I had a very much similar problem with my shadow when I first got it, threw all sort of parts at it trying to figure it out. Fought it for months. Once I got confident enough in my mechanic skills to check the cam timing, it was off a couple teeth. Fixed that and it ran great ever since. Even if you have checked it, check it again, its easy to do.
a couple teeth? How the heck did the thing run?? I never thought to check that in my situation. I did put a new turbo on when I brought it out this year. I do notice that I have in the neighborhood of 25in vac at idle, in comparison to the 20in of vac I had before the swap, but it still runs like a top, so I just assumed that the timing was dead on...interesting.
I'm waiting to see if the new cal changed anything. I know I have had issues with a cold engine and determined that there is a transfer point in the cal that needs to be adjusted so it comes out of cold enrichment sooner because of the 180 t-stat.
How odd I am having the same problem, running a 3 bar and 40+s for a while it was going lean and then cutting out, did a mod to my walbro to make it hold pressure and now it doesnt go lean but will still cutout, First I though maybe I burned the cal and didnt turn up the overboost past stock, So now its g valved to 12psi and it still does this exact same thing, doesnt cutout in 1st or 2nd but in 3rd after I pull for a while, go from maybe 2k and up afrs are great then bam cutout, doesnt go lean before it cutsout either. I'll try adjusting my plug gap first and update after. I had no idea so many people had this problem.
1989 Daytona AGS CS 2.5TII A555, S60 1986 600es Convertible turbo 1969/8 Barracuda 318, 904 1966 Dart Station Wagon 1996 Dakota 5.2 4wd 1979 Honda CM400T Hard tailed Chopper
Is it even possible to run 25in of vacuum? I thought 20 was about tops.
Our cars actually run halfway decent if the timing is off a couple teeth. Its when you get through the revs it actually acts up.
Mine ran fine until about 13-14psi and 4-4.5k. Cant remember what the vacuum was, but I have never had a TM that pulled 25 at idle. Take a look and let us know what you find. In my case, I think a couple violent overboost's is what caused it to jump.
Absolutely. Thats what does it a lot of times.Originally Posted by ShadowFromHell
I thought it was really odd myself! So odd actually, that I bought a new boost gauge just to be sure the crappy one I had wasn't reading incorrect. (At least I have a nice boost gauge now) I think I actually have a picture of the car running today with the new boost gauge and gauge cluster installed. If I find it I'll upload it in a few minutes. Either way, after work tomorrow I'll yank the timing belt and re-install it from scratch just for chits n giggles. I don't really think I should have that much idle vaccuum after just a turbo swap. I'll also change the CTS and see what that does.
---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------
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Here's a pic, it looks in the photo like it's about 22-23 in. I think it's just the angle of the camera, but either way, it's a bit higher than the 18-20 in. I had before the swap.
George burned me another cal. I haven't really driven it too much since I'm still chasing my squeeky belt problem....I did lay into it a couple times..once in 2nd and once in 4th. The second gear pull blew off the tires and revved to around 5K...I didn't see where the boost was. The 4 gear pull slipped the clutch...boost was around 15 pounds and no sign of a cutout. I'll try it some more tomorrow...just trying to get the cal past the learning point since I had my batt disconnected. I have a hard time believing my timing is off because the car pulls HARD from any RPM....usually when the timing is off a tooth, my car will run like crap and sound way different and then either have a TON of low end and no top end or vise versa. Also...the trump card here is the overboost code that popped up. Reset battery, no codes....go do a pull and hit cutout, come back and I have an overboost code.
Well I was having a cutout issue also, just like an overboost cutout, went and adjusted my spark plug gap down on some old NGK's I had in it, the gap was 32ish and adjusted them down to 25/26, it fixed it so to celebrate I put some new champions in and no cutout thing pulls good, I had no idea this would have been the issue w/o reading this thread, Could this maybe be an issue with a weak coil and it not providing enough power to spark the bigger gap?
Thanks guys!
-Jack
1989 Daytona AGS CS 2.5TII A555, S60 1986 600es Convertible turbo 1969/8 Barracuda 318, 904 1966 Dart Station Wagon 1996 Dakota 5.2 4wd 1979 Honda CM400T Hard tailed Chopper
I once had a bad socketed SMEC that caused me all kind of headache. First, it was idle high at 3000rpm, only at below 60 degree weather. Than, it would do random cut-out, like a bad hep sensor. Tried a lot of things, but I finally put a STOCK 2.5 SMEC (non socketed) with a 2 bar map running FFV, and the car ran perfect. Junked that socketed SMEC in a hurry, and bought one from Butch, everything was fine from then on.
If you have a stock SMEC and a 2 bar map around, I'd suggest try them out.
Are you guys that are having this issue running anti-lag? If so, maybe reduce the amount of retard in the anti-lag table. It is possible to have too much retard...
I personally have a cal from you, with the anti lag feature. If there's too much retard, this could explain why I have to advance the cam 8 degrees to boost past 4psi I think.
Alright adjusted my plugs and put champions in like I posted just a while back but got cutout in 2nd gear for the first time, Never had that happen, what causes spark blowout? not enough spark 'power' perhaps a weak coil??? or ignition??
1989 Daytona AGS CS 2.5TII A555, S60 1986 600es Convertible turbo 1969/8 Barracuda 318, 904 1966 Dart Station Wagon 1996 Dakota 5.2 4wd 1979 Honda CM400T Hard tailed Chopper
and too much gap.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
so what "should" the gap be. If people are experiencing spark blow out at stock boost levels with plugs gapped to .035, that leads me to believe that closing the gap is just putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound.
the longer the distant a spark has to jump the easier it is to blow it out in a boosted application. Shortening the gap isn't a bandaid on a gunshot wound, it is a pretty common. I usually set the gap on my cars to .032, and if I am having a spark blowout issue, I will gap them lower, even going as far as .025 with no ill effects.
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The thing with anti lag is it will retard timing till it reaches the boost goal. So say boost goal is set to 20 on anti lag amd your running 15. It's gonna run like shyt. I set my anti lag boost goal to around 15 and let the motor do it's magic from there on.
Anti-lag boost goal? The anti-lag table is retard vs. delta to boost goal. So, if you're boost goal is set to 20psi, and you only have 15psi, the delta is 5psi. This is the value used in the anti-lag lookup. Whatever ignition retard is called for at 5psi, will be subtracted from the total timing.
The only time it should make it run poorly, is if you are trying to run a MBC and antilag. Since the computer will not know what your MBC is set to, the amount of retard will not really be controlled. Unless you set the boost target tables to the same value you set the MBC to.
So should I set it back to 20 on the boost goal? Or should I just turn it off because I'm running a mbc. I don't get what the "delta" really means. I'm assuming the difference between two psi settings.
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