The Holset he341 3.0L

[bond_bbs]

Could always use like 16AWG sheet metal, or some aluminum sheeting and make a heat shield that goes around your down pipe. Make a few like 1 inch standoffs that go around the downpipe in increments (0, 90, 180, and 270*) welded on, bend a flat spot, drill a hole, then screw the sheeting to it.

[RoadWarrior222]

Yarrr, nothing really too technical about heat shields. Do it with beer cans if you're too cheap to buy some flashing or something (Or at least to prototype it with)

[bond_bbs]

LOL. I wouldn't suggest beer cans for the final product, but for templating they would be perfect. Hell, you could cut a section of old body panel to do it if you needed.

Just wear gloves if that is your route.. sheet metal cuts suck.. bad.

[Ondonti]

Not terribly worried about heat. The only thing I worry about it something actually touching the downpipe. Our oem exhaust runs right there already. When our fan turns on it actually blows air right past that area, and driving forward does the same thing. If you had unwrapped wires there then I would be more worried.

[Sundance 6g72]

is your oil feed (flange that bolts to the top of the turbo) have an amazingly small outlet?

i got my oil feed kit today and its insanely small.. the hose is a good diameter but the actual part tha bolts to the turbo has a puny tiny tiny outlet.

[Ondonti]

is your oil feed (flange that bolts to the top of the turbo) have an amazingly small outlet?

i got my oil feed kit today and its insanely small.. the hose is a good diameter but the actual part tha bolts to the turbo has a puny tiny tiny outlet.

Small is a good thing. You don't want to force a lot of oil through the center section.

My new fancy Earls swivel 90 is actually leaking ( I think) so that is not making me happy. I ignoring that but its causing oil to run all the way down my center section and all the way down my return line.
BTW, I got my Walbro yesterday and already took pictures of it after i modified it. I did not post them yet but will try to tonight unless I get wrapped up installing the fuel pump.
This time instead of knocking in the check valve, I cut out a little thin piece of steel sheet to a shape that would cover the hole with some extra margin, then put JB weld in the hole, then put the metal over and and clipped the white adapter back onto the pump to hold the steel against the expoxy. Slightly thinner piece of steel would have worked better (i think it was 18 or 20 gauge) because I really had to force that side of the adapter to clip in. Good nuff for me. I am going to touch the 2 wires to a battery to make sure the pump is still spinning and happy then install it.

I also got a present for my Duster

[Sundance 6g72]

whats the present ? ? ?

cant wait for the pics either

and by small i mean its like a pin hole size. i would have trouble getting a tooth pic to go into it. I hope thats how its supposed to be

[Ondonti]

It might have a built in restrictor. I believe I put a restrictor on my PT67 setup but not on my Holset. The holset is the one thats leaking too :P
Ball bearing turbos require the restrictor and for journal bearing turbos you can use a restrictor but the size callout would be a little larger.

[Ondonti]

Here is mine. A little big higher quality/focus

[Ondonti]

Installed the pump and clamped the line and it ipegs around 85psi after shaking violently and the line makes a nice crisp popping sound when I let go of it. The OEM pump made 80psi exactly. I am not exactly sure on the number from the Walbro. I was more interested in it if would hit 100 on the gauge and it did not.
Not exactly sure whats up with the gauge now. Obviously the other walbro was having problems when it could only maintain 60psi on the gauge. Even an unmodified walbro should push over 100psi but maybe at the upper limits the gauge is crap. Glad I ordered it.
If the gauge is off, then a clamp test really proves nothing because clamping the return line means the pump doesn't have to actually move fuel. Now, can your pump maintain 85psi when the injectors are at 90% IDC, that is the question. This pump should be able to go well over 100, but the fuel flow gains up there are basically zero.

The OEM pump is an itty bitty Walbro. Anyone know how much it is rated for? If its a 150lph pump then I can see why it doesn't like RRR setups because it probably also has a significantly lower relief pressure AND there is a huge flow difference.
I am not going to drive it to work tomorrow, maybe drive it on Friday.

[Sundance 6g72]

thanks for the pics!!! Looks just like mine. Before i install it, do i need a bigger return line? i dont have a fuel pressure gauge either

[Sundance 6g72]

It might have a built in restrictor. I believe I put a restrictor on my PT67 setup but not on my Holset. The holset is the one thats leaking too :P
Ball bearing turbos require the restrictor and for journal bearing turbos you can use a restrictor but the size callout would be a little larger.

- Wet Floating Bearings is what i have.

remember mines an ebay guy CXracing style. Im just weary that this pin hole thats supposed to piss oil into my turbo isnt enough

[Sundance 6g72]

[Vigo]

That orifice does look too small imo.

There is almost noone that needs an upgraded return line. The return line only has to flow what you arent using, so the only reason you'd need one is if you had dual pumps or some sort of super monster pump (not a walbro 255) that flowed more than the regulator and return line could flow without causing a pressure rise in the fuel rail.

Ive seen stock, unmodified k-car fuel pumps hit 100psi with a clamped return line. I am suspicious about the gauge in this case.

[Ondonti]

You might drill it out slightly smaller. I would google up oil feed line restrictors and figure out what people suggest for a journal bearing setup. I don't remember the size. Make sure you are not looking at ball bearing measurements. You don't need one but it will be better for your turbo in the long run if you have a more measured amount of oil running through it.

[RoadWarrior222]

You might drill it out slightly smaller.

That would be clever...

... or does that take one of those special tungsten-unobtanium shrinking bits?

[Ondonti]

Opposite day!

[Reaper1]

That orifice does look too small imo.

There is almost noone that needs an upgraded return line. The return line only has to flow what you arent using, so the only reason you'd need one is if you had dual pumps or some sort of super monster pump (not a walbro 255) that flowed more than the regulator and return line could flow without causing a pressure rise in the fuel rail.

Ive seen stock, unmodified k-car fuel pumps hit 100psi with a clamped return line. I am suspicious about the gauge in this case.

I needed an upgraded return line on my Z. With the Walboro on the car I could not get the fuel pressure low enough to obtain a good AF. Of course this was with a FWD S5 cal. I STILL have the FP down to about 35#'s to get good numbers now. My Shel-Game cal is set-up for 45psi static.

[Vigo]

Yeh, if you have the ability to tune the cal i would just rescale your injectors for higher pressures until you couldnt get idle pulsewidth low enough rather than mess with upgrading the lines, but then again i just hate messing with anything that's 10 ft long and fragile. hehe.

[Sundance 6g72]

brent, did you have to run a bigger return?

drill out smaller?