Originally Posted by Turbo224
Hey Turbo thanks for the input. I've decided as of yesterday to stick with black vacuum hoses and I'm actually going with black and gray for the interior. The yellow on the glove compartment was just an experiment to test different colors out.
And as for the exhaust that will change soon. Right now I have to worry about replacing my wheel hub.
Alright guys I went ahead and took off the drum and wiped off all the grease. Initially, when I took the wheel off, the locking nut was loose enough to be tightened by hand. Thinking this could be the problem, I tightened. Then my grandpa came out and looked and said "Boy, you better check those bearings anyway." So I did. Let's take a look at what I found. Cause I have no idea what it is.
This looks like mouse poop. But its hard metal.
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Here's a better look at one.
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Here is an inside look. I think the yellowish piece is the inner bearing with the dust seal inside of it. But what is that metal piece in front? Is that the outter bearing? And if so, how do I get it off? Cause it's stuck.
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And here it is with all the grease. Just for kicks.
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So does anyone know what those little pieces of metal are?
Those little pieces look like part of the outer bearing that fell apart. Look at the inner bearing and you'll see those same little pieces encased in the yellow plastic.
I'm not sure what the sleeve is, whenever I've pulled rear drums the hub has welded itself to the drum and the drum/hub come off as one piece.
To get it off I'd use a puller, something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...-set-8832.html.
Also, I'd do the other side too, if one side is that bad, the other probably has issues too.
[B]Scott[/B] 86 GLHS #408 88 Shadow ES 92 Spirit R/T 04 SRT-4
Hey that's the inner race stuck to the spindle. You may be able to heat it and get it off. You can try a puller too. May be easier to just get another spindle.
or if there are any Shelby chargers in local junk yards, just swap it over to rear disc breaks......
The locking nut was probably loose due to the bearings being toast. I would definitely check both sides.
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
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Hey all I actually bought the new outter bearings, a puller, and some grease and replaced it tonight. Rides smooth now with no problems. I'm going to drive it a little tomorrow and take it off to inspect again just to make sure. Now I can fix my attention to back under the hood.
Just inquired with a guy selling a Weber 32/36 carb. Hopefully he'll sell it to me so I can swap that in. And hopefully getting my Grant steering wheel soon. Slowly but surely. I want to get it smogged next week already.
Soooo...I drove it around the neighborhood and discovered that the clutch needs to be replaced. Kind of sucks. I'm thinking it'll be ready to go by March. But I might be off to boot camp for the Air Force before I get a chance to replace that. Oh well. We'll see what happens.
Got disqualified to go to Boot Camp for the Air Force so now I'm back and I'll be working on this beauty starting Thursday. Got any parts I might need? Let me know.
Alright so I went to start the Turismo. Didn'thave much trouble getting it started. Still a little rough, but nothing outrageous. Took it for a drive and for some reason the gears wont shift. When I shift into 3rd, it still feels like its in 2nd and still sounds like its in 2nd. I went to 4th and the same thing. Stilll felt like it was in 2nd. Any ideas? Im lost.
Check your shift linkage for wear.
Hey thanks for the response. Do I still check the shift linkage if it drives in reverse a nd 1st?Also, my Haynes manual doesn't give a very descriptive account of how to check it for wear.
I know its an old post but... L-bodies never came with rear disc brakes.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
Slowly but surely, definitely. I got a new job and am getting paid a bit more. This allows me to bring the Turismo to the shop on Wednesday morning. I've messed with it long enough but don't want to leave situations like the transmission up to myself.
I'll be messing around with interior options and the more cosmetics of the car. Hopefully I'll be able to drive it to work by the end of the year.
Odd problem now with the car. It starts and idles fine. But when I turn on the heater or A/C, the car starts dying and I have to shut the heater off to get the car idling normal again. Ideas?
Did you ever get this issue solved?
Hey Avidhunter I didn't get it resolved because I was getting caught up with work and such. However, I just worked on my friends '84 Benz and it got me motivated to work on this car. I would like to get it rolling by Spring time. My battery went dead yet again, which sucks. So I have to get a new one first. But I definitely need to figure out how to work on the shift linkage. I don't even know where that is.
I've never really messed with the L-Body shifter linkage before, but I know that it is a rod-actuated system that a lot of times the rubber bushings are bad. Here's a KC article that talks about repairing the linkage. Unfotunately it doesn't have any pictures.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...Linkage-Repair
Keep with it, the work might seem daunting at first but if you do it yourself it will be an amazing learning experience.
I can vouch for the rod ends on the stock linkage it works very well. You will not believe the shift quality it provides. There is someone on this forum that sells them ready to drop in.
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