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Thread: K-member and control arm question

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Michigan
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    K-member and control arm question

    Long time lurker here.

    I am a turbo dodge/k car owner, but I have been more of a Neon guy for the last few years. Since you all steal our cylinder heads, and other parts I want to steal (more) of your parts if I can.

    Of the pictures below, providing that both arms were made of the same material, and both required the same amount of work to bolt on, which type would you prefer if you could choose one for your car? I am looking at this from an engineering standpoint. Would one be better for wheelhop, ride quality, or any other desirable quality?

    Type A:



    or Type B:


    Thanks for any input.

  2. #2
    turbo addict
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    Dec 2005
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    Spokane, Wa
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    9,046

    Re: K-member and control arm question

    Type A probably has less fore/aft movement but type b with either poly or spherical bearings is better for movement in the intended arc. I run Type B.

  3. #3
    Mitsu booster
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Michigan
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    Re: K-member and control arm question

    Thanks.

    I personally like the late style "type B" dual pivot. My opinion it has less deflection than the Neon "type A". I am not an engineer, and not a suspension designer and I am trying to research what would be best.

    The Neon arm is not that large of diameter, and the rear pivot point is not the most solid even with polyurethane bushings. The stock Neon bushing is even worse for deflection. Poly bushings are a must no matter which design. Spherical bearings would be great, but this is street driven and I can imagine what they would be like in a year or so over our dirty, pothole ridden streets.

  4. #4
    Hybrid booster BlueBaron's Avatar
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    Jan 2006
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    Milton Ontario
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    Re: K-member and control arm question

    Ean Orsel - 1987 Chrysler LeBaron coupe (The Blue Baron) 1987 Chrysler LeBaron coupe (The Silver Cloud) 2002 Chrysler Neon LX (Lex) "It has the turning circle of the moon." -Jeremy Clarkson

  5. #5
    Mitsu booster
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Michigan
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    Re: K-member and control arm question

    Thanks, great idea.

    First gen are similar but not quite the same as the 2nd gen. The subframe is quite a bit different on the first gen, it more closely resembles the turbo-dodge style. That arm adaption probably will work for the earlier style. I still would prefer all bolt in parts if I could. The great thing is if I broke a stock control arm I could go to almost any junkyard and get a replacement. Although yours is nicer, and functions great, it might be harder to convince someone to weld up my broken control arm in BFE Illinois, or wherever I take the car.

    More and more I get the "safety" excuse when trying to get parts made or repaired. I understand a shop has liability issues, but it is ridiculous at times. I do not have access to a good welder, my $89 buzzbox welder is not able to weld good enough that I would trust it for suspension. It would cost me more to have it done by a race shop than it is worth. I could buy a very nice welder by the time I paid the local shop $100 an hour (or more!) for simple things like this but I don't have 220V available right now.

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