The Holset he341 3.0L

[Ondonti]

Okay, keep this place on topic. I am in perpetual wait for parts and not getting to enjoy my car.

Later in the night, I have stumbled on this.
http://synapseengineering.com/pdf/wg-manual.pdf

I didn't know synapse had a 38mm tial flange style. Theirs is 40mm. $250ish. Not sure I need it but I will keep it in mind.

[Ondonti]

Terrible luck. The "fixed" walbro had not given up. The feed line right after the filter got pinched against the tank. The funny this is that I already had the stock pump in and thought it was also broken. Well, now that the line is not pinched, this pump goes all the way to 80psi and then stays there with its pressure relief obviously open. I never knew it was absolutely not capable of even 1psi over 80 :P Reason to be careful with RRR! I guess the gauge was working!
If you remember, the walbro I broke was only able to spike to 70 then stop at about 60. That pump also had a massive sound change as it went from 30 to 60psi while slowly changing pressure.
It seems like the Walbro was pushing more fuel at low pressure and overrunning the return line, but couldn't move fuel at high rpms. At this point I think my "data" is so bad that its pointless trying to hypothesize.
New Walbro is on the way, and now I know that the fuel pressure gauge is working. Fuel pressure is set to about 29.5psi base.
I hope my wideband comes soon.


BTW, I just found out that the super annoying insanely loud vibration/leak sound from my engine bay was one of the 2 exhaust evac fittings (only using one and splitting it to both valve covers. I thought that it would stay closed but since idle does not have enough exhaust velocity in a 3" tube to create consistent suction, it is constantly opening and closing. I stuck my hand over it and all of a sudden things were quiet. I think a lot of the noise must have been the metal check valve moving back and forth.

I also took some screen, cut it into the shape of the 4" v band flange and put muffler cement on it. Seems to have been a good thing so far. I kept thinking the insane loud noise at idle was the V band but thankfully its not.

[Ondonti]

Car is much quieter. Happy about that. Drove around for 4 hours trying to burn off the old 87 octane gas that I put in when messing around with the fuel pumps.
Car is also quieter on the throttle because the wastegate doesn't open right away. After burning off all that fuel and putting 5 gallons of 92 in from a gas can, I romped on it and it sat around 5-6psi boost to redline according to the OEM boost gauge. I don't know how much I trust this gauge BUT I have a grainger on the wastegate line and I just tried to set it to "almost nothing" and maybe its adding a few psi. So with the .25 bar wastegate spring and these cams its no fun at 2000 rpms but at 2500 it will move and 3k instant boost. Not sure what rpm it hits 6psi. That probably depends how low I start and what gear I am in. To show how responsible I am, 4 hours of driving, no wheelspin.

I reconnected the speedo wire while out driving but then the anoying AIS issues came back the moment I did that. The Speedo ended up crapping out later on like it always used to when I have the lights on. I guess I have to do some deeper digging. No idea what the air fuel ratio is. Want that wideband back!

[RoadWarrior222]

Oh I had a bunch of codes indicating speed, sensor, AIS and it wanted to stall coming to a stop, and found a cracked wire in the harness behind the battery.... (After I'd switched out speed sensor, cleaned AIS passage, ohmed out everything I could find...)

[Ondonti]

Not excited to tear apart more harness. Already destroyed the ECU wiring back towards the firewall. Found no problems.

I don't understand why my speedo is not working if the ecu does not get a signal. Is there a conditioning circuit or something in the ECU for 3 wire setups?
Will a 2 wire setup work without the ecu and will my speedo understand it?

[Ondonti]

Innovate just send me an email saying I have a package coming. I thought I was going to be notified when they stared working on it. Hopefully its either a new unit or they found something obviously wrong inside.

[Sundance 6g72]

your the only crazy person i know of that will take a car that didnt come factory with a turbo, turbocharge it and tune with a RRR and then not run a wideband and still not blow up.

[Ondonti]

Well with the OEM pump I knew the tune was decent if I set base pressure to near 30psi. I had turned up the rate of gain a little bit when I put in the broken walbro and it ran like crap in boost and when cold at low rpms. I am a little less paranoid thanks to my big ring gaps. You know the moment that wideband goes back in I need to restrain myself from turning her up too far. The wideband died before the walbro went in so I was hoping I was just gonna be super rich, but I think it was actually lean

I have a good grasp on what will hurt the motor and what won't so that is an advantage. 3.0 wants to work hard as long as it works smart.
I need to do the same thing as you, make 100% sure that the timing is 12 degrees. The distributor was 12 degrees previously but the heads have changed shortblocks. I can't imagine there is much possibility for the timing changing unless the crankshaft keyways are slightly different (and I don't think they would be even a tenth of a degree different). Both motors were stock unmilled shortblocks. Only real difference would be the timing belt that I left on the Duster (nicer gatorback).

