The Holset he341 3.0L

[Ondonti]

DRB ii purchased Should be fun with no instruction book. Didn't really need one with the OTC2000 that I used before (which could active monitor).

[RoadWarrior222]

Some general hints here, but with focus on diagging SRS on stealths...
http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/DRB.html

hmmm the pdf manual is reputedly in the wild but links to above server are dead, can't get google to turn it up..

[Ondonti]

So the coolant leak that stuck me in the middle of a mountain pass while towing a car in fall 2010 resprung. Radiator is good but what happened in 2010 was the coolant bypass metal section rusted through. Anyways, last week after the radiator was solved, another leak became more obvious. Took it apart Saturday morning. I thought it was the water pump (still might need looking at, I pulled the timing belt already) and then I was getting annoyed by the intake manifold preventing me from seeing into the block valley so i removed it. When I removed the coolant bypass clamp from the intake manifold, I tugged on the hose and instead of the hose coming off, the pipe came out of the intake manifold.

I engineered a not so awesome fix but I will see how it goes. Trimmed down and then hammered in a brass barb fitting that I had sitting around (no pipe taps in my collection).

A little frustrating.

On the good side, I readjusted my bobble strut. I had it preloaded the opposite direction that I like. It was pulling down very hard instead of slightly pushing up on the trans.
Vigo drove my car last week and probably felt the awesomeness of how I have had the bobble strut maladjusted for....about 4 years. Once I got the bobble strut happy, the side trans mount bolt is now easy to remove/install. It was almost impossible before. I don't know why I didn't fix this years ago (especially since I have done a clutch swap in the mean time and multiple teardowns of the timing belt and even the complete shortblock rebuild).

[Ondonti]

Put intake manifold on, still small leak. Dried everything off. Water pump weep hole. So the seal must have failed on the water pump. I guess its actually a good thing they failed at the same time!
Problem? The machine screw on the water pump housing had to be drilled out. I have a spare pump (questionable so I won't use it) and the same thing happened on that.

Not sure where to get a replacement. Can't use a bolt because it needs to be flush for clearance to the block. Grrr. Why they designed it like that I do not know.

[paduster]

Do u have a fastenal near you they should have it I know they do near me I was looking at them saying I knew what they would be used for but didn't put it together till u just said that about yours. Is if mine had them in stock if you have one near you they should be able to at least order it for you

[Ondonti]

I decided to just go for a complete new waterpump with housing. The housing on mine looks like it has been "repaired" before on the O ring surface. Not sure if that is something I did years ago or not. I might have smoothed JB weld around the surface even as recently as last summer. Rather spend the extra money to take away the chance that it leaks there.
I have a spare waterpump that shouldn't have too many miles but the bearings sound fishy.

[paduster]

Don't blame you there

[Vigo]

Reason prevails! Also the reason i didnt take the spirit up to high rpm was because it spun 2nd easily and 3rd goes to 90 mph. You had me scared about cops!

[Ondonti]

Well then you made the right decision. Cops are cracking down on my route to work and the operation is in the newspapers etc. Not sure why. Usually the traffic prevents anyone from speeding. They are trying to be seen while radaring you to scare you slow.

[Ondonti]

DRB II let me know that the a/c circuit was always on. Pulled plugs until the radiator fan turned off and the scanner still said a/c switch off. Tore apart the dash but ended up pulling the ecu a/c switch wire 1" back from the ecu pin (so I can push it back in when I fix the a/c switch circuit). This keeps the faulted circuit from telling the ecu that the a/c is "on."

So I have been running high idle (demanded 880 vs 840) and constant fan in all driving conditions. Not sure if timing changes at all with that.

Happy that I know my problem and the fan is off. Found that my radiator relay connections are getting bad (or more likely the relay) because it doesn't want to kick on the fan doing relay tests until I mess with it or wack it against something (after unplugging and replugging). It didn't do this until I unplugged it during diagnosis yesterday.
No a/c for now but I had the belt off for the whole last year anyways. Not sure if it will get warm enough to need a/c but my little boy might want it if things get nice outside.

Took off my snow chain compatible tires and have 15" rims on again. Motor mounts are adjusted with the opposite preload that I had before on the bobble (now the same as my Duster).

[Sundance 6g72]

does your cranner tell you ignition advance?

[Ondonti]

does your cranner tell you ignition advance?

Yup, I can see everything. 12-20 degrees of advance at idle during a cold start (plus base timing of 12). Never taken it out but I plan to someday since I can see everything about timing. I figure i can video record the scanner.

[Vigo]

You can probably set it up to record a few parameters and display them as a graph for replay. Very short-term logging, basically. Lose it when you turn the scanner off or overwrite it. I know how to do this with Snap-on solus, modus, verdict but ive never used a DRBII.

Opened up a 91 3.0 cal earlier and found a table for max allowable advance from rpm. i think it was 52 until higher rpm. So plus base sounds like the ecu COULD advance all the way to 60 btdc. This is useless info, just blabbing.

[Force Fed Mopar]

When will you guys learn that on a stock computer, "base" timing is not added to the total?

[Vigo]

That's why we're adding it ourselves... unless you mean the computer includes an assumed number in all its totals.

[Ondonti]

That's why we're adding it ourselves... unless you mean the computer includes an assumed number in all its totals.

Lost myself

[Ondonti]

Just changed the narrowband output set points to 17.58 and 18.02 AFR and I will see how that goes. I know when it gets too high you get misfire even under VERY light load so I hope its okay to work. 17.8 was what I remember being okay with on Zeitronix but that did not let me change the range, just the midpoint.

[Ondonti]

Super lean running after warmup drives well. Tiny amount of surging sometimes. Cold start driving home from work and it wants to misfire under medium load so I have to be more aggressive or careful on the throttle (no middle ground). Gets into closed loop and its fine.

Drifter in a RWD Celica ruined my MPG chase. Swerving speeding car flybyes me. I go 4th and catch him then sit behind him on the freeway exit as he is swerving side to side Drift style yo! He comes out of the exit corner on the gas and I do the same but with tires spinning. Did that again around another secondary corner. He decides to drive really slow and let me pass him. I obliged him with the rev limiter in 2nd and he left.

[RoadWarrior222]

Nice, keep us updated on the lean burn experiments...

The machine screw on the water pump housing had to be drilled out. I have a spare pump (questionable so I won't use it) and the same thing happened on that.

Not sure where to get a replacement. Can't use a bolt because it needs to be flush for clearance to the block. Grrr. Why they designed it like that I do not know.

Hmmm it's sounding like I might have decapitated a bolt and sawed a slot in it had I come across that. New pump is good though... though these days I'd say, "If it's an OEM part that looks like it's got more than 10,000 miles left in it, use it, coz it's something like 3:1 that you'll get a craptastic replacement that only lasts 5-8,000."

[Ondonti]

---------- Post added at 11:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 PM ----------

3 Speed needed new rear center lights so I installed the cool ones that I have been saving.