87 Plymouth Horizon

[wallace]

Finally got the car out for a spin around the neighborhood. It's pig rich everywhere. I got a decent datalog and adjusted the VE table to lean it out. I'll need to keep repeating that in the 'hood until it's halfway driveable. Goal is to get it good enough to go and get state inspection done. It's tagged and insured. The big MC is way too much the pedal is rock hard. Need to swap the 1 1/8" out for something smaller I think stewdaddy gave me a 1" I'm going to try that one next the stock 7/8" was way too small and pedal travel was too much for me. Steering is surprisingly light I was expecting much more effort. maybe its the lightweight wheels and 40mm offset? Anyways getting there.

[stewdaddy23]

pretty sure if you got a MC from me it was a #4 (24mm). Need to switch to all disk!

[wallace]

This car is for sale. I am getting out of Turbo Dodge's. I will part it out or sell it whole. I will make someone a good deal if they want it complete. It needs a 36-1 trigger wheel adapted to it to run properly. I have the wheel and a spare pulley to be modified. I'll post an add in the for sale section.

[AzShadow]

damn sorry to hear your getting out of it. if your parting the car i'm interested in some parts. valve cover with the ls2 brackets welded to it and maybe your ram/air cold air intake pieces

[2.216VTurbo]

Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there

[wallace]

No problem, if I don't get any interest in the whole car I will let you know. Thanks.

[knownenemy]

Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there

AMEN!!!
Don't walk away man.
I don't even know you, but I DO know what you're feeling!
I walked away from my first GLHS, and I regretted it for YEARS!
Sold it for less than HALF of what I had into it.
Should've put it to the side for a while...as you've been suggested to do.
I've finally got my hands on another one, and I'll take it to my grave!!!

Best wishes to you my friend.

[wallace]

Wallace youve been here before,Ive been there before, burnt out, other priorities,financial stress, life getting in the way anything and everything at once. I'd urge you just to push it into the corner of the shop and let it sit till your situation changes or you *want* to work on it again. We've all been there,just last year during my divorce I was there

I took your advice and left it in the shop. I'd throw a beer can at it every now and then to make myself feel better. I finally got off my arse and ordered up a trigger wheel and made up a mandrel to turn the crank pulley down to fit it up. I bought a hall effect sensor. Here's what I've got so far. I need to mount up the pulley and then fabricate the mount for the sensor. If anyone has done the sensor mount I'd love to see how and where you put it. It looks to me like a good spot is on the two mounting bolts for the seal adapter on the right side of the engine. Pics of my mandrel which is just the crank timing belt pulley with a piece of round stock I turned down to press fit into it. I bolted the pulley up backwards and turned it down so I can put the trigger wheel on with a little force. Once I get my sensor mounted I'll put the pulley and trigger wheel back in the lathe and align it with a dial indicator and weld it in place. My only concern is the trigger wheel is only .125" thick I'm wondering if that's enough width for the sensor to pick it up.

[AzShadow]

which hall effect sensor did you go with? if its the one off diy's site their trigger wheel they sell says its 1/8" thick (although for some reason i thought it was thicker??) so you should be OK there.

Here is the mount i made (trigger wheel not shown obviously)



The mount to the engine is slotted so i can adjust the height up and down from the wheel and the sensor can rotate about its single mounting bolt so i can center it on the wheel. seems like it will work. My trigger wheel adapter is still in process and im still wiring the car so i havent been able to test it. I will post up pics once its all mounted.

[wallace]

I bought the threaded sensor from them but it should work similar to the one you have. Are you using a second trigger for sequential?

[AzShadow]

yeah the threaded is basically the same thing. For now i am not going to add a second wheel. I got soooo much work to do on the car before something like that is a concern lol

maybe one day when im bored and everything else is completed....(like that is ever gonna happen)

[wallace]

ok the car runs now using the hall effect sensor and trigger wheel. Was getting sync dropouts but it was because the gap was too far out. I adjusted it up and car fired right up. Need to verify the base timing and do some other odds and ends and then hopefully I can take it for a test drive.

[2.216VTurbo]

Awesome 2.5 years of hard work and all of life's little challenges along the way...

[AzShadow]

this is good news man!

i btw am in the crank/no start phase of my life....i can kinda get a few coughs out of it and an exhaust backfire but thats it.

do you mind sending me your msq file?

much appreciated. (pm sent too btw)

[wallace]

small update. I had a timing problem with the car..the timing would retard with increasing rpm. I tried just about everything and in the end I had to set the ignition output opposite of what the instructions said. Once I got that corrected I was able to drive the car today and work on the tune. I have it idling fairly well and boosted it a couple of times and it pulls very hard. The manualbrakes absolutely suck. If anyone has an actual manual brake pedal from an l-body I would like to know if the pin location that actuates the mc is different from the power steering pedal. I'm going to go back to a stock size mc and see if that will give me a better feel right now the pedal has a good feel to it but it does not stop very well.

[wallace]

I gave in and put the power booster back on the car and it now has good brakes. It is very rich in boost and breaks up badly so I've been leaning it out and trying to be careful so making small adjustments. It has a really bad lean spot at throttle tip in I believe due to the large plenum. Not sure what I'm going to do about the ps cv shaft. I looked at the old shaft and the new one and they are the same length so the shaft that's in there now is a lbody shaft. If anyone has any ideas why I am having this issue with the cv axle please chime in as I'm at a loss. At this point I'm considering having one of the axles shortened by a driveshaft shop. Could the frame be bent causing this issue? If so, is there a quick way to check for that.