Oil additives

[RoadWarrior222]

Well then it could have been your crank thrashing in it.

[turbovanman²]

Yeah yeah, I heard you already



About the same as yours, 5-7 psi at hot idle. I got boo-koo oil pressure when cold too, like 3/4's of the gauge. I think I may be missing the oil restrictor in the block. I just got 2 restrictors from my local dealer ( all he got get from within several hundred miles, they are NS1), will probably pull the head soon and see if it's there. If it isn't, I'm swapping the head out, as I have been through and through the bottom end.

Hehehehehe.

I know spec is 4 psi at idle but 5-7 psi it yuck, especially with an auto,

WHats wrong with 5-7 idle..??

See above. Mine is 25 at idle.

So long as you have approximately 10PSI per 1000RPM, you're fine... Low oil pressure might be due to side-clearances on the rods, assuming bearing clearances on both rods and mains are within spec... This also assumes the proper restrictor to the head is in place... LOTS of ASSumptions there! lol

Mike

I just read an article that puts down the myth of large side clearances causes oil pressure issues. Basically, your bearing clearance sets the leakage and the side clearance has nothing do with it.

[zin]

I just read an article that puts down the myth of large side clearances causes oil pressure issues. Basically, your bearing clearance sets the leakage and the side clearance has nothing do with it.

While I can see how the side clearance might not affect the oil pressure, the physics of the situation say that it can.

If the clearance area(rod bearing to shaft) is less than the side clearance (edge of the bearing to the side of the shaft/fillet), the rod/shaft clearance will set the leakage rate, assuming that the side clearance area is more than that of the rod/shaft.

However, if the side clearance area is less than the bearing/shaft's, then the side clearance will act as the metering device, or lack thereof.

So, if you have a loose bearing to journal clearance and a large side clearance, low oil pressure/high windage will occur.

I doubt many bother to check side clearance, due in no small part to the fact that there isn't much a shade-tree engine builder can do to fix it on our engines... Unlike a SBC or other V-8, we can't swap out pairs of rods to make up or loose clearance. The best we can do is measure the clearance and the rods and mix-and match to best fit the crank. Beyond that it's crank welding, or other costly and involved tricks, for something that likely won't have much effect other than a little HP and oil consumption...

Mike

[turbovanman²]

While I can see how the side clearance might not affect the oil pressure, the physics of the situation say that it can.

If the clearance area(rod bearing to shaft) is less than the side clearance (edge of the bearing to the side of the shaft/fillet), the rod/shaft clearance will set the leakage rate, assuming that the side clearance area is more than that of the rod/shaft.

However, if the side clearance area is less than the bearing/shaft's, then the side clearance will act as the metering device, or lack thereof.

So, if you have a loose bearing to journal clearance and a large side clearance, low oil pressure/high windage will occur.

I doubt many bother to check side clearance, due in no small part to the fact that there isn't much a shade-tree engine builder can do to fix it on our engines... Unlike a SBC or other V-8, we can't swap out pairs of rods to make up or loose clearance. The best we can do is measure the clearance and the rods and mix-and match to best fit the crank. Beyond that it's crank welding, or other costly and involved tricks, for something that likely won't have much effect other than a little HP and oil consumption...

Mike

Its been proven its a myth, math wise also

[zin]

Its been proven its a myth, math wise also

I'd like to see the proof/article, my experience seems to be in conflict... But, I'll always accept new info, then judge for myself, might learn something new!

Mike

[turbovanman²]

I'd like to see the proof/article, my experience seems to be in conflict... But, I'll always accept new info, then judge for myself, might learn something new!

Mike

I'll see if I can find it.

What have you found?

[zin]

I'll see if I can find it.

What have you found?

That if I pair the rods to run tight, I generally have higher oil pressure than if I run them loose, but the actual bearing clearance sets the stage, as such they have a much larger effect on windage, but you can cut down on windage if you run the side clearance tighter, basically it's like putting a cork in a bottle with a small hole in it to calibrate/control the amount of oil that cant get out at the end of the line.

Most people will never even check it, which if you aren't going to do anything about it anyway, if fine... Unless you find yourself having a problem with oil pressure, and you'd confirmed that everything else is OK... Heck, in our cars it could be an oil thirsty turbo!

Still wouldn't mind reading the article though, sometimes they are speaking in relation to something else, which can turn on light bulbs that wouldn't ordinarily get switched on...

Mike

[Force Fed Mopar]

Also, the Kendall is holding oil pressure better than any of the other oils I've used. With other 20w50's, the oil gauge would still drop right off at hot idle. It does not do that w/ the Kendall.

[83rampage]

VR-1 Racing 20W-50 was what I was using in the 1st 500 miles while breaking my motor. Switched to 20W-50 Syn Valvoline and added Lucas ZDDP additive to increase the zinc content. The engine oils seemed dirtier and dirtier. Did the same oil change and took it to the track day this past weekend. Everything good but the oil was VERY dirty and kind of foamy and it hardly had viscosity. I also ended up with a lifter tap. I took some in a sample tube and used a powerful magnifying glass. The oil was full of tiny little bubbles! Did 3 oil changes back to back to clean the engine and I now have clean oil and the tap disappeared. Whatever you do, DO NOT PUT THAT PRODUCT IN YOUR ENGINE, IT ALMOST COST ME MINE!!




I use this now.



Reinaldo Moloon

The aeration you were seeing was because of the Lucas additive. On the "bobistheoilguy" website they had a either pictures or a video of the Lucas $hit in action. No sure if it is there anymore, but Lucas foams like crazy.

Excellent advise not to use it or any other snake oil additive (power-up, etc.)

On another note, I was watching PowerBlock the other day and Comp Cams has come out with there own version of oil with high ZDDP for flat tappet cams. Probably pricey, but something to look at.

[MR. X]

Forget Rotella T IMHO. Use Brad Penn Racing oil. It has the most ZDDP in it of all the oil I believe.

[RoadWarrior222]

The aeration you were seeing was because of the Lucas additive. On the "bobistheoilguy" website they had a either pictures or a video of the Lucas $hit in action. No sure if it is there anymore, but Lucas foams like crazy.

Come to think of it, it really ropes over the gears on their little demo display, looks good for lube at the 100 rpm you can spin that handle, but go to a thousand or two and I bet it would be flinging gobs of it off everywhere... I guess that would be how it aerates.

[DodgeZdad]

If you have to use 20w-50 in a engine NOT set up with loose clearances for racing then you have a problem with that engine and bearings.

[turbovanman²]

Forget Rotella T IMHO. Use Brad Penn Racing oil. It has the most ZDDP in it of all the oil I believe.

Yep, Rotella has been reformulated,

[onerippinturbo2]

the comp cams additive is pretty reasonable and fairly easy to get.

[johnl]

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/p...age%20Cars.pdf


That link is just plain excellent on this topic.

Go to the Valvoline web site and you will learn that only the "off road" Valvoline VR-1 has the amount of ZDDP that is the same as the old API "SF" standard. As I recall from there, the "on road" versions of VR-1 are formulated to the current "SM" standard.