Flywheel bolts

[iTurbo]

OK, I'm in need of flywheel bolts. I would rather not reuse what I have lying around and I probably don't have nearly enough for what I need anyway. Unfortunately the Mopar Performance flywheel/clutch bolt package is no longer available, and stock flywheel bolts from the dealer are on eternal backorder.

So, I considered getting the ARP flywheel bolts from FWDP. I've used these before in my red Spirit R/T and they worked great. I was using a stock flywheel/clutch in that car though. For the four motors I'm building I'm using TU flywheel/clutch setups and Chris has told me that there is an interference issue with the bolt heads hitting the disc's hub springs. However, I'm not certain if this is only an issue with aluminum flywheels or stock or lightweight cast iron? FWIW, I'll be using one stocker, two LW cast iron, and one aluminum.

I've searched in other threads and somebody mentioned using flywheel bolts from the Neon SRT-4. Can anybody confirm that these will work before I go ahead and order them? Does anybody else have any other ideas? I would rather not go to the hardware store and get whatever they have so scratch that idea.

[iTurbo]

I just broke out the digital caliper to measure the flywheel hub thickness at the bolt flange.

Stock TIII: .354"
TU TIII Aluminum: .360"
TU TIII LW cast: .288"

Screw it I'll just get ARP bolt for them all? I really don't see why not. FWIW, I think this TU aluminum TIII flywheel is different than the Fidanza unit. Maybe the ARP bolt/hub spring interference issue is only a problem with the Fidanza. Somebody should measure the Fidanza hub thickness and report back so we can end this mystery once and for all.

[glhs0426]

Don't use the stock SRT4 flywheel bolts. They will be way too short. The SRT4 setup uses an automatic transmission flexplate and a modular clutch. Maybe you could use a 1995 Neon with a conventional flywheel bolt. The 1995 Neon used both style clutches depending on build date.

[DodgeZ]

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f213...-bolts-548505/


PICTURE FOR NEON BOLTS

[iTurbo]

Thanks guys; glad I asked! Here is the thread that somebody mentioned using SRT4 bolts:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...flywheel-bolts

After seeing the pic Kevin posted I'm not sure how SRT4 bolts would work. The '95 Neon conventional bolt looks promising though. Sure looks just like the 2.2/2.5 style flywheel bolt I have here.

According to wholesalemopar.com, #6503464 is $1.94 each (15.52/set) versus $38/set for the ARP bolts from FWDP.

[glhs0426]

6503464 looked like an old number, so, I looked it up on the Chrysler system. It has been around since 1986. It IS the 2.2/2.5 bolt.

[iTurbo]

Awesome thanks for checking. I guess the next inevitable question is availability? Wholesalemopar.com says it's available but I've found that they are not 100% reliable as far as actual availability. I just ordered some stuff from them on Saturday but might call them on Monday and add a few to my order.

[tryingbe]

I just broke out the digital caliper to measure the flywheel hub thickness at the bolt flange.

Stock TIII: .354"
TU TIII Aluminum: .360"
TU TIII LW cast: .288"

Screw it I'll just get ARP bolt for them all? I really don't see why not. FWIW, I think this TU aluminum TIII flywheel is different than the Fidanza unit. Maybe the ARP bolt/hub spring interference issue is only a problem with the Fidanza. Somebody should measure the Fidanza hub thickness and report back so we can end this mystery once and for all.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ky-worthy.html

[glhs0426]

The bolts are in stock at the National Depot. Expect, at most, five business days for the bolts to get to wholesalemopar.com and then however long it takes them to ship the bolts to you.

[135sohc]

Last time I tried to order them they were on backorder with no known delivery date... Maybe things have improved with chrysler since then though.

[iTurbo]

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ky-worthy.html

Thanks! The picture of the Fidanza FW in that thread looks a LOT different than my aluminum TU flywheel. The hub thickness of my aluminum FW is only a hair thicker than the stock FW....so I'm thinking the ARP bolts will be OK but I still need to check if the TU 4 and 6 puck discs I have put the hub springs closer to the FW than the stock disc.

[iTurbo]

I added one 6503464 and one 6503465 bolt to my existing order from wholesalemopar today. They were only $1.xx each so I will see for sure what the difference between the two is.

Also, I've been checking fitment with the ARP flywheel bolts using the TU flywheels and clutches I have. So far I cannot find any clearance issues at all! The ARP bolt would have to come out nearly 2mm before hitting the hub springs. I think this problem is most likely an issue with the Fidanza flywheel only. I don't have one of those so if somebody has one lying around that would be great to see how thick the hub is at the bolt flange.

I DID find one issue with the ARP bolts that makes me wonder if I should use them at all. The OEM flywheel bolt have an unthreaded section of the shank near the bolt head that fits VERY snug into the flywheel bolt holes.....practically a press-fit. The ARP bolts also have this unthreaded portion below the head, but they wiggle a little bit. I wouldn't think this would be an issue since the flywheel is hub centric on the crankshaft. What do you guys think....bad or no??

[trannybuster]

I thought I had posted to your ?, but I posted over on Nemisismachines flywheel bolt question, I actually read his wrong, he wanted pressure plate to flywheel, so here was my f$%* reply to him...
DOnt flywheel bolts have a sized shoulder on them..?? Id put the correct ones in there myself.

LOL..think I got it right this time, good luck.

[iTurbo]

Yeah, I think I'm just going to use new OEM flywheel bolts. The ARP bolts 'fit' and worked OK on my red Spirit R/T. But the little bit of play from the shoulder not fitting very tightly inside the flywheel bolt holes makes me wonder about the possibility of having bolts shear off. Yeah, that could be bad.

[audiomaninc]

FWIW, I have the SRT-4 flywheel to crank bolts installed and running on my 2.5l with zero issues whatsoever.

[jeff1234]

What bolts do you guys recommend for the clutch pressure plate. Mine came from the factory and I think I should replace them to avoid clutch parts flying through my passenger compartment. I got new flywheel bolts from a dealer in Indiana but they were the last ones he had and they weren't cheap. jeff1234

[audiomaninc]

The pressure plate bolts are still available from the dealer

[jeff1234]

Thanks for the info, jeff1234