Uneven brake pad wear = bad calipers, or ???

[Force Fed Mopar]

The outer pads on the front of the Daytona are wearing faster than the inner pads. Does this mean that the calipers are sticking? Pins or bushings worn?

[rbryant]

Check how easily the caliper slides back and forth. If it slides freely it should self center. If the caliper is gunked up from drawing moisture inside it can also do weird things because the piston won't retract properly.

[Force Fed Mopar]

So basically, if they are not wearing even, there is a problem somewhere? I will check what you say next time I have a chance.

[Spr-T-23]

ok if the outsides wearing more than the inner then the slide has to be sticking and dragging. if the outer wasnt wearing at all then the slides would be completly seized

[turbovanman²]

^^^^^^ Agreed, if the outer pad is worn its usually the slider's or guides, inner pad is the piston.

[Force Fed Mopar]

In other words the caliper doesn't slide back off the rotor properly after braking?

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah, pretty much. Sounds like time for new pads so when you swap them make sure to clean and sand the guide bracket and inspect the slide bolts and replaced if pitted or damaged. Use some high temp caliper lube on the guides when you put it back together. Also, when you reset the caliper piston with the c-clamp or whatever try to feel if its tight or kinda skips on its way back in...

[Spr-T-23]

and dont reef the piston down into the bore. take it down snug, but dont force it and get it stuck. been there idk how many times with people who dont know how to do a brake job. they crush the piston into the bottom of the bore and it wont push back out. and use the inside pad to push the piston in, dont put the clamp right on the piston. i dont know if it phenolic or not so i had to say it ust to be safe.

[Force Fed Mopar]

and dont reef the piston down into the bore. take it down snug, but dont force it and get it stuck. been there idk how many times with people who dont know how to do a brake job. they crush the piston into the bottom of the bore and it wont push back out. and use the inside pad to push the piston in, dont put the clamp right on the piston. i dont know if it phenolic or not so i had to say it ust to be safe.

Yeah I'm with you on all that.

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

Yeah, pretty much. Sounds like time for new pads so when you swap them make sure to clean and sand the guide bracket and inspect the slide bolts and replaced if pitted or damaged. Use some high temp caliper lube on the guides when you put it back together. Also, when you reset the caliper piston with the c-clamp or whatever try to feel if its tight or kinda skips on its way back in...

Ok I'll do that.

[135sohc]

The lower sliding rail is probably grooved. Sh!tty design and none of the aftermarket brake pad mfgs have taken the idea up to make some stainless shims as a sacraficial wear surface for the 91-95 style brake pads yet.

[Spr-T-23]

on most of my dodges i have welded them back up and ground them back down nice and smooth, did it on my shadow all the way around, my jeep all the way around, and quite a few cars at work

---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

my grand cherokee is a 96, pad ate into it very badly, 90 shadow the rears were so bad the pads would drag

[Force Fed Mopar]

The lower sliding rail is probably grooved. Sh!tty design and none of the aftermarket brake pad mfgs have taken the idea up to make some stainless shims as a sacraficial wear surface for the 91-95 style brake pads yet.

Yeah I think some Fords use little shims like that.

[rbryant]

The lower sliding rail is probably grooved. Sh!tty design and none of the aftermarket brake pad mfgs have taken the idea up to make some stainless shims as a sacraficial wear surface for the 91-95 style brake pads yet.

The stainless shims that go between the brake pad and the caliper bracket are available from Napa, rockauto, etc for only a few bucks.

-Rich

[Force Fed Mopar]

The stainless shims that go between the brake pad and the caliper bracket are available from Napa, rockauto, etc for only a few bucks.

-Rich

For our cars specifically? Have a part number?

[135sohc]

For our cars specifically? Have a part number?

+1

I've taken a file to smooth the divots in the slider rails, polished the area clean and always go generous with the lube but a replaceable wear surface would be nice.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I took the brakes apart yesterday, no wear at all on the brackets. Slider pins all move freely. I scrubbed everything w/ a wire brush and lubed all the surfaces and the back of the pads.

How much play/squish should there be in the slider pin bushings? With the caliper bolted down tight, I can wiggle it up and down a good bit.

[bfarroo]

I'm noticing a similar issue with my shadow that I ice race. Have maybe 300-400 miles on the completely new front brake setup and the lower section of the pads are almost gone and the tops are probably 1/2 to 3/4. I cleaned everything with a wire brush when I put them together a few years ago but I'm thinking they are binding up on the top. I'm going to take them apart and sand everything down smooth grease them up and put on a new set of pads. Anything else I should be looking for? Also has anyone had any experience with the super high temp brake fluid. I may be boiling the fluid toward the end of the race as I'm on the brakes pretty had in every corner with the auto.

[Spr-T-23]

make sure your pads havent worn into the brakets, i had to weld up a few caliper brakets like that. its pretty easy if your can weld decently

[Force Fed Mopar]

I'm noticing a similar issue with my shadow that I ice race. Have maybe 300-400 miles on the completely new front brake setup and the lower section of the pads are almost gone and the tops are probably 1/2 to 3/4. I cleaned everything with a wire brush when I put them together a few years ago but I'm thinking they are binding up on the top. I'm going to take them apart and sand everything down smooth grease them up and put on a new set of pads. Anything else I should be looking for? Also has anyone had any experience with the super high temp brake fluid. I may be boiling the fluid toward the end of the race as I'm on the brakes pretty had in every corner with the auto.

Sounds to me like your rotors aren't flat or something.

[RoadWarrior222]

How much play/squish should there be in the slider pin bushings?

Hmmm little to none. Are the pins torqued down?