Good or bad: synchro, pad fork picture

[135sohc]

Doing some cleaning up I came across these parts and before tossing them into the scrap can. I took some pictures to show what kind of damage happens when you dont know how to shift a transmission and the effects of not
having the plastic fork inserts between the different moving parts.

Background history: 568 was w/approx 150,000 miles. If thats true it was a VERY hard 150k. The original inserts on the 3rd side of the 3-4 fork were melted like a hot knife through butter. The dog teeth on the 3rd gear and matching selector ring showed the abuse. Like little ball peen hammers were in there beating everything to pulp.



This is what they should look like. nice and pointy so everything slides together when shifting. 4th side of the same selector ring.



and on another related note I have been dealing with a persistent oil seeping issue from the rear of the shifter housing. Removed the housing and noticed something BAD. Whether they fell off during reassembly, broke because of fatigue or got destroyed during the first few weeks of learning how to drive a transmission with effectively no synchronizer on 3rd gear I dont know and will probably never know.The 3-4 inserts were gone from sight and still are presumed KIA in the ring gear sump. Even with the missing inserts the shifting effort/feel was normal and no metallic dragging noise was heard.

Because I had to do a somewhat 'emergency' driveway teardown to replace the missing pads I replaced the original FUBAR'ed 3-4 selector ring with one from my parts donor as a last ditch attempt to keep the 3rd gear from grinding. It worked



I'm thinking about getting this fork rebuild with brazing rod to replace the stock plastic pads. I dont have a torch though or really know how to braze anyways so thats off in the future sometime maybe.

[Ondonti]

Great thread from the past. I don't think it made sense to me prior to ever having a full transmission apart.

If you didn't get your shifting exactly how you want it in your DD, I would say that the grey slime you were noticing is causing friction on all the gears so they are not freewheeling like they should. I had this happen to a HUGE extent on the Junkyard's transmission. When the case was getting eaten up by the bearing shaft sliding off, every nook and cranny was full lf aluminum paste and my gears were all seizing on the shaft once it had sat for a few years.
The 1-2 sychro assemblies got rust on them and that little bit of rust being cleaned off mean't they were now too thin to function. They get stuck on the cone of the gear instead.

Wish we had some good numbers to check things with feeler gages. Jackson posted a number for the brass and thats it. Kinda want to find that note again. We need a knowledge center article about transmission issues/repair with great pics like these!

[Lotashelbys]

Wish we had some good numbers to check things with feeler gages. Jackson posted a number for the brass and thats it. Kinda want to find that note again. We need a knowledge center article about transmission issues/repair with great pics like these!

I will get you guys a set of specs for both the 3 piece and brass rings. I will take a few pics showing how I measure them. I have a few NOS 3-4-5 brass rings to get "new" spec and I have a few low low mile 1-2s that look to me like a "new" condition synchro to get #s off of.

Also for re-sharpening teeth on the speed gears and sleeves I have been doing this for a few years now. I use a Dremel with a round stone and it works well. I have saved some ugly looking teeth on both gear and sleeve and installed a synchro that measured better than what came out and it would shift as good as one that had good looking teeth.