to the filter then it would not fit the quick connect until sanded down the mushroom I created :P I think I must have cut off the tips of the module back in the day.

[Aries_Turbo]

rob has the 3d r/t stuff figured out.

i wonder how bad it would be just to define a few select tables so you could get the shape of the fuel curve correct so that the rrr would work better.

then take the timing values right before 0 vac and drop them some for safety.

Brian

[bakes]

you forgot the Rpm can now be raised to 8200 as well and injectors can be scaled.

[RoadWarrior222]

Unacceptable! .... want 10,000 RPM...




Not really, me be building for middle end grunt.... though come to think of it, maybe I do want to go more than 70 in 2nd gear...

[Aries_Turbo]

you forgot the Rpm can now be raised to 8200 as well and injectors can be scaled.

i dont know if the factory controller can do 8200.

maybe 7800

Brian

[RoadWarrior222]

Swap the clock crystal, add a heatsink

[Aries_Turbo]

then the software timers need to be retimed.

i think the 68hc11 can be ran faster but i dont know about all the rest of the hardware.

brian