Are there any clearance issues with redrilling the OE manifold for the T3 flange? Of course I've seen people with Holsets on the OE manifold but just making sure there's no simpler solution, such as reusing one hole or just completely redrilling the entire flange.
-Bryan
every pic ive seen every hole is redrilled. there is a holset thread somewhere that has some pics of some manifolds redrilled.
There's pics in one of Strax22's van threads about it. When we put it together there were clearance issues using a tIII-style (16v) garrett on it but i think most aftermarket or other t3-flange turbos wouldnt have those issues.
And yes every bolt is redrilled.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yes, if you redrill it, the turbo sits too high. I made a plate and lowered it, I could use the stock DP no problem when I used a stock TIII turbo. It was alot of grinding, many hours but worth it I think.
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We're drilling it now at my buddy's shop and the threads are so close to the stock holes unless you drill it offset a tad. Also we can't drill very deep or the holes will break through the back.
Any help please?
Screw in the stock studs, cut them off flush and then drill as normal and tap it. Dont worry about going too deep since there will be a stud plugging the hole.Originally Posted by Dave
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
I drilled mine right through. Then I pre-wound the studs that went through all the way tight (the way they would be installed) Marked the end that was inside the mani to conform to the contour of the porting and cut/ground it accordingly.
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
Ok sounds great. Thanks guys.
Still having some issues with this. Can someone please post a pic of just the manifold flange after it was drilled. It keeps looking like we need to drill it crooked. I know I've seen tons of guys here just drill dead parallel.
Pretty sure you screw in the old studs, hack them off flush and then drill accordingly. Probably should use red locktite on the old studs to stop them from backing out but once they are in there you have the whole surface to drill on.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
I just gave a manifold to my friend to make a T3 bolt pattern. yeah I had left the studs in there. plan is to knock em down, machine flat to the flange and redrill the holes. the t3 bolt pattern will pretty much sit center of the TD bolt pattern.
if you mean crooked by placing it on a slight angle, you dont need to do that. as shackkwrrr suggests loctite because you will end up partially drilling into 3 of the 4 screws (or at least on my manifold thats how its planned to be positioned)
What issues are you having?
he seems to be worried about drilling into the old studs, as well as breaking through into the exhaust manny....both of which i wouldnt be too concerned about
Tried to load a pic but couldn't
It's tight, but they should all end up inside of the other holes. For mounting the Holset this worked perfect, I don't know how other turbos would fit.
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
If that is the case, the picture I posted would have been sufficient enough to say there isn't a problem.
But then, what do I know. I only have one T3 flange turbo on my TII exhaust manifold.
later Dick Westerhof
That was the concern. Thanks so much for the pic!
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