[Sundance 6g72]

speaking of being smart.. i got my timing sorted out on my car. i posted about it in my thread. max i ran was 50 degrees from 5000-6000rpms. not sure if i should go further or not (87 octane)

[Spiritman]

so what did your trigger angle end up at ? still trying to figure out a few things with mine. however i have driven it on the ms3

---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 PM ----------

hope u get your wideband back soon. good luck

[Sundance 6g72]

its at 74.4 i believe. (75 will do)

it was really easy how i did it. just set a fixed timing of 10*. then take a sharpy and mark 10* on the degree scale next to the crank pully. then put whiteout on the 3 grooves in the crank pully its self. Then use the timing light and change the trigger angle until the crank marks line up with the sharpy. i never understood it until i did it. also, taking off the surpentene (spelling) belt give you a steady reading.. not sure why. i had to call ed and thats what he told me to do and it worked great.

back on topic!

[Ondonti]

I think the accessories cause the engine to speed up and slow down slightly. I have noticed it moves around a lot. I guess on MS you don't have to worry about unplugging the coolant temp sensor :P

[Vigo]

The spring tensioner is probably what causes it. I bet the a/c pulley has no effect at all on it.

[Ondonti]

Innovate sent me a brand new wideband instead of fixing it. Didn't send a new o2 sensor :P
Been waiting for a minute now.

[Reaper1]

Well, I think at that rate the wait was worth it!

[RoadWarrior222]

Well the diz will stay in time with the cam but the cam might be plus or minus a few degrees on a different block, so it would put the diz off when timed at the crank...

[Ondonti]

Well I found that even getting a massive line bore on my front head still didn't change the timing far enough from stock to be mentionable. I was expecting a lot more.

[Irocelectric93]

so what did your trigger angle end up at ? still trying to figure out a few things with mine. however i have driven it on the ms3

---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 PM ----------

hope u get your wideband back soon. good luck

Right now me and you are the only guys running MS3 on v6 cars I've found that my car starts and runs well with a trigger angle of 60. Def still need to fine tune and match timing better but I've been side tracked. Brent...Good to hear that they hooked you up with a new WB. Did you not need a new sensor or what? I finally put my LC-1 in the Iroc and other than one goof on my part during install it went in super smooth and works perfect. Hopefully when i put my MTX in my SRT-4 i wont have any issues.

[Ondonti]

Got the new replacement Innovate MTX-L reinstalled today. They just sent back my original sensor. Calibrated it but have not stared the car yet.

I removed the transmission mount that I had loose filled with some things and it all pretty much had fallen out, and the mount was completely broken on one side. Thats what happens when you make everything else solid. Filled it on all sides. Put a vee shape piece of steel into the triangle space that Polymounts fills with Poly. Then I shimmed it with thin pieces of steel to get it as tight as I wanted. Put two small blocks of iron at the bottom of the mount to prevent the mount from moving forward or back. Shimmed that. Tacked all that stuff into place. Then went out looking for some more 1/4" threaded iron pipe and Lowes no longer carries it. Said screw it and bought two small threaded brass 1/4" pipes and pushed those into my two remaining gaps. I just did an interference weld on them that prevents them from coming out either side since I can't really weld brass. I didn't want to put a huge piece of solid steel/iron there as I already added enough weight.

The fun thing was that I removed the crap Harbor Freight welder's welding clamp and put on a nice brass one that I am barely strong enough to open. Also used some 12 gauge extension cord that I bought for welding. Seems to have helped with both wire feed and welding. I added another 18" of ground wire so I can actually clamp where ever I want. Previously my ground clamp was exactly the same length as my lead. Stupid design.

Still unhappy about my speedo. I looked and found the one other place that the Distance sensor sends info, to the Transmission controller. I have all those wires cut off.
Vigo sent me some information about 1993+ speedo's but it doesn't really make sense. The info he found was someone claiming the TCM multiplies the signal by a pinion factor and conditions the signal. I don't understand how this can work when the signal branches off in 3 directions and the signal is generated by the Distance sensor. If there was an input and output from the ECU then it would make more sense to me.

I really want the ecu to stop using my distance sensor info but I don't want to lose cold weather/start AIS functions.

[Ondonti]

I also installed an MBTX30U Motobatt. About half the size of the 10+ year old small battery that was installed. I don't have an NHRA legal installation right now :P
Not sure how I want to tackle that part. Its just ziptied into the front drivers corner of the battery tray. I just checked out the rules and the two 3/8" bolts into the frame/frame structure only applies to relocated batteries, which this is not
So just need to attach it in a way that does not throw up red flags (zip ties ) I remember kids at the drag strip and their bungie cords.