Big Brakes???

[Johnny]

w/ Wilwood 12.25" brake kit

Interested in this. Could this be done without going to neon parts?
Like on a 88 or 89 Daytona?

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Then what size wheels did you need to size up to to fit over these?

[BIGBRUDDA]

So how does it work if you don't change the proportioning block? What about the direct connection "Neon brake bias adjusting valves" anybody tried those?

[turbovanman²]

I know Will Martin put some Wilwoods on his Daytona, bolt on setup. I'll get a hold of him.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Interested in this. Could this be done without going to neon parts?
Like on a 88 or 89 Daytona?

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Then what size wheels did you need to size up to to fit over these?

Pretty certain you have to have SRT/PT spindles to use it, but you might be able to use it on the old spindles if you have a custom bracket cut. Actually you probably have the equipment to do it yourself People do it all the time in the pro-touring world to adapt various calipers to their cars.

Also pretty sure you have to run 17's minimum to clear.

[Johnny]

Also pretty sure you have to run 17's minimum to clear.

Sounds right.

[jonnymopar]

Is there a year range that the knuckles come from, or is it simply 91 and newer? I ask because there are a lot of 96+ vans in my local yard. I haven't been down there in about a month, but I don't remember seeing any of the 91-95 vans.

Also, I'm assuming that 16" Pumpers clear the 11" fronts no problem, right?

[rbryant]

Is there a year range that the knuckles come from, or is it simply 91 and newer? I ask because there are a lot of 96+ vans in my local yard. I haven't been down there in about a month, but I don't remember seeing any of the 91-95 vans.

Also, I'm assuming that 16" Pumpers clear the 11" fronts no problem, right?

I think it is only 91-95 for caravans 96 was a gen III caravan. I would stay away from the caravan spindles because they are machined for a different tierod location that reduces your turning radius. The best way to go IMO is to just get a 91-94 daytona/lebaron/shadow/spirit spindle then buy the calipers and brackets from a parts store.

16" pumpers should clear with nor problems.

-Rich

[jonnymopar]

Nice. I really want to pick up some of those pads you have Rich, but I want to be sure I'll be able to use them! These cars are nowhere to be found around here.

[cordes]

Nice. I really want to pick up some of those pads you have Rich, but I want to be sure I'll be able to use them! These cars are nowhere to be found around here.

The nice thing is that if you find the knuckles everything else can be ordered off of rockauto.com for cheap.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

K , I'm gonna jump in and ask ,
if the 91^ knuckles on the 89 control arms cause the arms to be pushed down is this a satisfactory correction for the ends of the arms moveing up when the car is lowered ?

- just so happens I have the 92-3 r/t knuckles , struts ,springs , brakes shelby z bar and an 89 K frame with the arms

and would this ease the install of the sway bar ?

[wallace]

Will the 11" brakes clear 15" wheels?

[Force Fed Mopar]

K , I'm gonna jump in and ask ,
if the 91^ knuckles on the 89 control arms cause the arms to be pushed down is this a satisfactory correction for the ends of the arms moveing up when the car is lowered ?

- just so happens I have the 92-3 r/t knuckles , struts ,springs , brakes shelby z bar and an 89 K frame with the arms

and would this ease the install of the sway bar ?

It does help with the arm angle when lowered. Should help with the sway bar also. I honestly prefer the complete 91-up suspension, swaybar is easier to install and works better, and allows a better ride. I converted my '87 Shelby Z to '89 suspension, then to '93, back to '89, then back to the '93 suspension. The ride is much better with the 91-up suspension. The only difference is the sway bar is smaller on them, but I had no problems with the handling in the mountains even so.

However, I believe the '89-90 suspension would be smoother if you do the end link conversion that Polybushings.com offers.

Will the 11" brakes clear 15" wheels?

Yes.

[jonnymopar]

K , I'm gonna jump in and ask ,
if the 91^ knuckles on the 89 control arms cause the arms to be pushed down is this a satisfactory correction for the ends of the arms moveing up when the car is lowered ?

Interesting. I'm running a 1" drop right now. How much do the arms get pushed down with the 91 knuckles?

[Reaper1]

The '91-up cast control arms move the ball joint position forward roughly 1/2-3/4" This has caused problems for some people (including myself) where the tire rubs the outside of the front wheel well. I've had the entire '91-up front suspension on 2 different Daytona's ('90 and '88) and both times I had this problem.

I'm not saying it's a bad set-up and doesn't work, just putting information out there that has been verified a few times.

For me, if I have a '90 or older car, I say just stick with the double pivot stamped arms. They aren't a bad part. If you are worried about flex of the arm, you can always copy what the vans did with the bracing underneath. Be sure to get PolyBushings for them (either type of arm). If you do this, you want to make sure that the steel insert is just slightly shorter than the width of the bushings when they are installed otherwise the arms could slide front-to-back in certain situations (not good). This part isn't exact because the factory parts aren't that exact either, so they are a little bit of a "custom" fit. Nothing a hacksaw or Dremel can't take care of.

The '91-up knuckles move the ball joint down roughly 1/2-3/4" (I'd have to go back and look, but it's in that range). There is no downside to running them at all. Better options for brakes and bolt-in wheel bearings.

[wallace]

The '91-up cast control arms move the ball joint position forward roughly 1/2-3/4" This has caused problems for some people (including myself) where the tire rubs the outside of the front wheel well. I've had the entire '91-up front suspension on 2 different Daytona's ('90 and '88) and both times I had this problem.

I'm not saying it's a bad set-up and doesn't work, just putting information out there that has been verified a few times.

For me, if I have a '90 or older car, I say just stick with the double pivot stamped arms. They aren't a bad part. If you are worried about flex of the arm, you can always copy what the vans did with the bracing underneath. Be sure to get PolyBushings for them (either type of arm). If you do this, you want to make sure that the steel insert is just slightly shorter than the width of the bushings when they are installed otherwise the arms could slide front-to-back in certain situations (not good). This part isn't exact because the factory parts aren't that exact either, so they are a little bit of a "custom" fit. Nothing a hacksaw or Dremel can't take care of.

The '91-up knuckles move the ball joint down roughly 1/2-3/4" (I'd have to go back and look, but it's in that range). There is no downside to running them at all. Better options for brakes and bolt-in wheel bearings.

Is it possible to shim the cast arms to reduce the movement of the wheels? Are the cast arms aluminum?

[csxtra]

Will the 11" brakes clear 15" wheels?

It depends on the wheel...Centurion 2s won't fit over the 11" brakes, but others will.

[wallace]

I've got two sets of aftermarket wheels so I guess I'd need to actually try to know for sure then. Thanks.

[cordes]

It depends on the wheel...Centurion 2s won't fit over the 11" brakes, but others will.

I believe that depending on which company cast the pizza wheels the calipers may need clearancing also.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I test fitted one of my 15 x 6 1/2 crab wheels on the R/T hub and brakes back when I got them - they seem to clear the caliper fine

a guy who worked at the dealer I used to go to said they fit his 90 shelby too - as winter wheels

[rbryant]

Is it possible to shim the cast arms to reduce the movement of the wheels? Are the cast arms aluminum?

They aren't aluminum.

I am told that they are cast steel (not cast iron).

-Rich